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Old 07-30-2021, 11:15 PM   #1
Cheapascanb   Cheapascanb is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 38
ok got the xpro assembled today. I was waiting on jets and a carb but this bike has more room to work and seems easy, well easier to replace so why not slap it together right? Yeah so a few things: One of the battery brackets was missing, and after barely snugging the bolts in the handlebars one of them stripped. The nut was just spinning in place and the bars were still moveable if that gives an idea as to how loose the bolts were.... Trip to the local hardware and some grade 8 bolts later and those bars are tight!!! $10 fix. The battery bracket, well, i gave it some thought and they look like pipe hold downs so a few measurements and on the same trip grabbed a pack of 3/4 pipe hold downs and drilled a hole in the top and now that is fixed. The bike started pretty easily but wouldnt stay running without the choke being on half choke. Ok so its lean, I assumed it would be. It runs a bit better after warming but its def lean so the carb will be replaced, b/c the shit one in it is not worth modding to make it adjustable imo. Rode it around the house a few laps and it seems ok minus the feathering need due to the carb issue, although the suspension is really soft in the rear. I will adjust the shock once my spanner arrives and see if I can get that acceptable. Another week or so and I should have these out on the trails and will give a more in depth review/comparison along with some pics of the bikes and some Wyoming beauty in the background. One final note, I have not messed with the filters on either bike yet. I will oil them and see how much that helps the lean condition. I am sure it will some but I suspect that I will have to upgrade both and do some modding before I am comfortable with it.


 
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Old 07-25-2021, 01:23 AM   #2
OBrienx   OBrienx is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 30
my bad you never know. you should be good on what you said about the engine check over. just the oil in it doesn't do anything literally and will score as it doesn't create enough VOC at the friction bearings (yes i found this out the hard way) no matter what your going to go through 3 jugs for two oil changes and it would break in better with that diesel spec oil you have and wouldn't dislodge so much scored material. iv heard to seizures on these engines from the stock oil is the only reason i brought it up.

also getting a half slip exhaust will make jet changes much better vs taking the tank off and such to pull the carb. the spilt pip can be taken off the front and the carb area is fully accessible.. if your going to do mods and test jetting a lot this is a nice addition to these bikes. Also you only have to remove the tank bolts and the two seat bolts and two bolts at the front then fuel line to shut off to pull the tank and such its not too bad but the plastics dont have to be removed just leave them attached to the tank thats what i do anyways and it protects the bottom outlet port for the fuel line also from kids that like to knock stuff around like mine lol.

stock carb jetting is a weird one and jets you cant even buy ... a 112 main 39 pilot keihn jets if im not mistaken but both jets you wont need likly especially if your going mikuni as the jets are different. i have starting good starting points for jetting for keihn PWK and mikuni VM26 carburetors for these bikes just the needle clip you will need to test and change mostly to your altitude. your most likly going to use second from the top or middle needle clip position if you are asking for a suggestion.

if you dont have tools modifying that stock carb is going to be impossible as its disabled from factory literally its not a fluke theyre done like that for a few reasons. Emissions and to prevent a overly lean condition causing a early warranty. get some good oil and 93 octane fuel and break it in best you can till you get tools and the new adjustable carburetor. sucks but i did say to grab and install the new carb when you do the bike as it would be ahell of a lot easier. you will prob only need the tools you where given to assemble the bike other then to get the bowl drain plug off the new carb. changing the carb isnt a huge huge ordeal but after assembling and entire bike lol i would be snoozing on the carb install for a day or so. Dont worry though youe bike is ok just hte stock carb does this from factory and its irritating if you dont change it 10 out of 10 rides your take lol. just bite the bullet have a few more coffees then normal and attack the carb swap and try the jet settings i suggested most places that fix bikes have these jets in stock as almost every mike can use any carb practically speaking of course.

i remember how frustrated i was the day i did my bike.. and not alot of answer to the same questions your asking for this bike specifically.. ill watch your post bud if you need anything let me know.
__________________
2013 Apollo 250RX

