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Old 06-26-2022, 06:52 AM   #46
Lukas   Lukas is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: A small Polish empire
Posts: 244
I have removed the trunks and only sometimes screw in the center trunk the bike without the trunks is much lighter and rides better and you should remove them bob, if you do not use them without them you can reduce the spring preload a little to make the bike softer because they do not load the rear of my rx3/4 because it is 300cc, after removing the trunks it became very hard and this is the best proof that they weigh. i am also thinking about changing the front gmol to a smaller one, making the passenger footpegs out of tubes instead of casting and changing the heavy casting on which the central plastic trunk is mounted to the tubular holder for the metal trunk. bob unscrew all the trunks, adjust the suspension and ride without the trunks, the rear of the motorcycle will be leveraged so you can let go of the spring and it will not hit the rear so much on bumps due to the reduced weight.


 
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Old 06-26-2022, 07:00 AM   #47
Lukas   Lukas is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: A small Polish empire
Posts: 244
I'm curious what the Chinese had in their heads, making a tab just where the wheel meets the fender.
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Old 07-07-2022, 02:17 AM   #48
devildog3521   devildog3521 is offline
 
Join Date: May 2020
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Chris , yes the first gear is 100% garbage .


 
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Old 07-07-2022, 09:21 AM   #49
Bob Kelly   Bob Kelly is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Weed, California.
Posts: 271
LOL Hay Lukas I cut those screw tabs off with a reciprocating saw ! my tire was just going to take them out anyway ! and I have a hole just above where they were from a short ride, and the tire rubbed... on every small bump !!!! ( i had a RX3 spring on there)... but I think I have that sorted now
I made a new lower link that is 5/8" between centers, longer than the stock lower link wish bone looking thing I used 3 layers of 1/8"x 1.5"x 7" and then trimmed them to fit and welded them to a tube I made of 1 1/2" diam. steel with a 3/4" bore through it and incerted a bronze bushing in it....... it's ugly because I did not clean it up just left it the raw weld and painted it black ! HAHAHAH
but I put on my 500lb spring and the new lower link and now the fender shouldn't rub at all and it's still 30" seat height ! ( a tad less as it does squat a tiny bit when I set on it now....and it NEVER did that before!)
..... I also had to remove the lower bolt on the headlight and bend the bracket on it so I could tilt the headlight down it was pointing 10' high on the house 20' away !
....
the bike seams to be a real good tractor it will lug down without stalling quite good....
but I am braking it in and don't do that much ! LOL.... got 163miles on it now !....
and I think I will change the oil at 200 miles ! HAHAHAH the more I ride this heavy pig the more I like it !
Miss Piggy is a good name for her I think !!! <GRIN>
........But I like having those boxes on there... I got places to put stuff when I go to the store or want to find a bungee cord... there in there ! along with a air pump, tire patching kit ,pole winch ,water bottle and first aid kit... and rain poncho...( if I can find it!) with my knife on my hip I am ready for anything ! HAHAHAH
.....

Bob.......
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Last edited by Bob Kelly; 08-13-2022 at 07:46 AM.
 
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Old 08-13-2022, 08:16 AM   #50
Bob Kelly   Bob Kelly is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Weed, California.
Posts: 271
For some reason I have not ridden any of my bikes much this summer, I just didn't feel like it.... so my milage of 163miles on the RX4 still stands.
I did manage to get my High idle down to 1600 RPM when it's warm and that is a big improvement.... I think it was so high because of my altitude here right at 3800' ASL
I don't think anyone in the flat lands and low altitude will have that problem(it just takes about 3 or 4 days for the ECU to learn where to set everything) so if your idle is fast when you first get the bike, give it a few days to LEARN it's surroundings!...That's what Joey at CSC told me!
I used HUD ECU Hacker to modify a patch and then put it in there and had no problems in doing that. but the learning curve was steep and getting the right connectors is really hard... only one will work to my knowledge the J2534 Adaptor by Tactrix the cable that plugs into the ECU on the bike is fairly easy to find ...the J2534 Adaptor plugs into that
and then into your lap top via a USB cable
..... it took me about a month to figure it out it's not a fast proccess !
.......
on lowering my bike I raised the front forks in the tripple trees, I had to move the handle bars to get the top of the fork tubes 2" higher and then locked them down
on the rear I tried several things first was just taking out all the preload on the rear shock spring.... that indeed lowered the bike ...BUT it also bottomed out the shock !
so that didn't work I was forced to make a new lower link for the rear suspension that came out exactly 5/8" longer between centers on the bolt holes on the stock lower link
that lowered the rear a long way about 2 1/4" I rode it like that a few times and discovered the tire was rubbing on the fender-well so I cranked down the pre load enough so it wouldn't rub any more.... I had to put tape over the hole that the tire made and surprisingly enough it's still on there.... if and when I ever take that fender well off of there I will plastic weld a piece of PVC pipe that has been split and flattened
over that small hole....( with a soldering iron LOL)
the Rear shock spring I finally landed on is a 500lb spring 2 1/4" id.and 10" long from Racetech
....even though I got 3 springs from YoungBlood....the one I bought is the one I wound up using and replacing the stock spring, that softened the ride a great deal, though it is still on the stiff side.
....
So I believe the bike is ready to go now.... I still might mess with the ECU and try to get rid of that rough idle by enriching up everything I can find LOL 14.62 AFR is too darn lean ! Although I have been told that that may not be very easy as the O2 sensor will try to put it back no matter where I put it at....so.... i'll have to play with that for a while....
.....


Bob.......
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Old 08-13-2022, 08:42 AM   #51
Bob Kelly   Bob Kelly is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Weed, California.
Posts: 271
I don't know about that Lukas ! what kind of oil should be in the shock ? I have no doubt that the oil they put in the shocks is probably a poor one .... but the amount of oil you put in a shock is very important..... that includes the front forks ...
No doubt the ride can really be changed by changing the oil in the suspension but this is a CSC bike and no information is given on changing the rear shock oil on it... so your on your own...
I finally got my seat height to 30" and wound up having to remove more on the side stand so far I have removed 1 1/2" on the side stand just so it will not tip over in the wind on the pavement !
....
Bob......
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Old 08-13-2022, 10:07 AM   #52
Lukas   Lukas is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: A small Polish empire
Posts: 244
Bob, if you do not know what oil, you pour the best in this case to the rear there is only one density rally so there is no other choice but the KYB shock oil vortex, as for the amount of oil you will not find anywhere info how much should be ml the only solution is to know the operation of the shock absorber and then the problem solved I have been the body of the old rx3 shock absorber itself I will make a tutorial, when it is cold how to change the oil and how much should be and it will be the only video on YouTube that will solve this problem for many people.


 
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