Templar 250 resource guide - Page 2

Minisumo · 08-01-2023, 10:18 AM

Templar X replacement throttle cable that is the same as the original is the Nibbi CB Throttle cable 36.8"/5.0 or 36.8/5.1. And comes in different colors if you are into that.

Leroi · 09-22-2023, 07:55 PM

New user here, I have read the entire post of the Templar X, a lot of it several times. I ordered the Templar X after reading.
Mine has a born on date of June 2023, and they have addressed a few issues noted in earlier posts.
Mine has an intake gasket, it also has a washer between the right side rear axle spacer to make clearance for the brake caliper, so no dragging of the pads.
Removing the carb is a pain, and I followed directions from user Old-Dude to get it out by removing the intake "manifold" and modify it.

When it came time to adjust the shock, I was too impatient to hammer it around one notch at a time. I started to remove the air box and then figured out.
1.Remove the seat and right side panel (if you cut a notch with a razor knife instead of the hole, you don't have to loosen the luggage rack every time you need to remove the panel, I read that somewhere on here and did it).
2.Muffler
3. Crankcase vent from airbox to engine. (I tried both ends, and the engine side is easier to reinstall).
4. Loosen clamp on rear of carburetor to airbox.
5.Remove two allen head screws in the frame and loosen the bolt right behind the gas tank.

Now the entire rear subframe will pivot up and rest on the gas tank.
Battery and all wiring stays in place.

You have unrestricted access to the shock preload adjustment and also a straight shot at the carburetor. I was able to change the jets without (removing the gas tank)....Duh, I meant to say disconnecting the carb cables or fuel line.

Hope someone finds this useful.

Thumper · 09-22-2023, 09:07 PM

I just remove the exhaust to pull the carb out. You do not have to remove the tank to get the carb out.

In fact, you can pull the slide out without removing the exhaust (just loosen the clamps and twist the carb to shim the needle). There are exhaust gaskets (in this thread, above) if you need one for reinstallation of the exhaust.

To get the rear shock out, just remove the upper mount bolt, and the lower linkage. The shock drops out the bottom in minutes.

I took the rear frame off when I first got my X too. I wanted to check out the structure, reassemble with loctite where needed, but I wont do that again. That is way more work than either removing the exhaust to get the carb out, and way more work than unbolting the rear shock and dropping it out the bottom. The linkage is easy to put back together, and you can drill a new lower mounting hole on the rear shock to lower the bike while it is out. I compressed the rear shock spring to dial up some preload (turned the collar by hand with spring compressed!).

tknj99 · 03-20-2023, 08:12 AM

I actually had spare jets on hand to fit the main and i think this was the pilot but don't quote me on that as i may be mixing it up with the pilot jet from my former Titan DLX: https://www.amazon.com/Motofoal-pilo...ps%2C77&sr=8-2

The needle is adjustable and the carb fits exactly as the stock one does.

WeebleWobble · 03-26-2023, 05:20 PM

As mentioned in the main Templar thread, there is no gasket between the intake boot and cylinder head. I was able to find a gasket at my local Autozone auto parts store that is a good fit. It's a thermostat housing gasket, part #35368.

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tknj99 · 04-18-2023, 08:53 PM

Nice write-up on valve adjustments, although you can get away with not having to drain the tank by just lifting it to one side and resting on something while you do the adjustments. Also, after removing the spark plug i found it to be very informative to use a long wooden dowel or something you can inset in the plug hole to feel when the piston is at the top

Thumper · 04-23-2023, 02:50 PM

Here is a good option for a replacement battery for the Templars. The dimensions are shown:

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I got one last year for the 6 speed. It has performed well. I just got another for the 5 speed, and it cost even less ($26.99). Found it in Amazonia. It is slightly bigger but fits perfectly in the battery cradle.