-Zong db36 233cc engine w/ titanium valves, ported exh.
-WizeCo 11:1 piston
-CRF230 Athena big bore cylinder
-Powercore 788 Exhaust
-HF K&N Pod Filter and intake
-1/4 fuel lines and valves w/ plastic tank
-HR handle bars and MX pully controls
-CRF230 SHOWA fork
-Oversized MX brakes & rotors
-17T 46T (3.07 Gear ratio) JT Sprockets with a D.I.D gold MX chain
-Keihin pwk30 30mm carburetor 115main/35pilot


 
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Old 07-25-2021, 01:31 AM   #3
OBrienx   OBrienx is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 30
ok 0-25% throttle i got you.

there is a cap atthe top of the carb that the throttle cable goes to

under that cap is a slider and a needle under that... you might need to watch a video how to take the cable off and not want to rip it apart as it takes practice to get these things off and on fast.

once the needle is out of the slider change the clip position from 3(middle) to up one or down one

if you move it up one it will lean out your bike at 0-25% throttle
if you move it down one it will rich the bike at 0-25% throttle

its a good thing to note you really should have access to a mixture screw when you do tuning.. overall if you want to fix the condition you should swap the carb
__________________
2013 Apollo 250RX

-Zong db36 233cc engine w/ titanium valves, ported exh.
-WizeCo 11:1 piston
-CRF230 Athena big bore cylinder
-Powercore 788 Exhaust
-HF K&N Pod Filter and intake
-1/4 fuel lines and valves w/ plastic tank
-HR handle bars and MX pully controls
-CRF230 SHOWA fork
-Oversized MX brakes & rotors
-17T 46T (3.07 Gear ratio) JT Sprockets with a D.I.D gold MX chain
-Keihin pwk30 30mm carburetor 115main/35pilot


 
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Old 07-25-2021, 01:35 AM   #4
OBrienx   OBrienx is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 30
o shit wait dont do that !!!! i forgot they have the top cap disabled with a thread plug... ugh im not sure what to do with that stock carb with out tools.

if you can get the cap off then do what i suggested but if you dont get the thread lock off its going to rip the threads off and youll need to change it anyways
__________________
2013 Apollo 250RX

-Zong db36 233cc engine w/ titanium valves, ported exh.
-WizeCo 11:1 piston
-CRF230 Athena big bore cylinder
-Powercore 788 Exhaust
-HF K&N Pod Filter and intake
-1/4 fuel lines and valves w/ plastic tank
-HR handle bars and MX pully controls
-CRF230 SHOWA fork
-Oversized MX brakes & rotors
-17T 46T (3.07 Gear ratio) JT Sprockets with a D.I.D gold MX chain
-Keihin pwk30 30mm carburetor 115main/35pilot


 
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Old 07-25-2021, 01:38 AM   #5
Cheapascanb   Cheapascanb is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 38
ok so you dont know the stock jetting on that shit carb? its all good I will prob just put the mikuni knockoff in and go from the the supplied jets 100/42... adjust from there. Yeah im active on this forum and intend to be for the haul so I will be around. Thanks man


 
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Old 07-25-2021, 01:41 AM   #6
Cheapascanb   Cheapascanb is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 38
Yeah Ill get the cap off ... no worries


 
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Old 07-25-2021, 01:50 AM   #7
OBrienx   OBrienx is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 30
i robbed the stock carb for these bikes of the jets and the only two weird ones i have are the 112 and 39 so thats more likly the jets off the carb it comes with

definatly dont run the mikuni with a 100 main sir its will do almost the same as your dont like right now. just a heads up so you dont get frustrated because if you pull the carb for a change then when you rejet it because its not doing what you want youll be pulling it off again to do the jets. up to you of course just the leg work to do carb work on this bike can get tedious.

hope the swap goes well post if ya need anything
__________________
2013 Apollo 250RX

-Zong db36 233cc engine w/ titanium valves, ported exh.
-WizeCo 11:1 piston
-CRF230 Athena big bore cylinder
-Powercore 788 Exhaust
-HF K&N Pod Filter and intake
-1/4 fuel lines and valves w/ plastic tank
-HR handle bars and MX pully controls
-CRF230 SHOWA fork
-Oversized MX brakes & rotors
-17T 46T (3.07 Gear ratio) JT Sprockets with a D.I.D gold MX chain
-Keihin pwk30 30mm carburetor 115main/35pilot


