Getting closer to broke in

Rail32 · 03-31-2017, 07:11 PM

400 miles after today's 137 mile ride . Mostly dirt roads with a few miles of trails as they are not open yet till spring thaw deadline april 15 th .
After tweaking air fuel screw I got it all dialed in , well till she is broke in that is .
53 degrees and sunny made for a great ride .

culcune · 03-31-2017, 07:20 PM

Good to see it is warmish out that way!

I am sure the miles will only be racking up from here on out!!

da4design · 03-31-2017, 09:09 PM

hey guys, what is technically the break in process...are we just looking at miles and then adjusting the valves? noob question indeed lol

culcune · 03-31-2017, 09:37 PM

You want a sooner than later second oil change (assuming you changed the oil BEFORE your first ride but after running it at idle for a few minutes to warm the oil up to drain more of the shipping crap since it gets thinner when warm. Some members have changed it at 100 miles, some 200? The third change is at 500. Don't quote me, I am writing what I remember we did waaaaaaay back in the mid to late 2000's and I have done with two of my bikes since. Maybe the consensus on the oil change process during break-in has changed? Valve adjustment can't hurt, either.

MOTOXtreme · 03-31-2017, 09:49 PM

Yup, what culcune said. Oil changes for the first bit is most critical. Its NOT unusual to see metal in the first oil change either. Take care to keep the rpm's fluctuating (not a long stretch of any one certain rpm), and not over rev the engine.... but really, just ride it and have fun. It will break in just fine.

Rail32 · 04-01-2017, 10:53 AM

33 licensed street bikes under my belt . Way too many dirt bikes to count .
I am a true gear head . What I did is warm up engine good when it first ran . Dumped that so called oil in it. Than ran 100 miles with 15-40 and will change oil again at 500. Like my KLR 650 I will be changing oil often . As thumpers abuse the crap out of the cylinder and wall. That's also why I prefer to use Shell Rotella diesel oil . Lots of zinc to lube against sheering of oil. I had zero shavings in first and second oil change , which suprised me . But I am getting clutch chatter . I may have to switch oil and see if that makes chatter go away . I hate to start tearing apart new clutch pack and springs to see if I can make it go away . Sometimes oil does the trick though. I know I have clutch springs that will fit as I never threw away anything from any bike I ever owned . Hence the 25x 50 garage with a basement under 1/3 of it

chuck · 04-01-2017, 12:06 PM

I had the same problem with the rotella synthetic diesel oil until I changed it with the valvoline 10-40 synthetic motorcycle oil.,now the clutch is operating a lot smoother.

pistolclass · 04-01-2017, 12:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuck

I had the same problem with the rotella synthetic diesel oil until I changed it with the valvoline 10-40 synthetic motorcycle oil.,now the clutch is operating a lot smoother.

yup that valvoline is good stuff. I use it in my hawk and shifting is good. If you bike shifts good with the diesel stuff stick with it. but if it is picky use the vavoline 4 stroke motorcycle oil.

BigWeld · 04-01-2017, 01:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pistolclass

yup that valvoline is good stuff. I use it in my hawk and shifting is good. If you bike shifts good with the diesel stuff stick with it. but if it is picky use the vavoline 4 stroke motorcycle oil.

But switching BACK from synthetic will make the wear surfaces act funny in the clutch plates, won't it?

Rail32 · 04-01-2017, 08:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigWeld

But switching BACK from synthetic will make the wear surfaces act funny in the clutch plates, won't it?

I would think it should not if one uses a motorcycle specific oil such as that Valvoline . I have used that oil before years ago.
Thanks Chuck , I read that from you before and was going to go that route at my 500 mile swap .

RogerWFarrier · 04-01-2017, 10:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigWeld

But switching BACK from synthetic will make the wear surfaces act funny in the clutch plates, won't it?

I was running Rotella 15W40 from the first oil change at about 150 miles until I had 1K miles on my TT which is when I switched to the Rotella Synthetic. I've always had excellent performance with the Rotella but I figured since the bike was new I'd try the Synthetic but I actually had some slipping in the clutch during the cold months until the engine warmed up so I switched back to the 15W40 and haven't had a single issue since. I put over 50K miles on my '77 Kawasaki Kz 1000 with great results from it so that's what I'll be running from now on.

BigWeld · 04-02-2017, 09:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RogerWFarrier

I was running Rotella 15W40 from the first oil change at about 150 miles until I had 1K miles on my TT which is when I switched to the Rotella Synthetic. I've always had excellent performance with the Rotella but I figured since the bike was new I'd try the Synthetic but I actually had some slipping in the clutch during the cold months until the engine warmed up so I switched back to the 15W40 and haven't had a single issue since. I put over 50K miles on my '77 Kawasaki Kz 1000 with great results from it so that's what I'll be running from now on.

