Enforcer 6hp possible?

[mcwhorter-enforcer]

Ok so I have been looking around and here is what I want.

Bashan Enforcer...supposidly 15.6 HP...do you guys think adding 7hp is possible and I would like to shed 15lbs.

Lets hear your thoughts!!

[OUTERLIMITS]

Originally Posted by mcwhorter-enforcer

Ok so I have been looking around and here is what I want.

Bashan Enforcer...supposidly 15.6 HP...do you guys think adding 7hp is possible and I would like to shed 15lbs.

Lets hear your thoughts!!

Doubtful you'll find another 45% in hp, but there are likely lots of things you can do to lose the weight. Biggest weight loss would come from losing things you don't need. If it were me and I didn't mind spending some dollars, I would lose the passenger pegs and stock mirrors. The whole exhaust would be replaced (getting rid of the cat), lighter headlight and tail light assemblies, lithium battery,lose the rack grab handles, aluminum bars, swap the turn signals for the tiny ones, lose the entire air box for a pod filter, lighter tires, take out the stock gauge cluster and put in a vapor or something similar, ditch the chain guard and countershaft cover if possible. At this point I'd question what the heck I just did to my bike and why I just spent another 25% over the bike's cost for a minimal weight reduction on an overweight bike. Seriously, just enjoy the bike for what it is. At that price point and owner support here, it's hard to go wrong.

[mcwhorter-enforcer]

Originally Posted by OUTERLIMITS

Doubtful you'll find another 45% in hp, but there are likely lots of things you can do to lose the weight. Biggest weight loss would come from losing things you don't need. If it were me and I didn't mind spending some dollars, I would lose the passenger pegs and stock mirrors. The whole exhaust would be replaced (getting rid of the cat), lighter headlight and tail light assemblies, lithium battery,lose the rack grab handles, aluminum bars, swap the turn signals for the tiny ones, lose the entire air box for a pod filter, lighter tires, take out the stock gauge cluster and put in a vapor or something similar, ditch the chain guard and countershaft cover if possible. At this point I'd question what the heck I just did to my bike and why I just spent another 25% over the bike's cost for a minimal weight reduction on an overweight bike. Seriously, just enjoy the bike for what it is. At that price point and owner support here, it's hard to go wrong.

Well I ask because the CRF250L has the same hp starting out. I know we do not hove the egk option but I am curious. I love the boke, dont get me wrong...just wondering about the HP gain on exhaust airbox mod and jetting. seems like that would be a good 7 just in that.

[Megadan]

Yes, it is very possible. I have seen proof of a CG250 engine making 18whp on a bike, which you could roughly translate to 20 crank hp. What it requires is head work. the ports on these heads suck, and I have a whole thread with pictures showing just how much they suck. The engine in question I am referencing also has a decked head though, which bumped the compression up almost a full point. While I do plan on porting the head, I do not plan on decking the head to that extreme. I will aim for maybe an extra half a point at most. More compression = more heat and stress = reduced life.

This is in fact my goal over winter with my Hawk. I already have an extra head, I just need to get around to doing the port work to it and then taking the time to install it.
The cylinder heads themselves are actually not that expensive. I got a complete assembly for $50, and I regularly find them around 50-60 bucks.

The expensive part, if you can't do the port work yourself, would be having a shop do the work. Thankfully, since it's a single cylinder 2 valve head, they cost won't be too ridiculous. You could probably call around and get quotes. Likely cost would be around $150-250 depending on what you want done.

With a tuned carb, free flowing exhaust and intake, somewhere around 17-18 crank hp is realistic for a CG250 engine. If 20hp is your goal, the last 2-3hp has to be made up on the cylinder head.

[pistolclass]

Originally Posted by mcwhorter-enforcer

Well I ask because the CRF250L has the same hp starting out. I know we do not hove the egk option but I am curious. I love the boke, dont get me wrong...just wondering about the HP gain on exhaust airbox mod and jetting. seems like that would be a good 7 just in that.

The card is a tru3 250cc which helps the hp.

[BlackBike]

Megadan...i see what ya dun there, (18whp ..."whopping horsepower")

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by BlackBike

Megadan...i see what ya dun there, (18whp ..."whopping horsepower")

I prefer to call it whoopin' horspower!

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by Megadan

Yes, it is very possible. I have seen proof of a CG250 engine making 18whp on a bike, which you could roughly translate to 20 crank hp. What it requires is head work. the ports on these heads suck, and I have a whole thread with pictures showing just how much they suck. The engine in question I am referencing also has a decked head though, which bumped the compression up almost a full point. While I do plan on porting the head, I do not plan on decking the head to that extreme. I will aim for maybe an extra half a point at most. More compression = more heat and stress = reduced life.

This is in fact my goal over winter with my Hawk. I already have an extra head, I just need to get around to doing the port work to it and then taking the time to install it.
The cylinder heads themselves are actually not that expensive. I got a complete assembly for $50, and I regularly find them around 50-60 bucks.

The expensive part, if you can't do the port work yourself, would be having a shop do the work. Thankfully, since it's a single cylinder 2 valve head, they cost won't be too ridiculous. You could probably call around and get quotes. Likely cost would be around $150-250 depending on what you want done.

