New member! Help me tell what cc my zongshen motor is??????? - Page 9

Weldangrind · 10-25-2017, 11:50 AM

Mike, you can just search www.taobao.com and use CG200 as your search phrase. Use Google Chrome and allow it to translate automatically. After several pages, you'll eventually find some interesting pistons for cheap.

Ironmike · 10-25-2017, 10:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

Mike, you can just search www.taobao.com and use CG200 as your search phrase. Use Google Chrome and allow it to translate automatically. After several pages, you'll eventually find some interesting pistons for cheap.

Thx for the link. I ended up buying new valves/springs/seals. Good or bad idea to replace the valves? Should I just replace the seals?

Weldangrind · 10-26-2017, 11:41 AM

If they're the correct dimensions, why not replace them? It strikes me as a good idea. You could even lap them into the seats.

Ironmike · 10-26-2017, 09:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

If they're the correct dimensions, why not replace them? It strikes me as a good idea. You could even lap them into the seats.

I compared the valves today. The new ones look slightly smaller

hope valve seals are right? I can just lap the old ones while I have them out. What about opening up the exhaust port a little?

Weldangrind · 10-27-2017, 12:04 PM

The valve seals are likely to be correct, but it's only a guess. I wouldn't open up the exhaust port, but I'd clean it up. I might even polish it.

Megadan · 10-27-2017, 07:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

The valve seals are likely to be correct, but it's only a guess. I wouldn't open up the exhaust port, but I'd clean it up. I might even polish it.

To be fair, cleaning up the exhaust port effectively essentially means opening it up. While I wouldn't hog out the diameter of the port exit much, the port itself requires quite a bit of "cleaning" to open it up lol. The casting around the valve guide consumes so much of the exhaust port that it's a bit comical.

Ironmike · 10-29-2017, 09:50 PM

Thx for replies. How important is it to clean the centrifugal filter? I ask because previous owner had to extend the kick start shaft by to clear the frame to make it functional. The shaft is welded along with the kick start lever. I ran the motor very briefly with valve cover off and oil is pumping to the top end nicely. Is this an actual screen? Someone plz explain what it does? Thx

Ariel Red Hunter · 10-30-2017, 10:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ironmike

Thx for replies. How important is it to clean the centrifugal filter? I ask because previous owner had to extend the kick start shaft by to clear the frame to make it functional. The shaft is welded along with the kick start lever. I ran the motor very briefly with valve cover off and oil is pumping to the top end nicely. Is this an actual screen? Someone plz explain what it does? Thx

No, it is the opposite of a screen, or paper filter, in the way it cleans oil. They used to call these devices lube-refiners. They work by centrifigal action. As it gets up to speed, it spins the oil at a high rate of speed. Anything heavier than the oil gets thrown into the outer rim of the case, and the now cleaned oil goes on its merry way to lubericate the engine. So it is ESSENTIAL for you to clean it out, especially since the engine had a piston failure. You are going to have to get that shift lever off of the shaft some how. If you don't already have a Dremel type power head, you can buy one online or at a True-Value hardware store. But use a Genuine Dremel die grinding bit, like the guy who just posted about mounting a new exhaust system on his Hawk. You have to get that shaft as smooth as a baby's ass in order to not tear up the kick-start shaft oil seal. Patience, young man, patience...ARH

**JerryHawk250** · 10-30-2017, 10:19 AM

The kick start weld looks nasty. lol If you don't need the kick start you might just have to wack it off and get another shaft.

Ironmike · 10-30-2017, 08:04 PM

Ok didn't know it was that important. I'm gonna just cut the shaft. I don't use kicker anyway! Thx ARH for the explanation

Ariel Red Hunter · 10-31-2017, 08:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ironmike

Ok didn't know it was that important. I'm gonna just cut the shaft. I don't use kicker anyway! Thx ARH for the explanation

You're welcome. Be sure you file any burrs after you cut it. You don't want to wait 3 months for a new seal to get here. Going this far, have you checked the rod bearing? It is a roller bearing, and can have a little movement back and forth, but none straight up and down. You don't have to put a lot of effort in lifting it. I used to just put a finger in the piston pin hole in the rod to check it for slop...ARH

Ironmike · 11-01-2017, 10:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ariel Red Hunter

You're welcome. Be sure you file any burrs after you cut it. You don't want to wait 3 months for a new seal to get here. Going this far, have you checked the rod bearing? It is a roller bearing, and can have a little movement back and forth, but none straight up and down. You don't have to put a lot of effort in lifting it. I used to just put a finger in the piston pin hole in the rod to check it for slop...ARH

