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Old 10-21-2015, 12:51 AM   #31
SpudRider   SpudRider is offline
 
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Welcome, Corey. We are glad you joined us.

Please do start a new thread on your beautiful green Hawk.
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2015 Zongshen ZS250GY-3 (RX3)
2006 Zongshen ZS200GY-2 (Sierra 200)
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Mods made to my Zongshen ZS200GY-2: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=6894


 
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Old 08-26-2016, 12:17 PM   #32
darin76   darin76 is offline
 
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The 250cc hawk is a good bike I bought one about 6 months ago from Power Dirt Bikes


 
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Old 08-26-2016, 04:55 PM   #33
Merlin   Merlin is offline
 
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sub Dude View Post
Thanks for all the information and suggestions. I just ordered a new Mikuni carb and NGK plug today. I will let you know how it works out.
Some one just revived this old thread so Iam wondering if you ever got it worked out?


 
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Old 04-18-2017, 02:32 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by culcune View Post
I don't know if you are a 'newbie' or not, but the choke lever on the carb should be all the way down. There are mornings, when the weather is cool (and when I first got my bike), I put the lever to half way to get her started and warming up, get the bike loaded with my lunch and such, start riding, and hit some nasty dead spots, and realize I had not put the choke back down. The ironic thing is, I wasn't even a newbie to my bike, a TMEC 200, since I had just owned an older model and should have known better!!

If that is not the case, it sounds like your bike could use some carb timing. As well, these bikes often come with awfully big rear sprockets which should be changed out, pronto. Most likely, you have a wheel which is a clone of a '80 Honda XR185 which makes sprocket shopping quite easy (and low cost!!).

Moderator 'Weldandgrind' has links to a continuous ebay seller who has Chinese Mikuni carbs...the advantage of changing out your carb to a Mikuni is the fact that the jets can be purchased most anywhere, whereas your stock carb is probably the decent (decent most of the time) Kiehen carb (which states PZ30 on it, and 'Standard of Japan') These are decent as stock carbs (I have not yet upgraded mine in the 4200 miles I have commuted on mine since the end of May) but their jets cannot be changed.

Stock, the bike should be able to hit 60 mph, and with a rear sprocket change, it should be able to maintain (cruise at) 60 or up to 65 without sounding like the engine is screaming for mercy.
What carb and rear sprocket is it again? Sorry, I am totally new as well.


 
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Old 04-18-2017, 06:54 AM   #35
old kid   old kid is offline
 
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nice looking bikes guys

the one thing i didnt see anyone mention, or maybe i read thru it too quick and missed it , but there are several videos on you tube on what mods can be done and how to do them, they are quite helpful.


 
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Old 04-18-2017, 07:50 AM   #36
culcune   culcune is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarwolf View Post
What carb and rear sprocket is it again? Sorry, I am totally new as well.
Someone with a Hawk should be able to point you in the right direction where they purchased their carb and sprockets. I have seen so many posts about it, and links, but never bothered to commit the info to memory!
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Old 04-18-2017, 08:58 AM   #37
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Old 04-18-2017, 09:25 AM   #38
Ariel Red Hunter   Ariel Red Hunter is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarwolf View Post
What carb and rear sprocket is it again? Sorry, I am totally new as well.
If you want to change carbs, the Mikuni VM-26 is the one people get. You can find them easily on e-bay. The advantage to a Mikuni is that it is easy to get both main jets AND pilot jets for them. Makes it easy to get carburation dead right. Rear sprockets are available on e-bay also. So are front sprockets. Changing the front sprocket to a 16 tooth is a step in the right direction. The first thing I would buy is a new chain. The stock one is not very good. It wears out real quick. I recommend UniBear chain. It is a high quality chain, and lots of people on here have changed to that chain and have had no issues. It takes about 500 miles of normal riding in order to run-in (break in) the engine-transmission...ARH


 
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Old 04-18-2017, 06:53 PM   #39
sshevie   sshevie is offline
 
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Thread necromancers be gone !!!! Lol


 
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Old 04-18-2017, 07:23 PM   #40
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Quote:
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Thread necromancers be gone !!!! Lol
That's the funniest thing I've read on here yet! Literally laughing out loud here
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Old 04-18-2017, 08:21 PM   #41
ben2go   ben2go is offline
 
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I don't get it.


 
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Old 04-19-2017, 02:24 AM   #42
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Whether they are told to or not, some new members will do a thread search for info that they are looking for. The fact that some people replied just shows what a great site we have.

I am fluent in sarcasm but I chose to not use it this time because we are dealing with a young person that will ask the same questions here and other places because he is used to instant answers.
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Old 04-19-2017, 04:52 AM   #43
JimShortz   JimShortz is offline
 
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I'm concerned that by "I had the retailer replace the oil with synthetic oil" you are not allowing the engine to wear in. It is normally recommended that for the first oil change or two you use regular oil so that there is some engine wear - allowing the engine to "bed-in" and loosen up a little. Yours might end up staying tight for a very long time if only ever run on synthetic oil...


 
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Old 04-19-2017, 06:41 AM   #44
JerryHawk250   JerryHawk250 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimShortz View Post
I'm concerned that by "I had the retailer replace the oil with synthetic oil" you are not allowing the engine to wear in. It is normally recommended that for the first oil change or two you use regular oil so that there is some engine wear - allowing the engine to "bed-in" and loosen up a little. Yours might end up staying tight for a very long time if only ever run on synthetic oil...
That is correct. Don't use synthetic until the engine is broke in.
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