Coffee filter-recycle break in oil.

[ProDigit]

The break-in oil on these bikes is still good after discarding.
The lubricity and additives are all still very good.
The only reason to swap out the oil during break-in, is the metallic flakes.

I was wondering if anyone recycled their first oil?
Even the OEM oil (better than the vegetable oil I once used in one of my bigger bikes), is certainly enough for the first few hundred miles, provided it's filtered well somehow (and perhaps mixed with proper engine oil to get some benefits of the additive package).

I was thinking of keeping the used oil, let the metal shavings and sediment sink down, and filter the clean oil and reuse it.

Not sure if a coffee filter will be most efficient, or if someone has some kind of experience with doing this?

Once oil runs between a few hundred to a few thousand miles, and it starts to decolor, it's time for a change.

I know most of you don't even bother, and just go for another $10-$25 jug of fresh new oil, and I understand.
However, maybe others have thought of reusing break-in oil?

[david3921]

Most consider it shipping oil and discard it right away on these vehicles. We may be wrong, however, and it might be fine. My point of view is I'm not willing to take a chance when its cheap (relatively) to just replace it right away because of the small amount needed to fill the crankcase.

[cheesy]

Good question, but I am in agreement with david3921.

When I was building heavy equipment, I'd replace the engine oil after the first heat cycle. It wasn't worth the risk on a $10K engine.

[JerryHawk250]

I use the old oil for bar chain oil on my chainsaw.

[GypsyR]

Since my little bikes barely hold a quart and a quart of actual "motorcycle" oil from Wal-Mart is less than a pack of cigarettes these days I quite frankly haven't given it any thought.

[2LZ]

I toss it before I fire the bike. Historically, stock oil in both the China Bikes and my old Japanese bikes as a kid, were garbage. Shipping oil, as stated above. All the fluids, really, especially fork oil. Like Jerry said, it makes great bar oil. Living where I do, everything goes to the recycler.

[GypsyR]

It continues to not seem clear.
"Shipping oil" and "break in oil" are not the same thing. On many machines (besides motorcycles even) the manufacturers say to discard/recycle whatever oil they put in at the factory. Right after you unpack it. I've an air conditioning compressor box underfoot that says exactly that on it.

Break in oil should have 500 miles of actual use on it, depending on the bike.

[ProDigit]

Shipping oil, is oil. It just doesn't have the additive package. But mixed with engine oil that does have the additive package, it's just as good as any oil. At least, to be used as break in oil, something you'll discard after 100-200 miles.

Most of the additives missing in shipping oil, are those that will suspend water, which is only an issue if the bike sits long.
Other additives are to reduce wear from certain metals, which isn't really an issue during the break-in.
Yet other additives, are friction modifiers. Most oils handle the crankcase and cylinder wall temps of 275F just fine, without breaking down, even without friction modifiers.
They might just be thicker in cold weather than most synthetics.

I myself wouldn't use it to ride.
But to give it a second chance, filtered, during the break in period, I think won't harm. Fact, I'm pretty sure it's not going to harm the engine, unless you want it to (like pouring water in the crank case, or trying to start the engine at -40F).

I found out a coffee filter is too tight for an oil filter. It seeps through too slowly. A piece of cloth would probably be better, or an oil filter, but that defeats the purpose of near zero cost base. Third option is just use a magnet to fish out the suspended metallic particles. I don't think my engine has any aluminum in it. Just steel.

And like I said, I drove a much bigger bike on corn oil for lubricant, for 30+ miles without any negative side effects. it did have about half a quart of 10w30 motor oil in it, so there was some form of additive package in the oil.


Is it recommend? Perhaps not.
But is it possible? A definite 'yes'!

I probably won't do it on a brand new $10+k Honda or Kawasaki, but think it's perfectly fine for <$1500 Chinese toys.

[GypsyR]

Different strokes for different folks I guess. I tend to keep my vehicles a long time. My main road bike I bought in 1988. Had to to tear the engine down (it swallowed a carb butterfly screw) a couple of years ago. Senior mechanic at the shop commented on how it looked brand new inside. I credit the care I take with the oil changes I give it.

