Valve adjustment assistance

[SpudRider]

The engineers set the valve lash specifications for the engine to make the most power, and run most efficiently. If you set the valves too loose, you will lose some power. Having said that, it is better for the valve lash to be too loose, rather than too tight.

Everyone has a different technique for closing in on the correct valve lash. After you set the valve lash, it's important to measure it in the correct manner. Keeping the feeler gauge as straight (unbent) as possible, you want to note a slight drag on the gauge as you draw it under the tappet.

[katflap]

Originally Posted by rjmorel

enlighten me on how you actually adjust the valves guys.
What is confusing me is that even if gap is a bit loose can it still work ?
The tolerance is .0016-.0024 thousands converted from the .04-.06 metric (sorry I can't relate to .04-.06 metric ). When I did mine, I put a .003 thousands feeler in there , ran the adjuster down and tightened the nut. Then felt with the .002 feeler and it was loose. I left it there. Runs just like when new and no noticeable difference in noise, performance.
Hoping I was safe as the valve clearance gets tighter as valve wears into head more.
So if I were to put a .004 feeler in and adjust it to that thickness which would be twice the clearance, it would only push the valve down 1 thousands of an inch less. Bigger clearance = less valve movement. What am I missing here that they need to be so close?
So do you put the thicker feeler gage in between the valve and threaded adjuster. Then turn the threaded adjuster down till it just touches the feeler gage and then tighten the threaded adjuster lock nut and call it good ? Or do you try to "feel" how much pressure is on the feeler gage and by tightening and loosening get it to feel just right between the 2 feeler gages?
Seems to me as long as it's on the loose side it would be ok. but maybe I'm missing something here. rj

Distant memories of being at college the lecturer said that doing tappets, the resistance on the feeler gauge should feel like a knife going through butter.

I remember thinking at the time , well how sharp is the knife and how warm is the butter.

Having the gap a bit too slack is less about how much the valve will open and more about valve timing. The valve will open later and shut earlier.
Also there is a hammering effect that can increase strain and wear on the valve train components.

But these are minor details compared with having the lash too tight.

rj,

get yourself a set of metric feeler gauges, trust me it will be fine, the world of metric is sweet

How I did mine
------------------
Making sure the blade of the 0.06mm feeler gauge is fully under the rocker arm tip, adjust until you can feel a good constant resistance when you pull it out.

if it snags, sticks or leaves a grove in your gauge as you pull it out then its too tight.

Once done

Check the gap with the 0.04mm blade, it should slide in very easily, so you now know your not too tight.

Then check the gap with the 0.08mm blade, you shouldn't be able to get it in at all.

End result
------------
You now know for sure that the gap is larger than 0.04mm but smaller than 0.08mm but more likely to be spot on 0.06mm.

This I'm happy with.

*disclaimer*
My memory is known to be unreliable !

[SpudRider]

As usual, that is a superb explanation, Kat. Using the 0.04 mm as a 'go gauge,' and the 0.08 mm as a 'no-go gauge,' is excellent advice.

X2 on using the metric feeler gauges. I wish the United States had converted to the metric system in the 1970s, when Canada made the switch. You can find an excellent set of feeler gauges marked with SAE/metric sizes at Harbor Freight.

http://www.harborfreight.com/32-piec...uge-32214.html

[rjmorel]

thanks for the great replies fellows. Now I got it, rj

[detours]

Yes, thank you everyone! I intend to follow kat's procedure for upper and lower limits when I hit 500 miles.

[fishman10]

Kat you have explained it perfectly,,,Bravo!!!

[detours]

I adjusted my valves yesterday and I wanted to say for everyone's great advice. Here are a few notes from my experience.

Removing the body panels was pretty easy. Except for the radiator to fairing bolts, they're all easy to access from outside the bike.

Removing the tank was a bit more complicated because of the fuel lines. Here are my suggestions:

1. Before you do anything else, run the RX3 nearly out of fuel.
2. Remove the seat and cover the area with a towel.
3. Remove the tank side panels.
4. Slowly but firmly pull the tank away from the handlebars.
5. Tilt the tank up so you can see the bottom.
6. Disconnect the electrical plugs.
7. Disconnect the two overflow/vent hoses.
8. Turn the tank on its left side. Place a towel over the open area under the tank.
9. The horizontal hose should be pointing up. Disconnect it and plug the hole
10. Turn the tank as close to upside down as possible. Disconnect the remaining fuel line and plug the hole.
11. Set the tank on a towel on the ground upside down.