Google this description to find it.
Weize YTX5L-BS High Performance - Maintenance Free

Fast_Freddy · 06-16-2023, 02:57 PM

The stock headlamp on the Templar is worthless. It's a reflector housing which only works well with incandescent bulbs but it is fitted with a very cheap, low output LED bulb. The only incandescent bulbs that fit the BA-20D base are low wattage and useless for a headlight. I tried installing a better LED but although much brighter, it had a terrible beam pattern (as expected). It was blinding to on-coming traffic with a weak, scattered pattern extending from roadway to sky.

LED headlights require a projector housing to work properly so I decided to test this dual projector replacement headlamp assembly from Amazon.

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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BRQ1ZZL3...roduct_details

Watch for coupons on this item. I got 40% off and today it's 20% off. The same headlamp is also available with a plastic number plate and mounting straps on Amazon for ~$60.

Installation was a breeze. The light assembly is a direct fit replacement for the oem unit. The new light includes a separate pigtail connector to allow you to change the wiring pinout to match the oem 4-pin male harness plug. The oem wire color assignments are listed below:

Green - ground
White - low beam/running light*
Brown - running light/low beam*
Blue - high beam

* Interchangeable. Both are +12v when headlamp switch is 'on'

I wired mine:

OEM - New
Green - black (gnd)
white - white (RL)
blue - brown (HB)
brown - blue (LB)

The results are amazing! The beam pattern is near perfect, the cut-off is clean and well defined and the light output is very impressive. I would definitely buy it again. It is the single biggest improvement to my Templar yet. I don't plan to ride a lot at night but at least now I can and with confidence.

Note: I have no idea if this fits the Templar X or M number plate but the version with a new plate should fit without issue.

Thumper · 06-29-2023, 02:00 PM

I found a good exhaust crush gasket replacement. The vendor is on ebay (mopedfactory). I went by the fact that 1) the listing showed the measurements (38.5mm outer diameter, 5mm thickness), and 2) the description has the text "CF250 172MM" in it:

"Exhaust Gasket Ring for 250cc Water-Cooled CN250 CF250 172MM Helix"

I paid for 2 gaskets, but I got 4 of them. Sorry, can't provide part numbers that yield anything on a google search !

Removing the original gasket was a little difficult, but was able to get it out OK. The new gasket fit perfectly, snug to stay while I installed the header pipe. I installed with the metal side against the port, the black crushable side towards the pipe. It sealed right up.

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GypsyR · 09-23-2023, 12:25 PM

Not quite getting the rear shock adjustment. After immediately seeing the wrench I use on other bikes would in no way get in there I just grabbed a very long and skinny punch. Ground the end nice and flat and tapped it with a hammer until I got it to where I thought I might like it and test rode. Took like three minutes maybe. This is a '23 X, as we know not all Templars are 100% the same.

Thumper · 09-25-2023, 09:10 AM

Here is the thread in the Dual Sport section about lowering the Templar X. I thought I should add a link to this thread to the resource guide so it is easier to find.

I added the lowering mount position on my Blue 2022 and a 1/2 Templar X before I sold it, and this thread has the photos from that process. I will probably do this with the 5 speed X this Winter, and dialup maybe a 1/3 inch of compression to stiffen it up. But I will just drop the bike a couple of inches, not 3 to 3-1/2 inches. To do this, I will drill the new hole closer to the original lower mounting position.

Note: If you have the entire shock/spring out, free from the bike, you can use a drill press and get the new mounting hole exactly where you want it, and square across the TWO forks. This is important for lining up for re-installation, but also for smoothe lower linkagage movement. It is a 10mm bolt, so a 10mm drill bit is best.

https://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=31860

To remove the shock for this process, I will drop it out through the linkage area. As I mentioned a couple of posts back, this is an easy way to remove the rear shock.

GypsyR · 09-25-2023, 10:08 AM

Because I seem to be that kind of person, I lowered my X the same way except I took nothing loose but the pivot link. Never pulled the shock and drilled it right there on the bike. I'm a mechanical shortcut kind of guy. Comes from spending some early years working flat rate I expect.

GypsyR · 10-05-2023, 10:23 AM

If/when you take the seat off, have a look at that "button" that holds the front of the seat on. Take the screw out of it, put some Loc-Tite on it, and put it back. Mine loosened itself and there was nothing holding the front of the seat on. No big deal. But if you lose either that oddly short screw, or God forbid, that button you'll be in a bad way trying to find replacements I bet.

