Soon to be Rhino owner - Page 3

evanb143 · 05-13-2016, 10:31 AM

I am not really interested in speed was just curious. It will be used on hunting land mainly and will prob never be past second gear, the land I own is way to rough for speed!!!! I will have to check into the led lights however. I will be out at night. Thanks for info.

Darth Racer · 05-13-2016, 09:17 AM

I was in the same situation. The problem with some of those old ATV's is you can no longer get parts for some of them. No telling what has been patched up to get rid of it either.

I believe there is a speed limiter screw setting that might be holding your speed back. Not sure where the screw is.. only owned the Rhino for a day. I'm sure some of the guys here know.

evanb143 · 05-13-2016, 09:18 AM

Oh yeah I took the limit screw out. I am old enough to control my speed. Forgot to say that!

Darth Racer · 05-13-2016, 11:19 AM

Just finished getting it rolling. It's safe in the backyard now. The rain chased me inside.

Those plastic foot covers are gonna need some work to fit. I heard they were tough but DAMNNNN!!

I took a quick peek at the headlight bulb last night. I want to try changing the bulb to an actual LED upgrade bulb. I found these which look close https://www.ledlight.com/1156-1157-a...ed-lights.aspx most of them can be selected with a similar mount post.

Mudflap · 05-13-2016, 11:31 AM

"The motor is the 167FMM so my worries of getting the smaller 200cc engine are over."

The engine in mine is labeled 171FMM but actual measurement shows it's 63.5mm X 62.2mm so should have been labeled 163FML (200cc). Doubt there is much difference in power between the two.

2LZ · 05-13-2016, 12:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mudflap

"The motor is the 167FMM so my worries of getting the smaller 200cc engine are over."

The engine in mine is labeled 171FMM but actual measurement shows it's 63.5mm X 62.2mm so should have been labeled 163FML (200cc). Doubt there is much difference in power between the two.

I'd like to measure mine on some bored afternoon. The 167FMM is etched into the case. It SHOULD measure out a 67 bore and 65 stroke, just like the TT250, making it a 229.5cc.
The CG motors are so docile though, even if it did measure out correctly, I doubt there would be much difference. They're all about reliability and longevity, not thundering power.

Darth Racer · 05-13-2016, 11:35 AM

Okay so you can't go by the sticker on the motor. That sucks. Just want to get as close to 250cc as I can... need the mules.

Darth Racer · 05-13-2016, 12:27 PM

Scratch what I posted about those LED's.. won't work.

Looks like the bulb is PX15d/P15D25/H6M any of those three series. Not sure if my lights are AC or DC and if like other stuff on the bike + is ground. I read some comments the TaoTao's may be AC

Finding plenty of LED bulbs in those series on Amazon.. just not sure if the polarity on mine is normal. I know LED's are picky what is - and what is + or they wont light up.

It would be nice to be able to use the headlights that came on the Rhino as actual functional headlights.

LOL I figured out why the rear axle is 6 inches too short on the Rhino. It's so they can fit it in the crate. Screw rideability I guess.. just get it in the smallest crate you can. Would be nice if they threw in a set of wheel adapters to get the wheelbase right.

2LZ · 05-13-2016, 01:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darth Racer

Scratch what I posted about those LED's.. won't work.

Looks like the bulb is PX15d/P15D25/H6M any of those three series. Not sure if my lights are AC or DC and if like other stuff on the bike + is ground. I read some comments the TaoTao's may be AC

Finding plenty of LED bulbs in those series on Amazon.. just not sure if the polarity on mine is normal. I know LED's are picky what is - and what is + or they wont light up.

It would be nice to be able to use the headlights that came on the Rhino as actual functional headlights.

LOL I figured out why the rear axle is 6 inches too short on the Rhino. It's so they can fit it in the crate. Screw rideability I guess.. just get it in the smallest crate you can. Would be nice if they threw in a set of wheel adapters to get the wheelbase right.

I was told by my dealer in Sac that with the more narrow rear, it makes it easier to turn , especially for the "under-experienced". Whether that's BS or not, I don't know. Here's the spacers I ordered.

http://www.amazon.com/Factory-Spec-F...ilpage_o07_s00

Darth Racer · 05-13-2016, 01:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2LZ

I was told by my dealer in Sac that with the more narrow rear, it makes it easier to turn , especially for the "under-experienced". Whether that's BS or not, I don't know. Here's the spacers I ordered.

http://www.amazon.com/Factory-Spec-F...ilpage_o07_s00

LOL after seeing it in the crate and the rear axles close to the edge I think your local dealer is BS'ing you.

2LZ · 05-13-2016, 01:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darth Racer

LOL after seeing it in the crate and the rear axles close to the edge I think your local dealer is BS'ing you.

That's what I'd figured also...but the odd thing is there are many quads out there of different sizes that have a narrower rear end. One would think it would be easier to make a wider crate out of that garbage angle iron they used for it. I saved it for making stuff but boy does it spatter!

Darth Racer · 05-13-2016, 05:32 PM

Okay didn't know that about other ATV's ... if they are non clone origin then will take back my comment to what the dealer said... I just don't trust dealers.

The thing to keep in mind though is a wider crate takes up more space in the shipping container. But that sort of takes me back to my original comment. Even the Honda's are shipped in crates which are packed into shipping containers to the dealers.

