Rear Brake Mushy and Weak

[fjmartin]

I noticed after my moto camping weekend that on the way home my rear brake pedal was moving it's full stroke and bottoming out and the brake was really weak. Today I pulled the brake pads off and they were JUST at the point of needing to be replaced...could just barely see the wear line on each pad. I replaced the pads but still had the mushy weak brake. So then I bled the brake...a LOT to make sure I had all the air our of the line and all new fluid in there. Still the same. Then I noticed that there was a pretty good size gap from the pad to the rotor on the inside pad. I tried pulling on the floating brake to move it over but it wouldn't move. Investigating I found that there are two bolts that hold the caliper unit onto the brake mount. These two bolts are also used for the "float". The forward bolt (toward the front of the bike) floats inside a sleeve but it was really really sticky. I spent a bunch of time cleaning out the sleeve and the bolt and put a little grease on it and now I was able to center it and then the pedal started moving the correct stroke and the brake is nice and strong again. Just an FYI for y'all in case you run into this type of issue. Take care!

[dpl096]

Thanx for the heads up FJ....Could be something worth adding the the Spring maintenance list of lube and adjustments.

[BlackBike]

So when you say sticky, I'm presuming you are referring to a build up of dirt, brake oil, or chainlubricant? You cleaned up with carb cleaner brake cleaner spray or something?

[fjmartin]

Not sure what was in there. There is a rubber seal that "should" have prevented anything from entering. It was thick and sticky like a lube that was OLD. No sand or dirt. I cleaned it with alcohol and a rag and kept putting in the bolt in the shaft and spinning it will in moved freely. Most of the length of the bolt is smooth and has a flat spot. That made for easy collection of gunk from inside the sleeve.

[SpudRider]

Thanks for posting the good tip, Joe.

It is important to clean the caliper pins and lubricate them properly. In early March I installed new brake rotors and new brake pads on all 4 wheels of my automobile.



Before installing the brake pads, I cleaned the brake caliper pins, and lubricated them with AGS Sil-Glyde. I also intend to follow this practice henceforth with my motorcycle brake calipers.

AGS Sil-Glyde is an excellent lubricant which will not harm the rubber boots which cover the brake caliper pins.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...k-4/12024852-P

[Megadan]

^Sil-Glyde is great stuff. If you can't, for whatever reason, find that locally, then look for Permatex Ceramic Extreme brake parts lubricant. It's like an odd mix of dry ceramic lubricant meets anti-sieze meets high temp waterproof grease, and it works really well. It's also safe with plastic and rubber like Sil-Glyde

[ElectricCircus]

Originally Posted by Megadan

^Sil-Glyde is great stuff. If you can't, for whatever reason, find that locally, then look for Permatex Ceramic Extreme brake parts lubricant

Can´t find none of these here: I´m using Valvoline Moly Fortified MP Grease for the brake pins, and for every non-rotating bearing on my RX3 (like those at the rear suspension arm and dogbone).