Texas Pete · 10-13-2023, 05:35 PM

Templar X 250 Fuse: F10AL250V

F 10A L

F: Fast Blow
L: Low Over Current required to start blowing
10A: 10 Amps
250V: Can handle voltages up to 250 volts and still function as designed

Size Metric: 6x30mm
Size SAE: 1/4" x 1 1/4"

Example Domestic Supply (NAPA):
Fast Acting, Glass Tube, 1/4 x 1 1/4 (6.3 mm x 32 mm) Physical Size, Nickel Plated Brass Endcap Construction, UL Listed Product Meets Standard 248 14
Made in Taiwan vs Made in China
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7822060

NAPA Fuse: BP/AGC-10-RP

BP: "Bolted Pigtail" type of fuse
AGC: All Glass C size Cartridge (1/4" x 1 1/4")
10: 10 Amp
RP: The "RP" in a fuse designation does not have a universally standardized meaning but may refer to a "rejection type" or "rejection pin" design, which is often used to ensure that fuses of the wrong amperage rating cannot be inserted into a circuit. R at the end usually means RoHS compliant, but there is nothing in the data sheets that mention what RP means.

Most AG fuses which are made for Automotive use have a Voltage Rating: 32V AC/DC

GypsyR · 11-08-2023, 01:25 PM

Yet another Loc-Tite tip. When I had the seat off (again) I noticed that the rear brackets are (supposed) to be held to the plastic seat pan by two little screws in each. One of mine had gone and its mate loose. Turns out there are tiny nuts in the plastic pan that not secured terribly well. My nut had flipped over sideways, I had to flip it back square with a pick. I was able to match up the (tiny) missing screw out of my parts stash but it was very much an oddball. Really difficult to tighten these suckers, even pressing hard on the cushion. Even harder to get them to start after you've taken one out. So actually instead of Loc-Tite I believe giving them a little tighten and then putting a dab of like hot glue or other glue over the head of the screw might be better preventative maintenance. It would at least keep you from losing the screws maybe

If I ever take the upholstery off my seat this is something I will definitely improve upon with some larger nutserts or something.

09-22-2023, 07:55 PM	#2
Leroi Join Date: Sep 2023 Posts: 3	Unrestricted Access to Rear Shock New user here, I have read the entire post of the Templar X, a lot of it several times. I ordered the Templar X after reading. Mine has a born on date of June 2023, and they have addressed a few issues noted in earlier posts. Mine has an intake gasket, it also has a washer between the right side rear axle spacer to make clearance for the brake caliper, so no dragging of the pads. Removing the carb is a pain, and I followed directions from user Old-Dude to get it out by removing the intake "manifold" and modify it. When it came time to adjust the shock, I was too impatient to hammer it around one notch at a time. I started to remove the air box and then figured out. 1.Remove the seat and right side panel (if you cut a notch with a razor knife instead of the hole, you don't have to loosen the luggage rack every time you need to remove the panel, I read that somewhere on here and did it). 2.Muffler 3. Crankcase vent from airbox to engine. (I tried both ends, and the engine side is easier to reinstall). 4. Loosen clamp on rear of carburetor to airbox. 5.Remove two allen head screws in the frame and loosen the bolt right behind the gas tank. Now the entire rear subframe will pivot up and rest on the gas tank. Battery and all wiring stays in place. You have unrestricted access to the shock preload adjustment and also a straight shot at the carburetor. I was able to change the jets without (removing the gas tank)....Duh, I meant to say disconnecting the carb cables or fuel line. Hope someone finds this useful. Attached Thumbnails Last edited by Leroi; 09-24-2023 at 02:46 PM. Reason: Clarify some task steps
	4