That's great to hear! But I have what might sound like a dumb question: What's the advantage of going synthetic after break in? Sincere first time I hit the starter on my Brozz, it's had the Walmart Valvoline 4 stroke motorcycle oil in it, and I just assumed I'd just keep using it from now on.

CB oil education starts in 3......2.....1.....

dpl096 · 04-02-2017, 10:12 AM

Everyone has/runs their favorite ... I get Quicksilver at Wal-Mart and have used it for several years now with excellent results ...

spiritfeather · 04-02-2017, 11:32 AM

I have a Suzuki C50T and a JM Star scoot, plus several others I've owned. Rotella works great. I tried the synthetic Rotella in the C50 once, clutch slipped, went back to regular and no more problems.

Merlin · 04-02-2017, 12:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigWeld

That's great to hear! But I have what might sound like a dumb question: What's the advantage of going synthetic after break in? Sincere first time I hit the starter on my Brozz, it's had the Walmart Valvoline 4 stroke motorcycle oil in it, and I just assumed I'd just keep using it from now on.

CB oil education starts in 3......2.....1.....

Most of us go synthetic after brake in. The engine runs cooler and there is less wear but some people report clutch slippage with the Rotella synthetic and some don't. If it works for your clutch its a great way to go. If it doesn't I would still go synthetic just with a real motorcycle oil. Your engine can last longer if you run synthetic oil.

03-31-2017, 07:20 PM	#2
culcune Join Date: May 2006 Location: Yuma, Arizona Posts: 9,035	Good to see it is warmish out that way! I am sure the miles will only be racking up from here on out!! __________________ "They say that life's a carousel, spinning fast you got to ride it well..." TGB Delivery Scooter 150 TMEC 200 Enduro--carcass is sadly rotting in the backyard
	1

03-31-2017, 09:37 PM	#4
culcune Join Date: May 2006 Location: Yuma, Arizona Posts: 9,035	You want a sooner than later second oil change (assuming you changed the oil BEFORE your first ride but after running it at idle for a few minutes to warm the oil up to drain more of the shipping crap since it gets thinner when warm. Some members have changed it at 100 miles, some 200? The third change is at 500. Don't quote me, I am writing what I remember we did waaaaaaay back in the mid to late 2000's and I have done with two of my bikes since. Maybe the consensus on the oil change process during break-in has changed? Valve adjustment can't hurt, either. __________________ "They say that life's a carousel, spinning fast you got to ride it well..." TGB Delivery Scooter 150 TMEC 200 Enduro--carcass is sadly rotting in the backyard
	1

03-31-2017, 09:49 PM	#5
MOTOXtreme Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Waynesboro, Virginia Posts: 336	Yup, what culcune said. Oil changes for the first bit is most critical. Its NOT unusual to see metal in the first oil change either. Take care to keep the rpm's fluctuating (not a long stretch of any one certain rpm), and not over rev the engine.... but really, just ride it and have fun. It will break in just fine. __________________ Brian Previously owned / operated MOTO Xtreme selling American Lifan / Check out my friends at www.armattanquads.com "Imagination is more important that knowledge" Albert Einstein
	1

04-01-2017, 10:53 AM	#6
Rail32 Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Marshfield , Wi Posts: 129	33 licensed street bikes under my belt . Way too many dirt bikes to count . I am a true gear head . What I did is warm up engine good when it first ran . Dumped that so called oil in it. Than ran 100 miles with 15-40 and will change oil again at 500. Like my KLR 650 I will be changing oil often . As thumpers abuse the crap out of the cylinder and wall. That's also why I prefer to use Shell Rotella diesel oil . Lots of zinc to lube against sheering of oil. I had zero shavings in first and second oil change , which suprised me . But I am getting clutch chatter . I may have to switch oil and see if that makes chatter go away . I hate to start tearing apart new clutch pack and springs to see if I can make it go away . Sometimes oil does the trick though. I know I have clutch springs that will fit as I never threw away anything from any bike I ever owned . Hence the 25x 50 garage with a basement under 1/3 of it __________________ Living life to the fullest to avoid regrets later ,,,,or I am a complete loon ! Either way I am good
	2

04-02-2017, 11:32 AM	#14
spiritfeather Join Date: Mar 2017 Posts: 12	15W40 for me! I have a Suzuki C50T and a JM Star scoot, plus several others I've owned. Rotella works great. I tried the synthetic Rotella in the C50 once, clutch slipped, went back to regular and no more problems.
	0

03-31-2017, 09:09 PM	#3
da4design Join Date: Mar 2017 Location: texas Posts: 253	hey guys, what is technically the break in process...are we just looking at miles and then adjusting the valves? noob question indeed lol
	0

04-01-2017, 12:06 PM	#7
chuck Join Date: Sep 2015 Posts: 436	I had the same problem with the rotella synthetic diesel oil until I changed it with the valvoline 10-40 synthetic motorcycle oil.,now the clutch is operating a lot smoother.
	1