Valve Adjustment Notes

NoVa Rider · 06-17-2015, 05:53 PM

Completed my first RX3 valve adjustment. Here are a few observations.

On removing tank: after removing side plastic, and removing rear bolt, lift tank up at rear and pull backwards to release it from the front rubber mount. At this point there are a number of hoses that need to be disconnected if you want to remove tank entirely. For me it was easier to disconnect the two electrical connections, and set the tank down sideways on an old bath towel where the drivers seat goes. (Be careful to completely cover the starter relay and battery terminals: shorting the battery with your fuel tank would probably void CSC's warranty.) I used a second rolled bath towel to help prop the tank up so it was not sitting on the fuel connection, and I also put a strap around the rear of the tank down to the foot peg to ensure it wouldn't topple off. Had to be careful, but this avoided pulling lines off of the tank fittings and disconnecting the fuel injection line.

Taking off the cover and adjusting the intake valves was easy. I set mine at .004 inches. (Edit -- oops, should have been .04 mm to 6mm). But the exhaust valves were a different matter. CSC advises taking the radiators off of their mounts to give you more room for access, but I had difficulty finding a wrench that would fit the upper mount bolts: they are easy to see but the upper radiator hoses make it difficult to put a socket on them, and their position under the frame makes it difficult to get a wrench on them. (Edit: 8mm T handle like Spud suggests or an 8mm 1/4 inch socket on an extension works. ) So I tried leaving the radiators in place, got the cover off the exhaust valves, and squirmed around until I found a position where I could see the valve adjusters and get a hand on them. I eventually got a .006 feeler gauge under both, liked the setting, so I did not have to adjust either exhaust valve. (Again, oops -- should have used a .06 mm gauge!) It's better to unbolt the radiators.

As I prepared to reinstall the tank, I found a curved tab on the inner right frame member just where the fuel line "cannister" (the fuel filter) goes. Looked to me as if the tab was intended to secure a fuel line for a carb version of the RX3: it did not fit around the fuel filter and also would not fit into a slot on the side of the filter. I ended up bending the tab downwards slightly (its light metal and will break off easily), and just ensured that nothing was pinched as I reinstalled the tank. I considered using a zip tie to help secure the fuel line but decided against it.

Not a lot of problems. A couple of places reminded me that the RX3 is not quite up to Japanese fit/finish/assembly standards. Such as the curved tab that does not seem to fit the fuel injection line, and also a couple of cross threaded bolts holding the plastic in place. But its all back together and working well.

06-17-2015, 05:53 PM	#1
NoVa Rider Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Northern Virginia Posts: 144	Valve Adjustment Notes Completed my first RX3 valve adjustment. Here are a few observations. On removing tank: after removing side plastic, and removing rear bolt, lift tank up at rear and pull backwards to release it from the front rubber mount. At this point there are a number of hoses that need to be disconnected if you want to remove tank entirely. For me it was easier to disconnect the two electrical connections, and set the tank down sideways on an old bath towel where the drivers seat goes. (Be careful to completely cover the starter relay and battery terminals: shorting the battery with your fuel tank would probably void CSC's warranty.) I used a second rolled bath towel to help prop the tank up so it was not sitting on the fuel connection, and I also put a strap around the rear of the tank down to the foot peg to ensure it wouldn't topple off. Had to be careful, but this avoided pulling lines off of the tank fittings and disconnecting the fuel injection line. Taking off the cover and adjusting the intake valves was easy. I set mine at .004 inches. (Edit -- oops, should have been .04 mm to 6mm). But the exhaust valves were a different matter. CSC advises taking the radiators off of their mounts to give you more room for access, but I had difficulty finding a wrench that would fit the upper mount bolts: they are easy to see but the upper radiator hoses make it difficult to put a socket on them, and their position under the frame makes it difficult to get a wrench on them. (Edit: 8mm T handle like Spud suggests or an 8mm 1/4 inch socket on an extension works. ) So I tried leaving the radiators in place, got the cover off the exhaust valves, and squirmed around until I found a position where I could see the valve adjusters and get a hand on them. I eventually got a .006 feeler gauge under both, liked the setting, so I did not have to adjust either exhaust valve. (Again, oops -- should have used a .06 mm gauge!) It's better to unbolt the radiators. As I prepared to reinstall the tank, I found a curved tab on the inner right frame member just where the fuel line "cannister" (the fuel filter) goes. Looked to me as if the tab was intended to secure a fuel line for a carb version of the RX3: it did not fit around the fuel filter and also would not fit into a slot on the side of the filter. I ended up bending the tab downwards slightly (its light metal and will break off easily), and just ensured that nothing was pinched as I reinstalled the tank. I considered using a zip tie to help secure the fuel line but decided against it. Not a lot of problems. A couple of places reminded me that the RX3 is not quite up to Japanese fit/finish/assembly standards. Such as the curved tab that does not seem to fit the fuel injection line, and also a couple of cross threaded bolts holding the plastic in place. But its all back together and working well. Last edited by NoVa Rider; 06-20-2015 at 03:41 PM. Reason: To add a warning note.
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