03-20-2023, 08:12 AM	#4
tknj99 Join Date: Oct 2020 Location: Central VA Posts: 1,256	I actually had spare jets on hand to fit the main and i think this was the pilot but don't quote me on that as i may be mixing it up with the pilot jet from my former Titan DLX: https://www.amazon.com/Motofoal-pilo...ps%2C77&sr=8-2 The needle is adjustable and the carb fits exactly as the stock one does. __________________ 2024 Zuma Storm 150 DLX 2019 Beta 430 RRS 2017 Honda Fury Former China Bikes: Tao DBX1, Brozz 250, CSC RX4, Titan DLX, Templar X
	0

03-26-2023, 05:20 PM	#5
WeebleWobble Join Date: Feb 2023 Location: Washougal, WA Posts: 47	As mentioned in the main Templar thread, there is no gasket between the intake boot and cylinder head. I was able to find a gasket at my local Autozone auto parts store that is a good fit. It's a thermostat housing gasket, part #35368. __________________ Templar X 250 Yamaha XSR900 Kawasaki Brute Force 750 Yamaha TT-R 50
	7

04-18-2023, 08:53 PM	#6
tknj99 Join Date: Oct 2020 Location: Central VA Posts: 1,256	Nice write-up on valve adjustments, although you can get away with not having to drain the tank by just lifting it to one side and resting on something while you do the adjustments. Also, after removing the spark plug i found it to be very informative to use a long wooden dowel or something you can inset in the plug hole to feel when the piston is at the top __________________ 2024 Zuma Storm 150 DLX 2019 Beta 430 RRS 2017 Honda Fury Former China Bikes: Tao DBX1, Brozz 250, CSC RX4, Titan DLX, Templar X
	1

04-23-2023, 02:50 PM	#7
Thumper Join Date: Feb 2021 Location: Kansas City Posts: 2,287	Higher cranking amps-replacement Battery Here is a good option for a replacement battery for the Templars. The dimensions are shown: I got one last year for the 6 speed. It has performed well. I just got another for the 5 speed, and it cost even less ($26.99). Found it in Amazonia. It is slightly bigger but fits perfectly in the battery cradle. Google this description to find it. Weize YTX5L-BS High Performance - Maintenance Free __________________ -2022 5 speed Templar X Orange, OEM 51T rear sprocket, 14T front sprocket -NOS 2020 KTM 250SX (2-stroke motocross), less than 10 hours on it
	1

08-01-2023, 10:18 AM	#1
Minisumo Join Date: Jul 2023 Posts: 3	Templar X replacement throttle cable that is the same as the original is the Nibbi CB Throttle cable 36.8"/5.0 or 36.8/5.1. And comes in different colors if you are into that.
	3

09-22-2023, 09:07 PM	#3
Thumper Join Date: Feb 2021 Location: Kansas City Posts: 2,287	I just remove the exhaust to pull the carb out. You do not have to remove the tank to get the carb out. In fact, you can pull the slide out without removing the exhaust (just loosen the clamps and twist the carb to shim the needle). There are exhaust gaskets (in this thread, above) if you need one for reinstallation of the exhaust. To get the rear shock out, just remove the upper mount bolt, and the lower linkage. The shock drops out the bottom in minutes. I took the rear frame off when I first got my X too. I wanted to check out the structure, reassemble with loctite where needed, but I wont do that again. That is way more work than either removing the exhaust to get the carb out, and way more work than unbolting the rear shock and dropping it out the bottom. The linkage is easy to put back together, and you can drill a new lower mounting hole on the rear shock to lower the bike while it is out. I compressed the rear shock spring to dial up some preload (turned the collar by hand with spring compressed!). __________________ -2022 5 speed Templar X Orange, OEM 51T rear sprocket, 14T front sprocket -NOS 2020 KTM 250SX (2-stroke motocross), less than 10 hours on it Last edited by Thumper; 09-24-2023 at 07:28 AM.
	0