Note: The plugs I used came from my vacuum line kit that I use for bleeding the brakes.

[detours]

A few notes on bolts. The seat bolts are nearly identical to the radiator bolts, except the seat bolts are shorter. To avoid losing or confusing them, I suggest screwing the seat bolts back into their holes after you remove the seat.

And speaking of radiator bolts, the upper bolt on the left radiator was a real beyotch to remove because the radiator hose is directly in front of it. My suggestions:

1. Do not start this job without a T-handle socket set or multiple socket extensions.
2. Remove the rectifier from the frame next to the radiator. This will give it some wiggle room to move.
3. Remove the lower radiator bolt.
4. Use a T-handle socket or long extension as a lever to push the radiator hose to one side and get to the bolt.
5. It may help to push the radiator, but be careful of the plastic cover. My wobble extension helped make the corner and get the socket onto the bolt.

In this pic, you can see the upper radiator bolt taunting me from behind the hose, laughing in my face! You can also see the bracket where the rectifier was removed.

[detours]

I also had some trouble finding TDC (top dead center). So I took a pic to help everyone know what to look for. My suggestions:

1. Do not start this job without a set of metric hex bit sockets up to 10mm. L-shaped allen wrenches may be too short for the leverage you need to turn the crank. Hex bit sockets for a socket wrench are better.
2. Do not use star hex wrenches in an allen socket, even though they will fit.
3. IMPORTANT: Place the transmission in neutral.
4. IMPORTANT: Wear safety glasses. Oil may squirt out the view port at you.
5. Place a rag on the ground under the view port. It will drip a little oil.
6. With both the crankcase cover and view cap open, insert your 10mm allen into the crankcase socket.
7. Slowly turn the wrench counter-clockwise until the crank turns over like it was spring-loaded. It may squirt a little oil at you.
8. Slowly turn the wrench back clockwise until you see a letter T and a horizontal scribe line. A light scraping sound is normal.
9. Line the scribe line up with the mark on the view port. It just has to be close.
10. Remove the wrench. The crank will stay at top dead center while you adjust the valves.

Here is a picture of the TDC line. It is clearly marked with a T and a thick line. Don't be confused by other small machining marks ... only use this one.

[detours]

Adjusting the exhaust valves just about killed me. I had bought a set of valve tappet wrenches, but they didn't work. The socket wall was too thick to fit the openings, so I grabbed an 8mm combo wrench.

The locknut was so tight on the exhaust valves that I actually broke the open end of my 8mm wrench! Luckily, the piece fell on the floor instead of into the engine! Also, luckily, I was barely able to get my socket set in there to break the locknut loose.

To turn the screw on the exhaust valves, I linked up all my socket extensions to reach all the way up through the frame and used a bit driver on top with a bit holder on the bottom. This was much easier than trying to fit two hands in that tiny area to measure the gap, adjust it and lock it down.

My feeler gauge almost didn't work for me. I should have bought one that had .04 mm to .08 mm gauges, but mine only went to .055 mm. Still it's under .06mm so I figured it was good enough.

After lots of trial and error, I was able to set the valves to .055, lock them down with the closed end of my broken combo wrench and check my work. Whew!

The intake valves were much easier.

[AZRider]

Unless it's already been done, maybe we could start a thread on removing stubborn nuts and bolts. Seems we're getting way more of these than normal.

[Adjuster]

A small impact driver will remove any stubborn nut or bolt no problem at all and zero damage. Harbor Freight has a cheap one. You will also need the right set of extensions and wobblers to reach the bolt. The impact driver will also drive and remove screws with never a stripped screw head again.

http://www.harborfreight.com/18-volt...ver-62421.html


This is what I have and I love it. Huge time saver and lifesaver.

https://bigskytool.com/cordless-tool...nditioned.html


You will also need something like this so you can use your existing sockets with your 1/4 impact driver.

http://www.amazon.com/YSTD%C2%AE-Soc...Socket+Adapter

Says they are DeWalt but likely fake.




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[Adjuster]

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[woodlandsprite]

Oh good grief.

Thanks for posting your experience. Looks like I might need to go buy more tools...
Also I have a feeling the valve adjustment process is going to result in a lot of testing of my patience.

[detours]

It may try your patience, but it is absolutely doable. The CSC valve tutorial is very good and with the tips in this thread, you'll do fine. Especially if your hands are smaller than mine. And if you have the right tools.