Swing arm is loose

Trailbikeryder · 04-01-2014, 04:37 PM

Hi Guys.
I put a video of my swing arm. It's a little loose. I don't know if this is normal though. Can you look at the video and tell me what you think? Thanks.

Weldangrind · 04-02-2014, 12:18 AM

I would say that there should be no lateral play, yet I'm sure that it's quite common. you mentioned that the swingarm bolt is tight, but did you actually hold the head of the bolt while trying to turn the nut? Also, try disconnecting the shock, so that you can be sure the swingarm moves up and down smoothly with no lateral play when tight.

Trailbikeryder · 04-02-2014, 04:20 PM

Yes I did hold on to the head. The play seems to be in between the frame though. Ok thanks, I will try that with the Shock. Didn't have any time to work on the bike today. I'll keep you posted.

Trailbikeryder · 04-03-2014, 04:16 PM

So tonight I took the swing arm out. There was absolutely no play in the bearings. In the space between the frame and the swing arm also no play. The axel holding the swing arm in 15mm thick. At the spot of the threading where screw bolts on its naturally smaller with 14 millimeters. So If the screw is tight enough then it should have any play anymore. On the second video you can see that.
It wasn't a bad idea to take it apart anyway because the swing arm and axel had absolutely no grease on them.

SpudRider · 04-03-2014, 04:25 PM

You did an excellent job analyzing the situation; I agree with your conclusion.

Ideally, you should try to fix this problem. Perhaps you can enlarge the existing hole with a drill, and find a bushing which makes a tight fit between the bolt and the larger hole. You could also weld a steel plate over the existing hole, and drill a new, smaller hole, which is the correct size for the bolt.

Weldangrind · 04-04-2014, 01:29 AM

I agree. I would seek out a bronze bushing that has an ID that matches your swingarm bolt, and then drill out the steel to match the bushing OD. One type of bushing that would be suitable looks like a top hat. You could place the large diameter of the top hat outside of the frame, and then cut the small diameter down until it is the same thickness as the steel of the frame.

Trailbikeryder · 04-16-2014, 07:16 PM

So now I'm done and wanted to give you finishing report.
I took everything apart, cleaned everything and greased the swing arm. It had almost no grease in it. Tightened the axel nut with torque wrench to 62 Nm (same on front and back wheel nut). Didn't have to do anything special. It was just not tight enough. I'm glad it took the swing arm out though because it needed grease. It has no play what so ever anymore.I'm very happy!

Eric,
Trailbikeryder

zingshoen · 04-16-2014, 07:26 PM

good result! are you planning to grease the steering?

Trailbikeryder · 04-16-2014, 07:36 PM

That might be a good Idea after this. I've never done this before though. Any special tips?

zingshoen · 04-16-2014, 08:05 PM

I still have to do this on my Zong. Here we have this thread:

http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=7887

But I may have missed sth. Over at Thumper Talk it s discussed as an essential improvement of Suzukis "next to no grease" practice. Got to do the Suzuki too sometime :-)

SpudRider · 04-17-2014, 12:16 AM

Thanks for posting the update. I'm glad you got the problem fixed, Eric.

04-01-2014, 04:37 PM	#1
Trailbikeryder Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Germany Posts: 231	Swing arm is loose Hi Guys. I put a video of my swing arm. It's a little loose. I don't know if this is normal though. Can you look at the video and tell me what you think? Thanks. __________________ My CB : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZbZ8q-grmOQ 2012 Skyteam V-Raptor 250 2011 Yamaha Tenere XT 660Z abs 1996 Kawasaki Vulcan 800 Classic 1989 Kawasaki GPZ 500
	0

04-02-2014, 12:18 AM	#2
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	I would say that there should be no lateral play, yet I'm sure that it's quite common. you mentioned that the swingarm bolt is tight, but did you actually hold the head of the bolt while trying to turn the nut? Also, try disconnecting the shock, so that you can be sure the swingarm moves up and down smoothly with no lateral play when tight. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

04-02-2014, 04:20 PM	#3
Trailbikeryder Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Germany Posts: 231	Yes I did hold on to the head. The play seems to be in between the frame though. Ok thanks, I will try that with the Shock. Didn't have any time to work on the bike today. I'll keep you posted. __________________ My CB : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZbZ8q-grmOQ 2012 Skyteam V-Raptor 250 2011 Yamaha Tenere XT 660Z abs 1996 Kawasaki Vulcan 800 Classic 1989 Kawasaki GPZ 500
	0

