Lifan 200cc engines - Page 2

jct842 · 08-05-2016, 02:18 PM

For some one who does a lot of dirt riding ordering a spare engine would sure make a lot of sense. or even a club to get a couple for those times that nothing but a replacement will do.

Mudflap · 08-07-2016, 03:07 PM

I can confirm that the oil pump sprockets and chain used in the Lifan 163FML-2 (balance shaft CG200) are the same as those used in the Zongshen CSC TT250. I put them in today and they are identical.

I pulled the head and cylinder off the 07 Lifan engine for the first time today after 53,000 miles. Very little carbon build up, rings are free, no cylinder ridge, wrist pin still snug, no play in the big end bearing. Everything looks like it'll go another 50,000 miles. I'll pop out the valves to clean them up, put in new gaskets, check the ring end gap, then button it back up.

Mudflap · 08-07-2016, 04:38 PM

Ring end gap measured at .012". Not sure what Lifan specs are but Honda CG125 is .020". Should be at least that being a bigger bore so it's good to go.

Don't think I'll split the case since I'm not sure I can find a case gasket for the balance shaft engine, and not sure the TT250 gasket would fit.

Ariel Red Hunter · 08-07-2016, 09:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mudflap

Ring end gap measured at .012". Not sure what Lifan specs are but Honda CG125 is .020". Should be at least that being a bigger bore so it's good to go.

Don't think I'll split the case since I'm not sure I can find a case gasket for the balance shaft engine, and not sure the TT250 gasket would fit.

I don't know what spec Lifan uses either, but, almost since the beginning of recorded time, the top ring gap should be 0.005 inch per inch of cylinder bore, 0.004 for the next lower ring, and a little less yet for the oil control ring. It is a good idea to look at the ring lands of the piston to make sure there are no drag marks on there. Use a magnifying glass. If any up and down marks show, gently file them away with a very fine file. If, when you look carefully at the outside of the ring, there are no gray or brown spots, and it meets the criteria above, there is no need to replace them.

Mudflap · 08-08-2016, 09:50 AM

I've been asked about the centrifugal oil filter and what holds it in place so here is a pic. The washer is a flattened cone shaped spring washer with one side stamped "out side". It's the same on all CG engines I've worked on. BTW on the balance shaft engines the nut on the balance shaft gear is a left hand thread.

Weldangrind · 08-08-2016, 12:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mudflap

I can confirm that the oil pump sprockets and chain used in the Lifan 163FML-2 (balance shaft CG200) are the same as those used in the Zongshen CSC TT250. I put them in today and they are identical.

I pulled the head and cylinder off the 07 Lifan engine for the first time today after 53,000 miles. Very little carbon build up, rings are free, no cylinder ridge, wrist pin still snug, no play in the big end bearing. Everything looks like it'll go another 50,000 miles. I'll pop out the valves to clean them up, put in new gaskets, check the ring end gap, then button it back up.

Awesome! IIRC, you've been on the hunt for those parts for some time.

Weldangrind · 08-08-2016, 12:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mudflap

Don't think I'll split the case since I'm not sure I can find a case gasket for the balance shaft engine, and not sure the TT250 gasket would fit.

You could always use Three Bond. Also, if you split the case, you'd have an opportunity to see if an XR200R six speed would drop in.

Ariel Red Hunter · 08-08-2016, 12:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mudflap

I've been asked about the centrifugal oil filter and what holds it in place so here is a pic. The washer is a flattened cone shaped spring washer with one side stamped "out side". It's the same on all CG engines I've worked on. BTW on the balance shaft engines the nut on the balance shaft gear is a left hand thread.

That cone shaped spring steel washer is called a Belleville Washer.

GeneralTso · 10-26-2016, 10:09 AM

Mudflap, you may be able to help me with an issue. I have the same engine but having a heck of a time trying to get the header to seal to the block on my engine, always has a exhaust leak. I've been on a bunch of sites seeing various parts lists for the header but was wondering what you had on yours.

At this point I have just the pipe and a Honda copper compression exhaust seal. Some parts list show a two part washer pressing aginst the seal, some show just the exhaust gasket. Just trying to figure out the best combination and making sure I'm not missing something.

Mudflap · 10-26-2016, 11:43 AM

I use the stock header pipe on the Lifan GY5 as well as the Roketa and Taotao quad. They all use the standard copper gasket except for the Lifan where I used a gasket made from a piece of exhaust gasket material from the auto parts store. All seal fine. Any chance you have an old gasket stuck in there with the new one, causing it to leak?

Quote:

Originally Posted by GeneralTso

Mudflap, you may be able to help me with an issue. I have the same engine but having a heck of a time trying to get the header to seal to the block on my engine, always has a exhaust leak. I've been on a bunch of sites seeing various parts lists for the header but was wondering what you had on yours.

At this point I have just the pipe and a Honda copper compression exhaust seal. Some parts list show a two part washer pressing aginst the seal, some show just the exhaust gasket. Just trying to figure out the best combination and making sure I'm not missing something.

Azhule · 10-26-2016, 12:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GeneralTso

Mudflap, you may be able to help me with an issue. I have the same engine but having a heck of a time trying to get the header to seal to the block on my engine, always has a exhaust leak. I've been on a bunch of sites seeing various parts lists for the header but was wondering what you had on yours.

At this point I have just the pipe and a Honda copper compression exhaust seal. Some parts list show a two part washer pressing aginst the seal, some show just the exhaust gasket. Just trying to figure out the best combination and making sure I'm not missing something.

Did you forget to add a dab of this around the header pipe before assembling, and of course "let it set" for 24 or so hours ?

