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Old 09-19-2017, 07:05 PM   #1
rd1959   rd1959 is offline
 
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Can anything be done about the clutch engagement point?

I've had my RX3 on the road for a couple weeks now and I love everything about it except for the very narrow clutch engagement point. Is there any way to modify the clutch to broaden the engagement point? Would different clutch plates or maybe a longer or shorter push rod make a difference?
BTW, I now know why so many of you have gone to the 13 tooth countershaft sprocket. Clutch slipping with the stock CS is a little excessive. I was thinking of trying a 46 tooth rear sprocket with the 14 tooth CS. I found a chart (that I can't find now) where you could enter different sprocket sizes and calculate the final drive ratio. and it showed a 13/44 setup would be, I think, 3.38 and a 14/46 was 3.22. The stock 14/44 final ratio was ,I think, 3.00. If I went to the 14/46 would that be enough to ease the clutch slipping? Thanks.


 
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Old 09-19-2017, 08:33 PM   #2
Jay In Milpitas   Jay In Milpitas is offline
 
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The push rod length is not something you want to mess with.

If adjusting the cable free play doesn't move the engagement point to a place you like, then mechanical alteration is called for. A broader engagement area would call for a longer arm on the throw-out arm (on top of the engine). It's something that can be done, if you have the equipment and skill.

I only use two fingers on the lever as the pull is quite light. Not that it makes any difference in engagement.
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Old 09-19-2017, 08:46 PM   #3
pyoungbl   pyoungbl is offline
 
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rd, I just slip the clutch as needed. Yes, that seems like abuse but the clutch seems to deal with that. At the same time, I change the oil pretty frequently and I'm sure I'm flushing out lots of clutch crap. The clutch is made up of drive and driven plates. They are $16.50 and $3.90 each...X5. As a worst case you are looking at $120 more or less. Even if you have to replace the clutch plates it's really not a big deal. With that said, I cannot recall anyone having to do that, even the folks with 20-30K miles on their bikes seem to be on the original clutch plates. Spud and others, feel free to chime in to correct me.


 
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Old 09-19-2017, 08:56 PM   #4
Juanro   Juanro is offline
 
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Hi,

You can try something like this, wich will both lighten the clutch pull and widen the lever action:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stunt-Clutch...-/322461176400

Juanro


 
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Old 09-20-2017, 04:25 PM   #5
Huck369   Huck369 is offline
 
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I Shortened the arm on top of the motor on mine to increase the engagement range, works better, I only shortened it about 3/32"....Cut a little out, and welded it back together.
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Old 09-20-2017, 08:01 PM   #6
rd1959   rd1959 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huck369 View Post
I Shortened the arm on top of the motor on mine to increase the engagement range, works better, I only shortened it about 3/32"....Cut a little out, and welded it back together.
Thanks. Did it increase clutch pull effort at all? Maybe I should suggest this to CSC to pass along to Zongshen for future models.


 
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Old 09-20-2017, 08:48 PM   #7
Inroads   Inroads is offline
 
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Yes it will increase pull to shorten arm but could be compensated with those
Adjustable levers and some thorough cable lubing.


 
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Old 09-21-2017, 08:46 PM   #8
vttrailboss   vttrailboss is offline
 
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For the easy install and low price, I'd try the 13 tooth front sprocket first. It made a big difference on not only clutch engagement, but gave me better power. Plus it didn't screw with the top end much (I still can cruise at 70+mph at 8-8500rpm all day). It definitely helped in the mountains!

I swapped it out at 1000 miles. About 2k now.
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Old 09-23-2017, 11:49 AM   #9
rd1959   rd1959 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vttrailboss View Post
For the easy install and low price, I'd try the 13 tooth front sprocket first. It made a big difference on not only clutch engagement, but gave me better power. Plus it didn't screw with the top end much (I still can cruise at 70+mph at 8-8500rpm all day). It definitely helped in the mountains!

I swapped it out at 1000 miles. About 2k now.
Changing the front sprocket is something I'm considering. I'm also thinking of keeping the stock front sprocket and changing the rear to a 46. I found a final gear ratio calculator (can't find it now, though) that calculated a 13/44 setup as, I think 3.38 and the 14/46 as 3.22. Doesn't seem like a lot of difference between the two but, I don't know very much about changing final drive ratios.


 
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Old 09-23-2017, 11:57 AM   #10
rd1959   rd1959 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pyoungbl View Post
rd, I just slip the clutch as needed. Yes, that seems like abuse but the clutch seems to deal with that. At the same time, I change the oil pretty frequently and I'm sure I'm flushing out lots of clutch crap. The clutch is made up of drive and driven plates. They are $16.50 and $3.90 each...X5. As a worst case you are looking at $120 more or less. Even if you have to replace the clutch plates it's really not a big deal. With that said, I cannot recall anyone having to do that, even the folks with 20-30K miles on their bikes seem to be on the original clutch plates. Spud and others, feel free to chime in to correct me.
Thanks. It may end up being something I'll have to learn to deal with. The only other bike I've ridden That I had to slip the clutch this much was a '91 Honda CR125 motocross bike.


 
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Old 10-03-2017, 10:01 PM   #11
Huck369   Huck369 is offline
 
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Originally Posted by rd1959 View Post
Thanks. Did it increase clutch pull effort at all? Maybe I should suggest this to CSC to pass along to Zongshen for future models.
It did not increase the pull enough to notice, and I talked with Gerry at CSC about it when I first did it over a year ago
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