 
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Old 07-25-2021, 01:57 AM   #8
Cheapascanb   Cheapascanb is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 38
alright, ill swap in a 120 main and start from there. I will leave the plastics off once i start til i get it in range. again thanks for the info. I will advise ofc what I end up with. appreciate your and all replies


 
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Old 07-25-2021, 03:28 PM   #9
OBrienx   OBrienx is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheapascanb View Post
alright, ill swap in a 120 main and start from there. I will leave the plastics off once i start til i get it in range. again thanks for the info. I will advise ofc what I end up with. appreciate your and all replies
115 120 125 130 are the only main jets youll need but the 120 should be it unless you get a rich plug when going full WOT and shutting it off with clutch in... then go to the 115. i ran a 120 till i did the compression upgrade then my main and pilot had to go down

good luck man hope the tuning isnt a pain in the ass. Took me 26 times to fully feel confident i tried everything and picked my favorite set up for my configuration but the jet specs and tuning values i posted before are all from stock apollo 250rx owners with a mikuni vm26
__________________
2013 Apollo 250RX

-Zong db36 233cc engine w/ titanium valves, ported exh.
-WizeCo 11:1 piston
-CRF230 Athena big bore cylinder
-Powercore 788 Exhaust
-HF K&N Pod Filter and intake
-1/4 fuel lines and valves w/ plastic tank
-HR handle bars and MX pully controls
-CRF230 SHOWA fork
-Oversized MX brakes & rotors
-17T 46T (3.07 Gear ratio) JT Sprockets with a D.I.D gold MX chain
-Keihin pwk30 30mm carburetor 115main/35pilot


 
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Old 07-25-2021, 04:29 PM   #10
Cheapascanb   Cheapascanb is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 38
looked on orion for a plastic tank, and the only one listed doesnt look correct. Did you have to fab up some mounts for it or something? The link for the tank listed is https://www.orionpowersports.com/pla...0-and-z20-max/
or maybe the right tank is not being sold anymore...


 
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Old 07-25-2021, 08:48 PM   #11
Cheapascanb   Cheapascanb is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 38
Ok, so today my son got called in so the ride was scratched. I had nothing but time so I pulled the tank and plastic. Fought with that mickey mouse setup and finally got the garbage carb out. I wanted to see what jets were in it but only had a drill to work with so drilled off the base screws and pulled it apart. LOL, the jets in it have no indication for what size they are at all. So I put the clone carb with the 100 and 42 in the bike figuring it can't be any worse, sat the tank on it put a little go juice in and pushed the button. The bike fired right up and the throttle response is instant with no bog or other symptoms when on the gas. I have jets coming in a few days, and will adjust if needed.


 
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Old 07-25-2021, 10:13 PM   #12
OBrienx   OBrienx is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheapascanb View Post
Ok, so today my son got called in so the ride was scratched. I had nothing but time so I pulled the tank and plastic. Fought with that mickey mouse setup and finally got the garbage carb out. I wanted to see what jets were in it but only had a drill to work with so drilled off the base screws and pulled it apart. LOL, the jets in it have no indication for what size they are at all. So I put the clone carb with the 100 and 42 in the bike figuring it can't be any worse, sat the tank on it put a little go juice in and pushed the button. The bike fired right up and the throttle response is instant with no bog or other symptoms when on the gas. I have jets coming in a few days, and will adjust if needed.
LMAO a 100 and a 42 im surprised they run like this... im apologize i was wrong i wonder where i got those two weird jets then hmm weird.

i sent you a link to the proper plastic tank and make sure you get a gas cap for it (rx) as it doesnt come with one. they arent cheap beware and dont forget the pool noodle for under the tank or youll be buying a new one if it wares out.

once you get that carb and jets in it should feel like a different type of bike all together.
__________________
2013 Apollo 250RX