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-8187...dp/B0002UEOPA/

GeneralTso · 10-26-2016, 12:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Azhule

Did you forget to add a dab of this around the header pipe before assembling, and of course "let it set" for 24 or so hours ?

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-8187...dp/B0002UEOPA/

Forget? I didn't even think to use anything like that, never had to with my other bikes but I guess this is a CB world now

.

So does it goes between the head pipe and the gasket or the gasket and the exhaust port?

Azhule · 10-26-2016, 01:53 PM

I usually just do a little "ring" all the way around the outside of the pipe that will be sliding into the next peace, most times not even 1/4" long and as thin as my gloved up fingers can make.

Also make sure your have any and all older gaskets/materials OFF/Out of the area to be sealed, it's sometimes easy to double stack copper crush gaskets and not realize it I cant remember if you found a gasket when you started taking things apart and rebuilding ?? ... oh, what did you torque those nuts/bolts to (I forget if you even had nuts/bolts to torque on that project bike or if it was "custom spring loaded")?

GeneralTso · 10-26-2016, 02:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Azhule

I usually just do a little "ring" all the way around the outside of the pipe that will be sliding into the next peace, most times not even 1/4" long and as thin as my gloved up fingers can make.

Also make sure your have any and all older gaskets/materials OFF/Out of the area to be sealed, it's sometimes easy to double stack copper crush gaskets and not realize it I cant remember if you found a gasket when you started taking things apart and rebuilding ?? ... oh, what did you torque those nuts/bolts to (I forget if you even had nuts/bolts to torque on that project bike or if it was "custom spring loaded")?

I have the head all cleaned out good and have those little cap bolts as seen in mudflap's pic. But no idea how hard to torque them and don't want to snap the studs, they feel delicate.

Its just so annoying, never have had this problem getting a pipe to seat which had me thinking I was missing a piece or something.

Mudflap · 10-26-2016, 06:11 PM

I torque the exhaust nuts to 15 ft lb, going by the Honda factory CG125 service manual. Also it's important to install the exhaust system in the right order. Install header first, snug exhaust nuts finger tight to make sure the flange is seated squarely on the gasket. Then install the rest of the system loosly, torque the exhaust nuts, then tighten the rest of the exhaust mounting bolts.

10-26-2016, 10:09 AM	#24
GeneralTso Join Date: May 2016 Location: Middle TN Posts: 312	Mudflap, you may be able to help me with an issue. I have the same engine but having a heck of a time trying to get the header to seal to the block on my engine, always has a exhaust leak. I've been on a bunch of sites seeing various parts lists for the header but was wondering what you had on yours. At this point I have just the pipe and a Honda copper compression exhaust seal. Some parts list show a two part washer pressing aginst the seal, some show just the exhaust gasket. Just trying to figure out the best combination and making sure I'm not missing something. __________________ 2005 Kazuma Cheetah 200 (Swamp Thing)
	0

10-26-2016, 01:53 PM	#28
Azhule Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: CO Posts: 1,525	I usually just do a little "ring" all the way around the outside of the pipe that will be sliding into the next peace, most times not even 1/4" long and as thin as my gloved up fingers can make. Also make sure your have any and all older gaskets/materials OFF/Out of the area to be sealed, it's sometimes easy to double stack copper crush gaskets and not realize it I cant remember if you found a gasket when you started taking things apart and rebuilding ?? ... oh, what did you torque those nuts/bolts to (I forget if you even had nuts/bolts to torque on that project bike or if it was "custom spring loaded")? __________________ "Think as you like... but this self proclaimed Professor is always right" - Buckshot "You never know what someone is hiding beneath their smile..." - NinjaTom - R.I.P.
	0

08-05-2016, 02:18 PM	#16
jct842 Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: arkansas Posts: 297	For some one who does a lot of dirt riding ordering a spare engine would sure make a lot of sense. or even a club to get a couple for those times that nothing but a replacement will do.
	0

08-07-2016, 03:07 PM	#17
Mudflap Join Date: Sep 2014 Posts: 1,870	I can confirm that the oil pump sprockets and chain used in the Lifan 163FML-2 (balance shaft CG200) are the same as those used in the Zongshen CSC TT250. I put them in today and they are identical. I pulled the head and cylinder off the 07 Lifan engine for the first time today after 53,000 miles. Very little carbon build up, rings are free, no cylinder ridge, wrist pin still snug, no play in the big end bearing. Everything looks like it'll go another 50,000 miles. I'll pop out the valves to clean them up, put in new gaskets, check the ring end gap, then button it back up.
	0

08-07-2016, 04:38 PM	#18
Mudflap Join Date: Sep 2014 Posts: 1,870	Ring end gap measured at .012". Not sure what Lifan specs are but Honda CG125 is .020". Should be at least that being a bigger bore so it's good to go. Don't think I'll split the case since I'm not sure I can find a case gasket for the balance shaft engine, and not sure the TT250 gasket would fit.
	0

08-08-2016, 09:50 AM	#20
Mudflap Join Date: Sep 2014 Posts: 1,870	I've been asked about the centrifugal oil filter and what holds it in place so here is a pic. The washer is a flattened cone shaped spring washer with one side stamped "out side". It's the same on all CG engines I've worked on. BTW on the balance shaft engines the nut on the balance shaft gear is a left hand thread.
	0

10-26-2016, 06:11 PM	#30
Mudflap Join Date: Sep 2014 Posts: 1,870	I torque the exhaust nuts to 15 ft lb, going by the Honda factory CG125 service manual. Also it's important to install the exhaust system in the right order. Install header first, snug exhaust nuts finger tight to make sure the flange is seated squarely on the gasket. Then install the rest of the system loosly, torque the exhaust nuts, then tighten the rest of the exhaust mounting bolts.
	1