With a tuned carb, free flowing exhaust and intake, somewhere around 17-18 crank hp is realistic for a CG250 engine. If 20hp is your goal, the last 2-3hp has to be made up on the cylinder head.

Have you got links to your description of the ports? Somehow I missed them, and I would like to see them. The other part of the whole inlet tract issue, is the valves. And the guides. We may have to find better formed valves in order to smooth the flow entering the combustion chamber. That is why I flowed the head with the valves in. And checked the flow at every 1/16th of lift. And I question the quality of the valve springs, as well. But that is more of a reliability issue...ARH

[2LZ]

I haven't seen any dyno numbers on a CG motor but I'd imagine that with simple mods (breather, carb and jetting and pipe), expect about 3??? Porting may help but I doubt with the stock super-mild cam. No reason to open holes if the cam timing will still only allow so much to enter. These things were built for longevity far more than anything. Either way, the standard mods make 'em pretty spunky. These things are much like a 1 cylinder Panhead.

On the QLink, a solid 5 is gained by jetting and muffler. The difference between a pushrod and OHC motor.

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by 2LZ

I haven't seen any dyno numbers on a CG motor but I'd imagine that with simple mods (breather, carb and jetting and pipe), expect about 3??? Porting may help but I doubt with the stock super-mild cam. No reason to open holes if the cam timing will still only allow so much to enter. These things were built for longevity far more than anything. Either way, the standard mods make 'em pretty spunky. These things are much like a 1 cylinder Panhead.

On the QLink, a solid 5 is gained by jetting and muffler. The difference between a pushrod and OHC motor.

I would like to disagree. My experience (and I'm not alone in this) is, the better the porting, the milder the cam you can run. The poorer the porting, the more radical the cam to get decent performance...ARH

[2LZ]

Originally Posted by Ariel Red Hunter

I would like to disagree. My experience (and I'm not alone in this) is, the better the porting, the milder the cam you can run. The poorer the porting, the more radical the cam to get decent performance...ARH

My particular experience is that with a super mild cam, opening the ports (more than just a clean up) reduces the venture and vacuum action created by the tighter porting, creating less cavitation and atomization. One of my old Harley's was a perfect example. I ported it and put a larger carb on it with pipes but left the cam alone. Did it run a little better? Maybe,...once it was running. Kick starting it became a bear. Not enough atomization and it would drown the plug quickly. I cammed it and problem solved. Then it gave me second gear wheelies.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by Ariel Red Hunter

Have you got links to your description of the ports? Somehow I missed them, and I would like to see them.

http://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=19200

Not the greatest pictures, and I can't show the area around the valves to well until I decide to disassemble it more, but believe me... these ports leave a lot to be desired. The exhaust port is especially terrible. The reduction in cross section at the valve guides is pretty bad and can easily be cleaned up.

Just to toss in my own head porting experience. A better flowing head on a weaker cam profile will always make more, and better power, than a poor head with a radical cam as long as intake velocity is maintained.

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by 2LZ

My particular experience is that with a super mild cam, opening the ports (more than just a clean up) reduces the venture and vacuum action created by the tighter porting, creating less cavitation and atomization. One of my old Harley's was a perfect example. I ported it and put a larger carb on it with pipes but left the cam alone. Did it run a little better? Maybe,...once it was running. Kick starting it became a bear. Not enough atomization and it would drown the plug quickly. I cammed it and problem solved. Then it gave me second gear wheelies.

I don't know if the nwerH-D's are any better, but the old ones had terrible ports from the factory...ARH

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by Megadan

http://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=19200

Not the greatest pictures, and I can't show the area around the valves to well until I decide to disassemble it more, but believe me... these ports leave a lot to be desired. The exhaust port is especially terrible. The reduction in cross section at the valve guides is pretty bad and can easily be cleaned up.

Just to toss in my own head porting experience. A better flowing head on a weaker cam profile will always make more, and better power, than a poor head with a radical cam as long as intake velocity is maintained.

I'd been told that by an Indian tuner many years ago. Then I found it out for sure after I owned an Iron Head 1000cc Sportster. Bad ports. Even with PP cams it couldn't breathe at anything over 4500 rpm. I was told it would cost $500, or so to grind out those ports. And $500 was not chump change back in the seventies...ARH

[2LZ]

Originally Posted by Ariel Red Hunter

I'd been told that by an Indian tuner many years ago. Then I found it out for sure after I owned an Iron Head 1000cc Sportster. Bad ports. Even with PP cams it couldn't breathe at anything over 4500 rpm. I was told it would cost $500, or so to grind out those ports. And $500 was not chump change back in the seventies...ARH

While not the greatest, my '74 Ironhead ports weren't that terrible compared to others I ported back then. They also cleaned up very nicely and had enough metal to relieve in all the proper places. I never ported anything back then that was machined very well or even remotely close to today's standards. It wasn't just HD. It was just the tech at the time.

Back to point, if porting is on the menu, as you know, it needs to be balanced all the way through with breather, carb, jetting, cam and exhaust to really be effective. I'd LOVE to find a cam grinder who'd like to play with a CG cam! :-)