I'll be sure the shaft is nice and smooth. The rod has side to side movement with no up/down play. Really take that long for a seal? Hoping to have time Sunday to work on it. The head pipe is def restricting things a bit but want to make sure it runs good before I buy the one mentioned in previous post. Can't seem to find that pipe local. Is Australia is only play available? Thx

Ironmike · 11-06-2017, 08:37 PM

Got the motor back together. The valves ended up fitting fine. Did 3 10 min heat cycles per Duncan racing then changed the oil. Adjusted valves. Have 153 psi as of now. Good thing I cleaned out the filter under the side cover. That thing was CAKED with grim/crap. Gonna start riding around the yard to break it in more. Sounds pretty smooth for a push rod motor. After I know it's running good I'll start working on the details. Exhaust it def on the list.

Ariel Red Hunter · 11-07-2017, 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ironmike

Got the motor back together. The valves ended up fitting fine. Did 3 10 min heat cycles per Duncan racing then changed the oil. Adjusted valves. Have 153 psi as of now. Good thing I cleaned out the filter under the side cover. That thing was CAKED with grim/crap. Gonna start riding around the yard to break it in more. Sounds pretty smooth for a push rod motor. After I know it's running good I'll start working on the details. Exhaust it def on the list.

If, as you say, the centrifigal oil-refiner was full of grime and crap, that device is what saved the rest of the engine. Just imagine what that engine would have been like without that thing being on there...ARH

Ironmike · 11-08-2017, 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ariel Red Hunter

If, as you say, the centrifigal oil-refiner was full of grime and crap, that device is what saved the rest of the engine. Just imagine what that engine would have been like without that thing being on there...ARH

I'm sure your right. I'll post a pic. It's on a grey oil mat so it's kinda hard to see it all. Rode it for 10mins at up to 50% throttle. Running good! The breaking up and having to run it on 1/2 choke is no longer there/needed

running way smoother. I will still have to jet it in in the spring. Over the winter I'll do a lot of cleaning up and adding some new parts! Appreciate everyone's help!!!!!!! Oh ya is Australia the only place I can get that head pipe I need?

10-25-2017, 11:50 AM	#121
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	Mike, you can just search www.taobao.com and use CG200 as your search phrase. Use Google Chrome and allow it to translate automatically. After several pages, you'll eventually find some interesting pistons for cheap. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
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10-26-2017, 11:41 AM	#123
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	If they're the correct dimensions, why not replace them? It strikes me as a good idea. You could even lap them into the seats. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
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10-27-2017, 12:04 PM	#125
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	The valve seals are likely to be correct, but it's only a guess. I wouldn't open up the exhaust port, but I'd clean it up. I might even polish it. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
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10-30-2017, 10:19 AM	#129
JerryHawk250 Moderator Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Houma, La. Posts: 11,538	The kick start weld looks nasty. lol If you don't need the kick start you might just have to wack it off and get another shaft. __________________ 2023 Lifan Lycan 250 Chopper 2023 Venom Evader 2022 Lifan KPX250 2020 Kawasaki Vulcan S 2004 Honda ST 1300 2016 Black Hawk 250 (sold) Keihin PE30 carb,125 main,38 slow.Pod filter,ported & decked head 10:1 CR,Direct Ignition Coil,15/40Sprockets,NGK DPR8EIX-9,De-Cat,Dual Oil Cooler,Digital Cluster 2016 Cazador180 XL 2014 Coolster150 JerryHawk250.com My YouTube Channel
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10-30-2017, 08:04 PM	#130
Ironmike Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: NY Posts: 81	Ok didn't know it was that important. I'm gonna just cut the shaft. I don't use kicker anyway! Thx ARH for the explanation Last edited by Ironmike; 10-30-2017 at 09:29 PM.
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10-29-2017, 09:50 PM	#127
Ironmike Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: NY Posts: 81	Thx for replies. How important is it to clean the centrifugal filter? I ask because previous owner had to extend the kick start shaft by to clear the frame to make it functional. The shaft is welded along with the kick start lever. I ran the motor very briefly with valve cover off and oil is pumping to the top end nicely. Is this an actual screen? Someone plz explain what it does? Thx
	0

11-06-2017, 08:37 PM	#133
Ironmike Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: NY Posts: 81	Got the motor back together. The valves ended up fitting fine. Did 3 10 min heat cycles per Duncan racing then changed the oil. Adjusted valves. Have 153 psi as of now. Good thing I cleaned out the filter under the side cover. That thing was CAKED with grim/crap. Gonna start riding around the yard to break it in more. Sounds pretty smooth for a push rod motor. After I know it's running good I'll start working on the details. Exhaust it def on the list.
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