I treat my equipment and vehicles pretty equally. How I much paid for them or how much they might be currently worth don't figure into it. I look at how reliable I can make and keep them for the time I want them to keeping work for me with as little hassle as possible. Years and years of observing how other people often bring mechanical trouble upon themselves by not bothering to do proper maintenance or wanting to spend the money has made me not want to travel that path.
I seriously don't like spending the money on the fairly expensive oil changes on my wife's car but that's part of what it takes to keep it dead reliable and so be it.

[Thumper]

I have always heated up the engine for a few minutes before dropping the "shipping oil". Zongshen doesn't provide them bare dry. They put oil in them. And Zongshen wouldn't put garbage in there

I would agree that $5 worth of a known multiplate clutch friendly oil should go into it before I ride it, but I am not worried at all about the first heat cycle. I run it for 5 or 10 minutes and get it warmed up, revving moderately to shake things loose.

In my opinion, that first heat cycle is meant to suspend particles. I have the thing on the rack and the drain plug is already loose enough to drop the oil the second I shut it off. As I said it's all about eliminating any metal filings I can possibly flush. AND, draining completely so the new oil isn't dilluted.

And my second oil change is about 50 to 75 miles in. Again, another $5 out of pocket. No biggy. I've been amazed at the stability and quality of the Zongshen engines in the Chinese bikes I've owned. The Storm was the oldest (sold), the original Templar X 5 speed is the new oldest. The thing springs to life instantly, runs perfectly. So did the Storm. In fact, the Storm had a remote starter. It worked instantly, every time.

[TominMO]

Originally Posted by Thumper

In my opinion, that first heat cycle is meant to suspend particles. I have the thing on the rack and the drain plug is already loose enough to drop the oil the second I shut it off. As I said it's all about eliminating any metal filings I can possibly flush. AND, draining completely so the new oil isn't diluted.

And my second oil change is about 50 to 75 miles in.

This is great wisdom.

[ProDigit]

I just saw a phenomenal piece on YouTube about break-in oil.
Apparently, according to the specialist in the matter, what your bike needs most is zinc in the oil.
The zinc will abrase the surface a little, and bond with the steel, forming a much more durable, corrosion resistant surface layer.

That being said, I bought a tube of TB zinc plus break in oil, that I'll be adding to the engine oil. Its only necessary for the first 50-100 miles, after which you can run any kind of engine oil you prefer.
The most crucial moment is right out of the box. Use that in the first few miles of the bike for maximum effectiveness.


Here's the link to the video:

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by ProDigit

I just saw a phenomenal piece on YouTube about break-in oil.
Apparently, according to the specialist in the matter, what your bike needs most is zinc in the oil.
The zinc will abrase the surface a little, and bond with the steel, forming a much more durable, corrosion resistant surface layer.

That being said, I bought a tube of TB zinc plus break in oil, that I'll be adding to the engine oil. Its only necessary for the first 50-100 miles, after which you can run any kind of engine oil you prefer.
The most crucial moment is right out of the box. Use that in the first few miles of the bike for maximum effectiveness.


Here's the link to the video:

The zinc is important for solid tappets with no surface hardening or protective coating most of all. This is one reason I recommend people to use Rotella T4 15w40 for break in on the CG250 engine - it contains the highest zinc levels of any oil currently available off the shelf that isn't a modern motorcycle oil. Just shy of 1400ppm to be specific.

[ProDigit]

According to the reviews, a tube of TB zinc plus, has 5000 ppm.
I don't plan on using the entire bottle, just merely using a squirt in my current break in oil.
Even contemplating putting the rest inside my car, that already has 130k miles on it.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by ProDigit

According to the reviews, a tube of TB zinc plus, has 5000 ppm.
I don't plan on using the entire bottle, just merely using a squirt in my current break in oil.
Even contemplating putting the rest inside my car, that already has 130k miles on it.

If your car was built in the last 20 years, it don't need it.