06-16-2023, 02:57 PM	#8
Fast_Freddy Join Date: Nov 2022 Location: Pennsyltuckey Posts: 291	Replacement headlight assembly for Templar The stock headlamp on the Templar is worthless. It's a reflector housing which only works well with incandescent bulbs but it is fitted with a very cheap, low output LED bulb. The only incandescent bulbs that fit the BA-20D base are low wattage and useless for a headlight. I tried installing a better LED but although much brighter, it had a terrible beam pattern (as expected). It was blinding to on-coming traffic with a weak, scattered pattern extending from roadway to sky. LED headlights require a projector housing to work properly so I decided to test this dual projector replacement headlamp assembly from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BRQ1ZZL3...roduct_details Watch for coupons on this item. I got 40% off and today it's 20% off. The same headlamp is also available with a plastic number plate and mounting straps on Amazon for ~$60. Installation was a breeze. The light assembly is a direct fit replacement for the oem unit. The new light includes a separate pigtail connector to allow you to change the wiring pinout to match the oem 4-pin male harness plug. The oem wire color assignments are listed below: Green - ground White - low beam/running light* Brown - running light/low beam* Blue - high beam * Interchangeable. Both are +12v when headlamp switch is 'on' I wired mine: OEM - New Green - black (gnd) white - white (RL) blue - brown (HB) brown - blue (LB) The results are amazing! The beam pattern is near perfect, the cut-off is clean and well defined and the light output is very impressive. I would definitely buy it again. It is the single biggest improvement to my Templar yet. I don't plan to ride a lot at night but at least now I can and with confidence. Note: I have no idea if this fits the Templar X or M number plate but the version with a new plate should fit without issue. __________________ 22 Templar 250 Last edited by Fast_Freddy; 07-23-2023 at 11:21 PM.
	6

06-29-2023, 02:00 PM	#9
Thumper Join Date: Feb 2021 Location: Kansas City Posts: 2,287	replacement Exhaust Gaskets I found a good exhaust crush gasket replacement. The vendor is on ebay (mopedfactory). I went by the fact that 1) the listing showed the measurements (38.5mm outer diameter, 5mm thickness), and 2) the description has the text "CF250 172MM" in it: "Exhaust Gasket Ring for 250cc Water-Cooled CN250 CF250 172MM Helix" I paid for 2 gaskets, but I got 4 of them. Sorry, can't provide part numbers that yield anything on a google search ! Removing the original gasket was a little difficult, but was able to get it out OK. The new gasket fit perfectly, snug to stay while I installed the header pipe. I installed with the metal side against the port, the black crushable side towards the pipe. It sealed right up. __________________ -2022 5 speed Templar X Orange, OEM 51T rear sprocket, 14T front sprocket -NOS 2020 KTM 250SX (2-stroke motocross), less than 10 hours on it
	3

09-23-2023, 12:25 PM	#10
GypsyR Join Date: Feb 2023 Location: Upstate SC Posts: 272	Not quite getting the rear shock adjustment. After immediately seeing the wrench I use on other bikes would in no way get in there I just grabbed a very long and skinny punch. Ground the end nice and flat and tapped it with a hammer until I got it to where I thought I might like it and test rode. Took like three minutes maybe. This is a '23 X, as we know not all Templars are 100% the same. Last edited by GypsyR; 02-19-2024 at 09:55 AM. Reason: small typo
	1

09-25-2023, 09:10 AM	#11
Thumper Join Date: Feb 2021 Location: Kansas City Posts: 2,287	Lowering your bike, shorter rear shock method Here is the thread in the Dual Sport section about lowering the Templar X. I thought I should add a link to this thread to the resource guide so it is easier to find. I added the lowering mount position on my Blue 2022 and a 1/2 Templar X before I sold it, and this thread has the photos from that process. I will probably do this with the 5 speed X this Winter, and dialup maybe a 1/3 inch of compression to stiffen it up. But I will just drop the bike a couple of inches, not 3 to 3-1/2 inches. To do this, I will drill the new hole closer to the original lower mounting position. Note: If you have the entire shock/spring out, free from the bike, you can use a drill press and get the new mounting hole exactly where you want it, and square across the TWO forks. This is important for lining up for re-installation, but also for smoothe lower linkagage movement. It is a 10mm bolt, so a 10mm drill bit is best. https://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=31860 To remove the shock for this process, I will drop it out through the linkage area. As I mentioned a couple of posts back, this is an easy way to remove the rear shock. __________________ -2022 5 speed Templar X Orange, OEM 51T rear sprocket, 14T front sprocket -NOS 2020 KTM 250SX (2-stroke motocross), less than 10 hours on it Last edited by Thumper; 09-26-2023 at 12:58 PM.
	1