-Zong db36 233cc engine w/ titanium valves, ported exh.
-WizeCo 11:1 piston
-CRF230 Athena big bore cylinder
-Powercore 788 Exhaust
-HF K&N Pod Filter and intake
-1/4 fuel lines and valves w/ plastic tank
-HR handle bars and MX pully controls
-CRF230 SHOWA fork
-Oversized MX brakes & rotors
-17T 46T (3.07 Gear ratio) JT Sprockets with a D.I.D gold MX chain
-Keihin pwk30 30mm carburetor 115main/35pilot


 
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Old 07-25-2021, 08:57 PM   #13
Cheapascanb   Cheapascanb is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 38
Wink frame mod to keep tank from rubbing or vibrating

Had it apart today so snapped pics of the mod.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg tank 1 a.jpg (77.0 KB, 194 views)
File Type: jpg tank 2.jpg (117.3 KB, 190 views)


 
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Old 07-27-2021, 10:33 PM   #14
Cheapascanb   Cheapascanb is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 38
No update on the apollo, waiting on some parts and stuff. Nothing was broken, well the bottom chain alignment/guard was mangled so I took that off but really just things I am going to change(jets, tank).
The xpro came in today, and I have to say that it is packaged more completely assembled and easier to wrestle out of the crate IMO(my son and I had it out of the crate and rolling on both wheels in 20 mins or so), but to be fair it is not 100% assembled. The engine in the xpro is at a different angle in the chassis and as such the kickstart is at an angle that leaves less travel, but seems adequate enough. The battery/air cleaner joint area is, uh, odd . I will follow up on the xpro filter/battery area after getting it all assembled which is on hold pending a carb, and a nice gash on my finger healing :( . I mentioned the chassis being diff on the xpro~ there is a good deal more room afforded on the xpro as the frame is just tubing instead of the slab of shaped medal down the side of the apollo and it appears carb tuning/maintenance would be much easier. More later.


 
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Old 07-28-2021, 04:48 PM   #15
Plump Kibbles   Plump Kibbles is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Virginia
Posts: 233
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheapascanb View Post
No update on the apollo, waiting on some parts and stuff. Nothing was broken, well the bottom chain alignment/guard was mangled so I took that off but really just things I am going to change(jets, tank).
The xpro came in today, and I have to say that it is packaged more completely assembled and easier to wrestle out of the crate IMO(my son and I had it out of the crate and rolling on both wheels in 20 mins or so), but to be fair it is not 100% assembled. The engine in the xpro is at a different angle in the chassis and as such the kickstart is at an angle that leaves less travel, but seems adequate enough. The battery/air cleaner joint area is, uh, odd . I will follow up on the xpro filter/battery area after getting it all assembled which is on hold pending a carb, and a nice gash on my finger healing :( . I mentioned the chassis being diff on the xpro~ there is a good deal more room afforded on the xpro as the frame is just tubing instead of the slab of shaped medal down the side of the apollo and it appears carb tuning/maintenance would be much easier. More later.
Filter / box is pretty odd on those, I have the X-Pro myself. I was running the TwinAir oiled blue filter for the YZ450 - great filter if you're keeping the airbox stock! I got the 30mm clone carb, tuned up now, and yes the area under the seat to get into the carb is MUCH nicer than most others - I can even get my little flat head in there to the mix screw. Haven't had to change batteries out yet, about a year on mine now still good. Kick start hits my right foot peg, left some good marks on the kick lever lol I can say yes the unboxing and put-together was very easy, almost 80% assembled! Seems pretty lubed up when I got mine - linkage needed just a dab of grease. You will be changing carbs pretty quick, mine was off and swapped in under a week. I am running a pod filter now, just for more air and bigger jets. Engine - yes, these do have a slightly different engine than the Hawks and some of the others, it IS a SOHC setup though, valves are pretty simple to get to; I would take the tank off and slide it back - perfect room. Only one bolt holding it in place. I maaaay get another TwinAir filter and go back to stock air box though - even with the stock box, I hit 80MPH with that bike on I81; and the bigger jets. Glad to see another one out there! I was beginning to think I was the only one that got one of the X-Pro's! I got the KTM orange lol
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