Panterra Cafe/Street conversion

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by alex_in_az

It's pretty low right now, having dropped the front by about 5" and the rear only has about 4" of travel on it.

If you want the traditional café look, an early 80's XR200 swingarm would probably bolt on, as it did on my Roketa. You'd only need to weld on upper shock mounts, and you'd have a twin-shock rear end.

[alex_in_az]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

Holy cow!

Is it CNC based, using a router? I'd love to see / hear more about it. Any chance you'd start a thread on it?

it's a Mendelmax 1.5 FDM (fused deposition molding) type. basically it's like a complex cake icing bag http://store.makerstoolworks.com/printers-kits/ , IIRC I paid about $1k for the kit and he built it. he runs it off a laptop and it takes .stl files outputted from any 3d cad program. there are a couple of front end software packages that parse the stl files into slices and convert them into G code.
there was virtually no info and so he had to figure out the wiring and then de-bug the system.

[Weldangrind]

That's fascinating! So, you start with a parent piece of plastic, and then fuse deposition comes off of a roll of filament? If so, that helps me to understand how the Z-axis is accomplished. What kind of thickness can be created?

[alex_in_az]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

That's fascinating! So, you start with a parent piece of plastic, and then fuse deposition comes off of a roll of filament? If so, that helps me to understand how the Z-axis is accomplished. What kind of thickness can be created?

the bed size is 8 x 11 and the Z-axis can translate 6", so in theory anything inside that. in reality if you try and print really thick sections you get heat issues that cause warping and dragging the extruder head thru the part. so we normally don't go over about 1/4" thick, dependant on the over all size of things and maintain a 60% max difference between joining walls.
for really large parts, you cut them into sections that the printer can do and then put them together like a jigsaw puzzle using 2-part epoxy or similar.

[lefty guitar]

man that is cool good job lefty guitar

[alex_in_az]

well I finally bit the bullet and ordered a new lifan 200 engine. The conversion of the 125 to 225 is not possible and last weekend I think I blew the rings on the 125 engine. I have no compression at all.
So rather than rebuild the 125 engine I figured I'd get a new 200 engine and put the 67mm jug and ported 250 head that I have on it.
I had to sell the TS185 to pay for it, but that's OK

[Weldangrind]

There will be other TS185's. I had to sell mine as well.

I'm shocked to hear that ring damage could result in zero compression. Even with a burned valve, I would expect some cranking pressure, even if it was only 25-30 psi. It will be interesting to hear about the post mortem.

Have you concluded that you need rearsets, instead of mid controls?

[alex_in_az]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

There will be other TS185's. I had to sell mine as well.

I'm shocked to hear that ring damage could result in zero compression. Even with a burned valve, I would expect some cranking pressure, even if it was only 25-30 psi. It will be interesting to hear about the post mortem.

Have you concluded that you need rearsets, instead of mid controls?

the pegs are in a pretty good place for me and I'm 5-10.
there is literally no compression and I assumed rings. the engine just stopped running as I was winding out in 2nd gear. I coasted to a halt and initially thought the CDI had vibrated itself apart losing me ignition. I pushed it home and checked the plug, then the carb and finally put my thumb over the spark plug hole and cranked it.
I didn't feel any noticeable vacuum or pressure as I turned the engine over, so I'm assuming rings. I can see the intake and exhaust valves moving as I turn the engine over.
The biggest problem I have with the bike is it's lack of power. Simply rebuilding the engine will not fix this, so its upgrade time.

[Weldangrind]

I agree, an upgrade is ideal. I'm just saying that I'll be interested to learn what you find when you tear into it (assuming you do).

[alex_in_az]

got the new engine fitted into it yesterday and took it for about 50 miles to run it in. it was mixed riding around town and out to one of the mountain parks we have here. I was trying to hold it to 6k, but wound it up a couple of times. I figure that'll be enough, these engines are meant to be abused. I drained the oil and checked the filter mesh before re-filling with fresh. There were just a couple of small shards of meta in the filter.
It has a tremendous low end, but I think it's starving at high rpms. I'm still running the keihin clone carb and feel like I could do with a 30mm mikuni set up. what are you guys running for jets in mikunis for a stock 200 engine with a UNI type filter?

regards, Alex

[katoranger]

Weld should be of help in that department. Probably some more power to be found with a better carb too.

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by alex_in_az

got the new engine fitted into it yesterday and took it for about 50 miles to run it in. it was mixed riding around town and out to one of the mountain parks we have here. I was trying to hold it to 6k, but wound it up a couple of times. I figure that'll be enough, these engines are meant to be abused. I drained the oil and checked the filter mesh before re-filling with fresh. There were just a couple of small shards of meta in the filter.
It has a tremendous low end, but I think it's starving at high rpms. I'm still running the keihin clone carb and feel like I could do with a 30mm mikuni set up. what are you guys running for jets in mikunis for a stock 200 engine with a UNI type filter?

regards, Alex

It depends on the elevation and the muffler. If it's not terribly restricted and you're near sea level, a 110 main and a 30 slow jet will do the trick. If you're more than 2000 feet, switch the slow jet to 25.

If you're really high (like Denver high), try a 100 main.

[katoranger]

Google says that Glendale is about 1150ft in elevation.

[alex_in_az]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

It depends on the elevation and the muffler. If it's not terribly restricted and you're near sea level, a 110 main and a 30 slow jet will do the trick. If you're more than 2000 feet, switch the slow jet to 25.

If you're really high (like Denver high), try a 100 main.

Thanks, I've read you can drill the jets out and the jet size for a 110 main is 1.10mm. Is the slow jet numbering convention the same?
Glendale is about 1100ft.

[Weldangrind]

Yes, the slow and main jets are in mm. I doubt that you'll find bits small enough to drill out the slow jet. I often drill out main jets.