09-25-2023, 10:08 AM	#12
GypsyR Join Date: Feb 2023 Location: Upstate SC Posts: 272	Because I seem to be that kind of person, I lowered my X the same way except I took nothing loose but the pivot link. Never pulled the shock and drilled it right there on the bike. I'm a mechanical shortcut kind of guy. Comes from spending some early years working flat rate I expect.
	0

10-05-2023, 10:23 AM	#13
GypsyR Join Date: Feb 2023 Location: Upstate SC Posts: 272	If/when you take the seat off, have a look at that "button" that holds the front of the seat on. Take the screw out of it, put some Loc-Tite on it, and put it back. Mine loosened itself and there was nothing holding the front of the seat on. No big deal. But if you lose either that oddly short screw, or God forbid, that button you'll be in a bad way trying to find replacements I bet.
	4

10-13-2023, 05:35 PM	#14
Texas Pete Join Date: Nov 2022 Location: Dallas TX Posts: 578	Templar X 250 Fuse: F10AL250V F 10A L F: Fast Blow L: Low Over Current required to start blowing 10A: 10 Amps 250V: Can handle voltages up to 250 volts and still function as designed Size Metric: 6x30mm Size SAE: 1/4" x 1 1/4" Example Domestic Supply (NAPA): Fast Acting, Glass Tube, 1/4 x 1 1/4 (6.3 mm x 32 mm) Physical Size, Nickel Plated Brass Endcap Construction, UL Listed Product Meets Standard 248 14 Made in Taiwan vs Made in China https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7822060 NAPA Fuse: BP/AGC-10-RP BP: "Bolted Pigtail" type of fuse AGC: All Glass C size Cartridge (1/4" x 1 1/4") 10: 10 Amp RP: The "RP" in a fuse designation does not have a universally standardized meaning but may refer to a "rejection type" or "rejection pin" design, which is often used to ensure that fuses of the wrong amperage rating cannot be inserted into a circuit. R at the end usually means RoHS compliant, but there is nothing in the data sheets that mention what RP means. Most AG fuses which are made for Automotive use have a Voltage Rating: 32V AC/DC __________________ 2022 1/2 Templar X 250 - 6 gear model - 13 Front / 40 Rear Sprockets - #42 / #120 Jets - 1mm thick nitrile O-ring needle shim (removed) - Kenda K761 Dual Sport Tires - Sedona Standard Thickness Inner Tubes - Stock OEM battery, carburetor, spark plug still going strong - https://youtu.be/dhAYEKH-jFQ Texas Pete's Templar X 250 Torque Specifications Sheet Texas Pete's Engine Displacement Calculator Texas Pete's Tire and Rim Compatibility
	0

11-08-2023, 01:25 PM	#15
GypsyR Join Date: Feb 2023 Location: Upstate SC Posts: 272	Yet another Loc-Tite tip. When I had the seat off (again) I noticed that the rear brackets are (supposed) to be held to the plastic seat pan by two little screws in each. One of mine had gone and its mate loose. Turns out there are tiny nuts in the plastic pan that not secured terribly well. My nut had flipped over sideways, I had to flip it back square with a pick. I was able to match up the (tiny) missing screw out of my parts stash but it was very much an oddball. Really difficult to tighten these suckers, even pressing hard on the cushion. Even harder to get them to start after you've taken one out. So actually instead of Loc-Tite I believe giving them a little tighten and then putting a dab of like hot glue or other glue over the head of the screw might be better preventative maintenance. It would at least keep you from losing the screws maybe If I ever take the upholstery off my seat this is something I will definitely improve upon with some larger nutserts or something.
	0