HAWK Exhaust Plate Bolt Broke

[NickThrash]

Hey guys, I went off road-ing the other day with my hawk and on my way home I heard a weird rattling sound, just before I pulled into my drive way. I gave the bike a look around and saw the plate that holds the exhaust up to the motor was dangling around. I noticed one bolt missing and the other one had the nut just about to fall off.

So at first I thought I lost the bolt but after a closer look I saw the broken half of the bolt still in the motor.

Im wondering if anyone has an idea of a solution for this. Id be very nervous with drilling the bolt out as I would assume the bolts holes are open all the way inside the motor (Could be wrong). But also doing any drilling like that, close to the casing would freak me out.

At This point I've had so many bolts break or just fall out, on the hawk. That im starting to recommend everyone, who would buy one, replace EVERY SINGLE piece of hardware on this bike. I pretty much have at this point...

Photos:

[JerryHawk250]

These screw extractors work pretty good. https://m.lowes.com/pd/SpeedOut-Dama...tor/1000170531

[kirbo7106]

That sucks! Drilling them out and using an extractor works, but it is easy to screw up the head. You can also weld a rod to the remaining stud and back it out with a pair of pliers. I’v Used that process twice. Once for a broken stud on a jet drive on a jet boat and the other time was on a broken stud on a thermostat housing on a Ford 4.0 in a Sport Trac.

Let us know how it goes.

[pete]

If you stuff the thread in the head getting it out
try retapping with 1/4" UNC... is .4 bigger than 6mm.
don't drill the hole just run the tap straight in...


..

[Mudflap]

My favorite method is to lay a nut over the broken stud and weld through the middle, then remove it with a wrench. I've ruined too many parts trying to drill them out.

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by Mudflap

My favorite method is to lay a nut over the broken stud and weld through the middle, then remove it with a wrench. I've ruined too many parts trying to drill them out.

I've used this method most of the time. Only good if you have a welder, but yes it is probably the best way I have found. Another trick I have done is if it is broken off too far to tack a nut on and the only option is to drill. Take a piece of flat bar and drill two holes in it. One to slip over the other bolt and tighten down and the other hole it be a smaller hole like 1/8" to use as a pilot so the bit doesn't drift side to side when drilling the pilot hole in the stud for your easy out. This keeps the bit dead center of the stud. I've changed out too many broken studs in my life time and I have screwed up a few until my brother in law who has been a mechanic most of his life shown me that trick.

[kirbo7106]

Hey JerryHawk250, that is a great idea! I would like to think that I will never use that method/skill, BUT...unless I stop playing with all the mechanical “Stuff” in my life....ok, that’s not going to happen, so thanks for that idea!

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by kirbo7106

Hey JerryHawk250, that is a great idea! I would like to think that I will never use that method/skill, BUT...unless I stop playing with all the mechanical “Stuff” in my life....ok, that’s not going to happen, so thanks for that idea!

Well I recently had to use both methods on s 5.7 Hemi that had 3 broken studs. Two I welded the nut and removed with no problem. The 3rd one was kind of like Nicks broke on a slight angle but not as much as Nicks. I was dealing with aluminum heads so one slight opps is a big opps. I just took my time and used the jig then used the speed out to remove the stud.

[NickThrash]

Originally Posted by JerryHawk250

Well I recently had to use both methods on s 5.7 Hemi that had 3 broken studs. Two I welded the nut and removed with no problem. The 3rd one was kind of like Nicks broke on a slight angle but not as much as Nicks. I was dealing with aluminum heads so one slight opps is a big opps. I just took my time and used the jig then used the speed out to remove the stud.

Hmm. After some inspection I am finding that these are, in fact, not bolts but rods that poke out from the engine. They are just threaded themselves and have a nut go on them to tighten.. I have no idea why bolts wouldnt be used for this.... I had thought they were both bolts but there is no way to remove them other than cutting them..

I guess my only option would be to weld a bolt (maybe without a head) to the motor in the hole where the original rod was at and put a nut on that...

guess i have to start saving up for a MiG, and start learning to weld.

[JerryHawk250]

There should be a stud like below and not a bolt.

If you mess it up a little you can drill and tap larger and use a repair stud like this.

[Megadan]

They are known as Studs, as Jerry mentioned. Studs are far more common than bolts for exhaust systems for a multitude of reasons.

All of the suggestions given are good ones. Just make sure to take your time and be very patient.

I would recommend replacing both studs with new ones. That would be my only addition to the advice given here. If you can, find stainless steel studs, and replace all of the hardware with the same, and use a lock washer as well as a second nut on each one to help keep them from vibrating loose. Also, make sure to use anti-sieze on the threads of the studs that go into the cylinder head. You will be glad you did down the road.

Lastly, if you do screw up the head trying to remove the stud, don't sweat it too much. You can go to an offset sized stud, or even replace the cylinder head for a modest amount of money. I picked up a second head for $50.

[NickThrash]

Originally Posted by Megadan

They are known as Studs, as Jerry mentioned. Studs are far more common than bolts for exhaust systems for a multitude of reasons.

All of the suggestions given are good ones. Just make sure to take your time and be very patient.

I would recommend replacing both studs with new ones. That would be my only addition to the advice given here. If you can, find stainless steel studs, and replace all of the hardware with the same, and use a lock washer as well as a second nut on each one to help keep them from vibrating loose. Also, make sure to use anti-sieze on the threads of the studs that go into the cylinder head. You will be glad you did down the road.

Lastly, if you do screw up the head trying to remove the stud, don't sweat it too much. You can go to an offset sized stud, or even replace the cylinder head for a modest amount of money. I picked up a second head for $50.

Oh thanks for that info. That was very informative from both of you.

At first i thought they couldnt be removed because i saw no way of removing them. So how do you remove them? or do they both just have to be drilled out or "Nut welded" out?

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by NickThrash

Oh thanks for that info. That was very informative from both of you.

At first i thought they couldnt be removed because i saw no way of removing them. So how do you remove them? or do they both just have to be drilled out or "Nut welded" out?

On the one that is not broke you should be able to use vice grip pliers to remove it. You can putting a double nut on the stud and back it out but never had too much luck at that.

[JeremyC]

I'm gonna throw in that it's a good idea to put anti-seize on those studs to prevent them from rust-welding into the head. I havent yet, but will be when I do my mods over winter. welding a nut to what's left of the stud is by far the easiest way to get a broken one out.

[david3921]

Try using a punch to back out the stud. There may be enough sticking out and the stud might be loose enough to try this. Google the technique it you are unaware of how to do it. A little heat might be needed to get it turning.