Hawk 250 cant shift and clutch cable question

[GaryF11]

So I have a 2021 Hawk 250 and haven’t really had any issues, but about 3 weeks ago I was out riding and my clutch cable snapped I’ve since ordered 2 and neither fit one was a 46” the other a 48”. As you probably know neither worked and I cannot find the true size anywhere online so if anyone knows or can link one that’d be great.. Anyways the main issue I’m having I just found today I tried just moving the clutch lever on top of the assembly to shift the bike a few times because I’ve been out of town since the cable snapped and it hasn’t been started or ridden. I found that I cannot push the bike at all with it in 1st and the clutch pulled in as well as if the clutch is pulled in and the bike is on it launches forward and stalls when I shift to 1st so the clutch is binding obviously but my question is do y’all think 3 weeks is really enough time to seize an almost new clutch? Or do you think the clutch is just toast because prior to the cable snapping when I would ride the bike more than 15 miles or so and it would get really hot I’d have a really hard time shifting sometimes. I also wanna add that the cable snapped before I started the bike so it didn’t snap and let the clutch slam forward or anything. So I need to know the true clutch cable size and what y’all think about if it’s seized or just bad. Thank you. 2021 Hawk 250 mod list: NIBBI PE28 carb, NIBBI high sensitivity throttle, ngk spark plug, loud pipes, cat delete, lowered 3 inches, Alpena headlight and fog light, NIBBI 48mm long intake tube, NIBBI 48 mm intake, bored out exhaust manifold, JT 45t rear sprocket, JT 17t front sprocket, NICHE Oring chain.

[Megadan]

First Google search result I got. https://www.ebay.com/itm/26559044829...BoCFvIQAvD_BwE

Trying to move the clutch arm by hand is going to prove tough to do. It is going to be really stiff and you will likely not.be able to move it far enough to disengage.

If you are just trying to get it out of first and into neutral simply rock the bike back and forth and apply upwards pressure on the shifter-bike NOT running - and it should eventually click into neutral.

[GaryF11]

No it’s already in neutral I was just gonna let it run and cycle the gears because it’s been sitting for a while… So the shift arm isn’t movable by hand? That’s what I was thinking because when I moved it forward it moves about an inch and a half but I remembered what it looked like before when I’d pull the clutch in from the lever and I remember it going further so if it just isn’t movable all the way by hand that’s a huge relief

[franque]

Megadan is correct in everything he said. You won't get the lever on the engine to move in a way that disengages the clutch, because the amount you can move it now is just free play.

Also, it could be that the clutch plates are sticking together, just rock the bike back and forth in gear to unstick them after you've got a cable. I'd just get a cable from the manufacturer, or get one for an XR200.

Another thing, too: while your list of modifications is impressive, it is better to get the bike running, bone stock, and get a feel for how everything works together, slowly putting things on one at a time, rather than putting a bunch of things on at once, because if only one thing gets messed up/not installed correctly, you can isolate it and more easily troubleshoot it, rather than having 40 different variables to deal with.

[Thumper]

Two symptoms indicate that your cable is too loose -the adjustment nut at the lever needs to be unscrewed to effectively lengthen the cable housing (this allows the lever to pull internal cable and therefore, the clutch more fully when you pull the lever).
These two symptoms are difficult shifting and bike lunging, possibly stalling when you put it in first from a stop.

Regarding the "longer" cable. As long as the cable housing is ALSO longer, it can usually work. You just end up with the clutch cable poking higher over the handlebar since it is longer than necessary.

Originally Posted by GaryF11

So I have a 2021 Hawk 250 and haven’t really had any issues, but about 3 weeks ago I was out riding and my clutch cable snapped I’ve since ordered 2 and neither fit one was a 46” the other a 48”. As you probably know neither worked and I cannot find the true size anywhere online so if anyone knows or can link one that’d be great.. Anyways the main issue I’m having I just found today I tried just moving the clutch lever on top of the assembly to shift the bike a few times because I’ve been out of town since the cable snapped and it hasn’t been started or ridden. I found that I cannot push the bike at all with it in 1st and the clutch pulled in as well as if the clutch is pulled in and the bike is on it launches forward and stalls when I shift to 1st so the clutch is binding obviously but my question is do y’all think 3 weeks is really enough time to seize an almost new clutch? Or do you think the clutch is just toast because prior to the cable snapping when I would ride the bike more than 15 miles or so and it would get really hot I’d have a really hard time shifting sometimes. I also wanna add that the cable snapped before I started the bike so it didn’t snap and let the clutch slam forward or anything. So I need to know the true clutch cable size and what y’all think about if it’s seized or just bad. Thank you. 2021 Hawk 250 mod list: NIBBI PE28 carb, NIBBI high sensitivity throttle, ngk spark plug, loud pipes, cat delete, lowered 3 inches, Alpena headlight and fog light, NIBBI 48mm long intake tube, NIBBI 48 mm intake, bored out exhaust manifold, JT 45t rear sprocket, JT 17t front sprocket, NICHE Oring chain.

