BRAKE BLEEDING?

Arcticmonster · 10-02-2011, 05:12 PM

I am trying to bleed the rear brake on my X31 GIO. Now I can bleed brakes on other atv's, rhino's etc, but this one, doesn't seem to want to even push any liquid out the bleeder screw? Is there a trick to these ones?

goofyexponent · 10-02-2011, 05:49 PM

What I would do to this is fill the master up. Then take a couple OLD NO GOOD cd's and tape/glue them together.

Think I am nuts yet? Good. I really am!

Remove the caliper from the sliders, and plkace the two glued/taped CD's in between the pads....like your rotor would fit in there.

Get the caliper HIGHER than he master to allow air to move UP and towards the bleeder.....pump a couple times and then open the bleeder. Do this two or three times, and then put the caliper down on the swing arm.

DO NOT LET IT HANG BY IT"S HOSE.

Fill the master again, but do not raise the caliper with the cover off the master. Continue this until ONLY fluid comes out. I had to do this to my CR250R a couple times. It was the ONLY that thing would bleed. a ROYAL P.I.T.A (pain in the a....well, you get it) but it worked!

Good luck and post back what you make of it.

Justin Beiber CD's works the best.....

Weldangrind · 10-03-2011, 11:05 AM

Another option is to use a vacuum bleeder. They can be had for relatively cheap now, and it precludes you from needing to have the caliper higher than the master (just like a car).

Arcticmonster · 10-04-2011, 06:12 AM

With the top of the OIL reservoir off, it's not pushing much to the caliper. If I remove the bleeder screw all the way then a little bit of OIL comes out, but That's not how to get it done.

Will look at one of them vacuum thingies.

Arcticmonster · 10-17-2011, 08:28 AM

It's the BLEEDER SCREW that is plugged up. Trying to clean it out is a pain in the butt.....

Winter is almost here, so no RUSH anymore

Cheers

Weldangrind · 10-17-2011, 10:25 AM

You could try a welding tip cleaner; they're usually pretty cheap.

FLASHLIGHTBOY · 10-19-2011, 10:01 PM

first take the bleed screw out ... and make sure it is clear... re-install... take the calipher off and push the pads back into the calipher.. install a block of wood or something to take up the space between the pads... make sure the master clyinder is full... and slowly pump the brakes... once you have pressure then bleed.. make sure you always check the mastercylinder to keep the fluid up... with the pistions pushed in.. you do not need much oil movement to get the remaining air out..... mosr people do not push the pads back to get the air out.. and then this also limits how much fluid is required to move the pads... the rear brake system does not move much fluid to apply the brakes... I like bleeding the front brakes better as they are self bleeding... please let us knwo if this worked for you.. thanks

FastDoc · 10-19-2011, 11:22 PM

My Ford Ranger had a plugged bleeder screw.

I like the CD method, raising the caliper, if convienent, is a good idea.

I use a vacuum bleeder. $20 or so at HF. 8)

Good investment. :wink:

Arcticmonster · 10-20-2011, 10:32 AM

I now need a new bleeder screw.

Will any standard bleeder screw work?

I was trying to clean it, it was jammed good. then I tried a drill, it broke in, busting the top of the screw.

FastDoc · 10-20-2011, 11:16 AM

I think there are only a few standard types. Bring it to your auto parts store and have the counterman match it up.

10-02-2011, 05:12 PM	#1
Arcticmonster Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 32	BRAKE BLEEDING? I am trying to bleed the rear brake on my X31 GIO. Now I can bleed brakes on other atv's, rhino's etc, but this one, doesn't seem to want to even push any liquid out the bleeder screw? Is there a trick to these ones?
	0

10-02-2011, 05:49 PM	#2
goofyexponent Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Halifax, N.S. Posts: 145	What I would do to this is fill the master up. Then take a couple OLD NO GOOD cd's and tape/glue them together. Think I am nuts yet? Good. I really am! Remove the caliper from the sliders, and plkace the two glued/taped CD's in between the pads....like your rotor would fit in there. Get the caliper HIGHER than he master to allow air to move UP and towards the bleeder.....pump a couple times and then open the bleeder. Do this two or three times, and then put the caliper down on the swing arm. DO NOT LET IT HANG BY IT"S HOSE. Fill the master again, but do not raise the caliper with the cover off the master. Continue this until ONLY fluid comes out. I had to do this to my CR250R a couple times. It was the ONLY that thing would bleed. a ROYAL P.I.T.A (pain in the a....well, you get it) but it worked! Good luck and post back what you make of it. Justin Beiber CD's works the best..... __________________ Gio X31 Paid $440 for the bike new in the crate! Currently a modified, high compression, head turning MONSTER!
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10-03-2011, 11:05 AM	#3
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	Another option is to use a vacuum bleeder. They can be had for relatively cheap now, and it precludes you from needing to have the caliper higher than the master (just like a car). __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
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10-17-2011, 10:25 AM	#6
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	You could try a welding tip cleaner; they're usually pretty cheap. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

10-19-2011, 10:01 PM	#7
FLASHLIGHTBOY Join Date: May 2009 Location: SASKATOON Posts: 1,161	bleeding brake first take the bleed screw out ... and make sure it is clear... re-install... take the calipher off and push the pads back into the calipher.. install a block of wood or something to take up the space between the pads... make sure the master clyinder is full... and slowly pump the brakes... once you have pressure then bleed.. make sure you always check the mastercylinder to keep the fluid up... with the pistions pushed in.. you do not need much oil movement to get the remaining air out..... mosr people do not push the pads back to get the air out.. and then this also limits how much fluid is required to move the pads... the rear brake system does not move much fluid to apply the brakes... I like bleeding the front brakes better as they are self bleeding... please let us knwo if this worked for you.. thanks __________________ DEALER FOR ZSTAR & GIO PRODUCTS, TAOTAO ABIBABA ATV ETC
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10-04-2011, 06:12 AM	#4
Arcticmonster Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 32	With the top of the OIL reservoir off, it's not pushing much to the caliper. If I remove the bleeder screw all the way then a little bit of OIL comes out, but That's not how to get it done. Will look at one of them vacuum thingies.
	0

10-17-2011, 08:28 AM	#5
Arcticmonster Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 32	It's the BLEEDER SCREW that is plugged up. Trying to clean it out is a pain in the butt..... Winter is almost here, so no RUSH anymore Cheers
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10-19-2011, 11:22 PM	#8
FastDoc Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Southeastern Washington desert Posts: 14,761	My Ford Ranger had a plugged bleeder screw. I like the CD method, raising the caliper, if convienent, is a good idea. I use a vacuum bleeder. $20 or so at HF. 8) Good investment. :wink: __________________ Happy to serve.
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10-20-2011, 10:32 AM	#9
Arcticmonster Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 32	I now need a new bleeder screw. Will any standard bleeder screw work? I was trying to clean it, it was jammed good. then I tried a drill, it broke in, busting the top of the screw.
	0

10-20-2011, 11:16 AM	#10
FastDoc Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Southeastern Washington desert Posts: 14,761	I think there are only a few standard types. Bring it to your auto parts store and have the counterman match it up. __________________ Happy to serve.
	0