I have a HF budget welder... Splatter is my middle name. LOL maybe the combination of cheap welder and cheap steel will equal no splatter. One of these days I have to do the DC conversion mod to the welder so it works like it's supposed to. It looks like they brazed my crate. One of the cross braces popped in transit.

2LZ · 05-13-2016, 05:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darth Racer

I just don't trust dealers.

I have a HF budget welder... Splatter is my middle name. LOL

LOL! I see we have the same taste in dealers....AND welders!
I installed all 20 amp outlets in my garage and I have to admit, that little welder sticks stuff together better than I was expecting. It won't leave you looking like Rembrandt, but for as often as I weld, I couldn't cost justify anything more expensive.

Darth Racer · 05-13-2016, 10:11 PM

There is a mod out there that converts the output to a DC voltage like a welder is supposed to be. The cheapo HF one is AC output .. it's why you get the booger welds.

LOL all dealers are crooks by nature. My local dealer wanted to charge me $2000 for the Rhino. LOL you could just tell by the look in his face he was going to molest you on the warranty work too.

Darth Racer · 05-14-2016, 04:46 PM

Got to do some work on the Rhino today before the rain chased me back in.......

Added very expensive atmosphere to increase roundness....

Got to work on the winch mounts....

All welded up.. just need some U bolts to lock it all down....

05-13-2016, 10:31 AM	#1
evanb143 Join Date: May 2016 Posts: 14	I am not really interested in speed was just curious. It will be used on hunting land mainly and will prob never be past second gear, the land I own is way to rough for speed!!!! I will have to check into the led lights however. I will be out at night. Thanks for info.
	0

05-13-2016, 09:17 AM	#2
Darth Racer Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: MD Posts: 558	I was in the same situation. The problem with some of those old ATV's is you can no longer get parts for some of them. No telling what has been patched up to get rid of it either. I believe there is a speed limiter screw setting that might be holding your speed back. Not sure where the screw is.. only owned the Rhino for a day. I'm sure some of the guys here know.
	0

05-13-2016, 09:18 AM	#3
evanb143 Join Date: May 2016 Posts: 14	Oh yeah I took the limit screw out. I am old enough to control my speed. Forgot to say that!
	0

05-13-2016, 11:19 AM	#4
Darth Racer Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: MD Posts: 558	Just finished getting it rolling. It's safe in the backyard now. The rain chased me inside. Those plastic foot covers are gonna need some work to fit. I heard they were tough but DAMNNNN!! I took a quick peek at the headlight bulb last night. I want to try changing the bulb to an actual LED upgrade bulb. I found these which look close https://www.ledlight.com/1156-1157-a...ed-lights.aspx most of them can be selected with a similar mount post.
	0

05-13-2016, 11:31 AM	#5
Mudflap Join Date: Sep 2014 Posts: 1,871	"The motor is the 167FMM so my worries of getting the smaller 200cc engine are over." The engine in mine is labeled 171FMM but actual measurement shows it's 63.5mm X 62.2mm so should have been labeled 163FML (200cc). Doubt there is much difference in power between the two.
	0

05-13-2016, 11:35 AM	#7
Darth Racer Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: MD Posts: 558	Okay so you can't go by the sticker on the motor. That sucks. Just want to get as close to 250cc as I can... need the mules.
	0

05-13-2016, 12:27 PM	#8
Darth Racer Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: MD Posts: 558	Scratch what I posted about those LED's.. won't work. Looks like the bulb is PX15d/P15D25/H6M any of those three series. Not sure if my lights are AC or DC and if like other stuff on the bike + is ground. I read some comments the TaoTao's may be AC Finding plenty of LED bulbs in those series on Amazon.. just not sure if the polarity on mine is normal. I know LED's are picky what is - and what is + or they wont light up. It would be nice to be able to use the headlights that came on the Rhino as actual functional headlights. LOL I figured out why the rear axle is 6 inches too short on the Rhino. It's so they can fit it in the crate. Screw rideability I guess.. just get it in the smallest crate you can. Would be nice if they threw in a set of wheel adapters to get the wheelbase right.
	0

05-13-2016, 05:32 PM	#12
Darth Racer Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: MD Posts: 558	Okay didn't know that about other ATV's ... if they are non clone origin then will take back my comment to what the dealer said... I just don't trust dealers. The thing to keep in mind though is a wider crate takes up more space in the shipping container. But that sort of takes me back to my original comment. Even the Honda's are shipped in crates which are packed into shipping containers to the dealers. I have a HF budget welder... Splatter is my middle name. LOL maybe the combination of cheap welder and cheap steel will equal no splatter. One of these days I have to do the DC conversion mod to the welder so it works like it's supposed to. It looks like they brazed my crate. One of the cross braces popped in transit.
	0

05-13-2016, 10:11 PM	#14
Darth Racer Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: MD Posts: 558	There is a mod out there that converts the output to a DC voltage like a welder is supposed to be. The cheapo HF one is AC output .. it's why you get the booger welds. LOL all dealers are crooks by nature. My local dealer wanted to charge me $2000 for the Rhino. LOL you could just tell by the look in his face he was going to molest you on the warranty work too.
	0

05-14-2016, 04:46 PM	#15
Darth Racer Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: MD Posts: 558	Got to do some work on the Rhino today before the rain chased me back in....... Added very expensive atmosphere to increase roundness.... Got to work on the winch mounts.... All welded up.. just need some U bolts to lock it all down....
	0