[GaryF11]

I bought the bike bone stock and have slowly added everything since I got it

Originally Posted by franque

Megadan is correct in everything he said. You won't get the lever on the engine to move in a way that disengages the clutch, because the amount you can move it now is just free play.

Also, it could be that the clutch plates are sticking together, just rock the bike back and forth in gear to unstick them after you've got a cable. I'd just get a cable from the manufacturer, or get one for an XR200.

Another thing, too: while your list of modifications is impressive, it is better to get the bike running, bone stock, and get a feel for how everything works together, slowly putting things on one at a time, rather than putting a bunch of things on at once, because if only one thing gets messed up/not installed correctly, you can isolate it and more easily troubleshoot it, rather than having 40 different variables to deal with.

[Thumper]

I just reread this.

When you pull the clutch, the plates are no longer pressed together, but if they've been sitting, they still won't move past each other. If the bike is in 5th gear, you can probably break them loose (the advantage of gearing).

But as MegaDan said, rock the bike back and forth while gently shifting (engine not running), and you can find neutral to start the engine (no lunging forward when you start, not in gear).

This is your comment that tells me this:
"I found that I cannot push the bike at all with it in 1st and the clutch pulled in as well as if the clutch is pulled in and the bike is on it launches forward and stalls"

I have exactly the same behavior on my bike when the thing has been sitting. There is NO OIL between the plates. They are tightly compressed. This in normal. You have to get some oil between those plates to free them up.

You can usually break this loose by using 3rd gear, or even 4th gear. Engine NOT running, pull the clutch, roll forward in 3rd or 4th gear. This should free the two sets of plates in your clutch. The lower gearing means that when you roll the bike, the transmission has a gearing advantage on the driven side of the clutch. The engine side is held in place when the engine is not running (cylinder compression).

NOTE: If you have the bike running, in neutral, hold the brake tight when you shift into 1st gear (clutch pulled, of course). This will prevent lunging, and break loose the clutch plates (loosening the clutch plates). If the clutch is NOT engaging fully when you pull it, the engine will be stopped from turning when you hit 1st.

Originally Posted by GaryF11

So I have a 2021 Hawk 250 and haven’t really had any issues, but about 3 weeks ago I was out riding and my clutch cable snapped I’ve since ordered 2 and neither fit one was a 46” the other a 48”. As you probably know neither worked and I cannot find the true size anywhere online so if anyone knows or can link one that’d be great.. Anyways the main issue I’m having I just found today I tried just moving the clutch lever on top of the assembly to shift the bike a few times because I’ve been out of town since the cable snapped and it hasn’t been started or ridden. I found that I cannot push the bike at all with it in 1st and the clutch pulled in as well as if the clutch is pulled in and the bike is on it launches forward and stalls when I shift to 1st so the clutch is binding obviously but my question is do y’all think 3 weeks is really enough time to seize an almost new clutch? Or do you think the clutch is just toast because prior to the cable snapping when I would ride the bike more than 15 miles or so and it would get really hot I’d have a really hard time shifting sometimes. I also wanna add that the cable snapped before I started the bike so it didn’t snap and let the clutch slam forward or anything. So I need to know the true clutch cable size and what y’all think about if it’s seized or just bad. Thank you. 2021 Hawk 250 mod list: NIBBI PE28 carb, NIBBI high sensitivity throttle, ngk spark plug, loud pipes, cat delete, lowered 3 inches, Alpena headlight and fog light, NIBBI 48mm long intake tube, NIBBI 48 mm intake, bored out exhaust manifold, JT 45t rear sprocket, JT 17t front sprocket, NICHE Oring chain.

[Megadan]

To add to the above you can also make your life easier while manually rolling the bike in gear by removing the spark plug. That prevents you fighting the compression of the engine which can be a big help.

Another thing that can help is to lay the bike over on the clutch side for a little while. This might help seep some oil in between the plates.

[weiser23]

So what size was it and where did you get it my cable broke on me 2020 hawk dlx