Bashan Storm won't run

[ZS336]

So I've searched around a bit but I can't seem to find any other posts with this specific problem

I stored my perfectly good running Storm for the winter, drained fuel checked plug, adjusted valves etc

Well yesterday I got it out, changed oil, pulled carb and made sure jets were clean and threw it back on. Go to start it and it will not do anything with the choke off at all, not even half choke. It will only idle whatsoever with full choke. Touching the throttle at all will kill it instantly.

I tore the carb apart and cleaned it real good and made sure it fills with fuel with no change. Checked the plug and it looked fine looked fine.


Before I order a new carb or cdi to try and maybe some other things I'm looking for all of your insight as to what else might be the cause.

[Azhule]

My first guess... Pilot jet needs a good poking...

You said you cleaned the carb real good, how did you go about doing it?

A few ways I hear people cleaning them up but still end up having problems include (but not limited to):

Compressed air, "boiling" the jets in water and a drop of dish soap, "SeaFoam" it...

You usually need to use an ultrasonic cleaner or just "poke" all the jets and carbs micro venturies out with an extremely fine wire

P.S. Welcome to the forum

[Megadan]

The lazy man way out of it would be to put seafoam or my personal favorite, Berryman's B-12 Chemtool in the fuel for the first tank or two to help break up any varnish as it runs. This is usually my first attempt after a bike has been stored and is often enough on its own. Even if you drain the fuel from the bowl and turn the bike over with the choke on for a few cranks, often a little fuel gets left behind and it varnishes.

If not the pilot jet, the idle circuit itself might need a good blast of compressed air. Azhule is correct, sometimes a fine wire poked through the jet is needed to dislodge something that may be clogging it. Pilot and idle circuits are itty bitty little holes and passages, so it doesn't take much to throw off the fueling.

Berryman's and Gunk also both sell a carb cleaning chemical bucket that allows you to dunk and soak the carburetor and jets. Follow this with some compressed air through all of the passages and it usually works very well. Just make sure to remove the rubber seals before doing so.

[paulsstag]

Originally Posted by Azhule

My first guess... Pilot jet needs a good poking...

You said you cleaned the carb real good, how did you go about doing it?

A few ways I hear people cleaning them up but still end up having problems include (but not limited to):

Compressed air, "boiling" the jets in water and a drop of dish soap, "SeaFoam" it...

You usually need to use an ultrasonic cleaner or just "poke" all the jets and carbs micro venturies out with an extremely fine wire

P.S. Welcome to the forum

I have cleaned many carbs in my time and by far the biggest problems are the smallest holes and passages.

Because the carb has to feed only 229 cc it has tiny jets and passageways they are the first ones to block up with gum and varnish. You must remove the idle jet and the main jet and clean with carb cleaner and look through the jets to make sure you can see light through it.

Your problem is most probably in the air idle mixture port on needle ( one of the smallest areas. If you still have the factory sealed cap over the mixture screw you must remove it and then the air mixture screw itself.

Now spray carb cleaner ( go to walmart and buy the cheap carb cleaner spay with the straw )through every port of the carb body to make sure they are not blocked.

Remember that it is the smallest holes and jets that block first and are usually the most difficult to clean.

Make sure you do not leave any rubber o rings or gaskets on the carb body as most will not fair well against carb cleaner.

A $2.00 can of carb cleaner and 30 years of experience at no charge

[wedooit]

Many moons ago when I was in the auto parts biz, we sold tons of Berryman products, carb cleaner in 5 gal pails to many repair shops. Gunk is or was owned by a company called Radiator Specialty. We also sold tons of their products. Both companies are highly recommended.

[ZS336]

I tore the carb apart and put the jets in my cheap harbor freight cleaner for 10 minutes. I used paint gun cleaning needles to the small holes. I’ll pull it again and check as there was varnish flakes and ethanol gunk in the bowl when I cleaned it the first time. I didn’t even think to check/clean the tank.

I’ll clean the carb and run some seafoam through it and see if that helps. I’ve noticed that these are a lot more sensitive than a typical v8 carb that just needs a good wash and blow out to work again

Thanks for the great advice!

[2LZ]

Originally Posted by Azhule

My first guess... Pilot jet needs a good poking...

P.S. Welcome to the forum

Zakkly

[paulsstag]

Originally Posted by ZS336

I tore the carb apart and put the jets in my cheap harbor freight cleaner for 10 minutes. I used paint gun cleaning needles to the small holes. I’ll pull it again and check as there was varnish flakes and ethanol gunk in the bowl when I cleaned it the first time. I didn’t even think to check/clean the tank.

I’ll clean the carb and run some seafoam through it and see if that helps. I’ve noticed that these are a lot more sensitive than a typical v8 carb that just needs a good wash and blow out to work again

Thanks for the great advice!

You just hit the nail on the head with the V8 reference. Even a 4 barrel feeding a small 5.0 or 5.7 has big idle circuits and jets as they need to feed alot more fuel so don't clog as easy.

I had many customers come in with their bikes that would not idle or run well and they usually stated that they had cleaned the carbs but still no luck.

Mostly it was the 4 cyl bikes that ran 4 carbs so you can imagine how small the idle circuits were on those.

Double check the idle circuit and pilot jet and your bike will run like a top.

[paulsstag]

Originally Posted by ZS336

I tore the carb apart and put the jets in my cheap harbor freight cleaner for 10 minutes. I used paint gun cleaning needles to the small holes. I’ll pull it again and check as there was varnish flakes and ethanol gunk in the bowl when I cleaned it the first time. I didn’t even think to check/clean the tank.

I’ll clean the carb and run some seafoam through it and see if that helps. I’ve noticed that these are a lot more sensitive than a typical v8 carb that just needs a good wash and blow out to work again

Thanks for the great advice!

You just hit the nail on the head with the V8 reference. Even a 4 barrel feeding a small 5.0 or 5.7 has big idle circuits and jets as they need to feed alot more fuel so don't clog as easy.

I had many customers come in with their bikes that would not idle or run well and they usually stated that they had cleaned the carbs but still no luck.

Mostly it was the 4 cyl bikes that ran 4 carbs so you can imagine how small the idle circuits were on those.

Double check the idle circuit and pilot jet and your bike will run like a top.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by ZS336

I tore the carb apart and put the jets in my cheap harbor freight cleaner for 10 minutes. I used paint gun cleaning needles to the small holes. I’ll pull it again and check as there was varnish flakes and ethanol gunk in the bowl when I cleaned it the first time. I didn’t even think to check/clean the tank.

You mention cleaning the needles. Don't forget that the carburetor body itself that those jets screw into has little passage ways for fuel or air to also travel through. Specifically the idle mixture circuit off of the pilot jet that runs to the back of the carb.

[ChipToothy]

Maybe take a good strong light and check your tank for rust etc. Mine runs fine but that tank came to me nasty. Same with the fuel line, it’s worth a wash or replacement. You could easily re-clog something you just cleaned with a dirty tank.

[Megadan]

A good way to prevent tank rusting is to add a couple ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil or Marine Stabil to the fuel when you fill. This also has the side benefit of adding lubrication to the needles and their respective seats/jets during operation.

[Azhule]

Schaeffer Neutra 131 and Star Tron fuel additives are known for cleaning up nasty (gum, varnish, and rusted) fuel tanks.

I would skip the "SeaFoam" treatments... you can get better products for a lot less $$... after all, "SeaFoam" is basically Diesel Fuel, Naphtha, and Iso Alcohol... you could spend $20 on diesel fuel and chemicals to easily make 3 or so gallons of "SeaFoam"... or spend upwards of $9 for 16 ounces of the crap