04-03-2014, 04:16 PM	#4
Trailbikeryder Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Germany Posts: 231	So tonight I took the swing arm out. There was absolutely no play in the bearings. In the space between the frame and the swing arm also no play. The axel holding the swing arm in 15mm thick. At the spot of the threading where screw bolts on its naturally smaller with 14 millimeters. So If the screw is tight enough then it should have any play anymore. On the second video you can see that. It wasn't a bad idea to take it apart anyway because the swing arm and axel had absolutely no grease on them. __________________ My CB : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZbZ8q-grmOQ 2012 Skyteam V-Raptor 250 2011 Yamaha Tenere XT 660Z abs 1996 Kawasaki Vulcan 800 Classic 1989 Kawasaki GPZ 500
	0

04-03-2014, 04:25 PM	#5
SpudRider Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Idaho Posts: 25,054	You did an excellent job analyzing the situation; I agree with your conclusion. Ideally, you should try to fix this problem. Perhaps you can enlarge the existing hole with a drill, and find a bushing which makes a tight fit between the bolt and the larger hole. You could also weld a steel plate over the existing hole, and drill a new, smaller hole, which is the correct size for the bolt. __________________ Spud "Never argue with an idiot. He will drag you down to his level, and beat you with experience." Mark Twain 2015 Zongshen ZS250GY-3 (RX3) 2006 Zongshen ZS200GY-2 (Sierra 200) 2005 Honda XR650L 2004 Honda CRF250X 1998 Kawasaki KDX220 Mods made to my Zongshen ZS200GY-2: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=6894
	0

04-04-2014, 01:29 AM	#6
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	I agree. I would seek out a bronze bushing that has an ID that matches your swingarm bolt, and then drill out the steel to match the bushing OD. One type of bushing that would be suitable looks like a top hat. You could place the large diameter of the top hat outside of the frame, and then cut the small diameter down until it is the same thickness as the steel of the frame. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

04-16-2014, 07:16 PM	#7
Trailbikeryder Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Germany Posts: 231	So now I'm done and wanted to give you finishing report. I took everything apart, cleaned everything and greased the swing arm. It had almost no grease in it. Tightened the axel nut with torque wrench to 62 Nm (same on front and back wheel nut). Didn't have to do anything special. It was just not tight enough. I'm glad it took the swing arm out though because it needed grease. It has no play what so ever anymore.I'm very happy! Eric, Trailbikeryder __________________ My CB : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZbZ8q-grmOQ 2012 Skyteam V-Raptor 250 2011 Yamaha Tenere XT 660Z abs 1996 Kawasaki Vulcan 800 Classic 1989 Kawasaki GPZ 500
	0

04-16-2014, 07:26 PM	#8
zingshoen Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Brisbane, Queensland, Australia Posts: 648	good result! are you planning to grease the steering? __________________ 1971 Garelli Gulp 50cc with open ports and 16 mm Bing Carbie + 1980 Honda XL 223 ZS + 2007 Zongshen LZX200G + DR400SM
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04-16-2014, 07:36 PM	#9
Trailbikeryder Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Germany Posts: 231	That might be a good Idea after this. I've never done this before though. Any special tips? __________________ My CB : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZbZ8q-grmOQ 2012 Skyteam V-Raptor 250 2011 Yamaha Tenere XT 660Z abs 1996 Kawasaki Vulcan 800 Classic 1989 Kawasaki GPZ 500
	0

04-16-2014, 08:05 PM	#10
zingshoen Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Brisbane, Queensland, Australia Posts: 648	I still have to do this on my Zong. Here we have this thread: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=7887 But I may have missed sth. Over at Thumper Talk it s discussed as an essential improvement of Suzukis "next to no grease" practice. Got to do the Suzuki too sometime :-) __________________ 1971 Garelli Gulp 50cc with open ports and 16 mm Bing Carbie + 1980 Honda XL 223 ZS + 2007 Zongshen LZX200G + DR400SM
	0

04-17-2014, 12:16 AM	#11
SpudRider Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Idaho Posts: 25,054	Thanks for posting the update. I'm glad you got the problem fixed, Eric. __________________ Spud "Never argue with an idiot. He will drag you down to his level, and beat you with experience." Mark Twain 2015 Zongshen ZS250GY-3 (RX3) 2006 Zongshen ZS200GY-2 (Sierra 200) 2005 Honda XR650L 2004 Honda CRF250X 1998 Kawasaki KDX220 Mods made to my Zongshen ZS200GY-2: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=6894
	0