My TMEC 200-1 by Excalibur

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OK, first pic is brake glass on kickstand. Bubble is a little over half full.Second is bike standing straight. Bubble gone! Third pic is what i used to take out excess fluid. Was just like one and a half squirts into a paper towel and it was at half full. Though I didn't get a chance to take it out and test it.

[SpudRider]

I just looked at your photographs. If you bleed the brake fluid to the proper level, you should be okay. However, I suggest you also examine the brake pads. If they are worn too low, you need to replace them.

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by footer

OK, first pic is brake glass on kickstand. Bubble is a little over half full.Second is bike standing straight. Bubble gone! Third pic is what i used to take out excess fluid. Was just like one and a half squirts into a paper towel and it was at half full. Though I didn't get a chance to take it out and test it.

That probably worked. Make sure you press the brake pedal several times before you go riding. Also, I do suggest you read the thread I posted regarding bleeding the brakes.

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Oh and told friend what you thought it might be, and he is skeptical. So I bet him 5 dollars that will fix it. Makes sense to me. So you better be right! Haha

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ok so brakes were still dragging. back disc really hot, could smell it burning by the time i pulled in driveway. guessing i should do the bleed the brakes like thou suggested, lol. ill try that tomorrow. off to find that link again.

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ok looking at getting some new handlebars, like the red pro taper ones but when i select size, style. i think its 7/8ths, but what would the style be called?

oh and the brakes are still giving me problems. guy is here to take a look at now.

[SpudRider]

You can choose any style you like. I suggest you consider the Tusk T-10 handlebars in CR High Bend style. I have these handlebars installed on my Honda XR650L, and I like them a lot.

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...k%20handlebars



You have a color choice of either black, blue, red, or silver.

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ok got that handlebar, bought pro taper grips, **any recommendations *** for hand brush guards? i been finding myself off road a lot more than i expected. and i am loving this bike!!!

oh and any ideas on the brakes? drained some out, no luck. bled line, no luck… my friend doesn't know, but i would think they are set too tight? like i need to adjust them? my friend just thinks the pads were too big. that i just need to wear them down. which I'm pretty sure he told me not to drive it when it gets warm, so not sure what to do.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
these are the hand guards i ordered, universal should work I'm thinking??

[SpudRider]

Those hand guards should work. Regarding your rear brake, I would follow your friend's advice, and see how things work out. He physically inspected your rear brake, and I have not.

If the brake pads are too large, you could remove them and grind them down a little with either a dremel tool, or an angle grinder. If this succeeds, I would certainly try to get slimmer brakes pads in the future.

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by SpudRider

If the brake pads are too large, you could remove them and grind them down a little with either a dremel tool, or an angle grinder. If this succeeds, I would certainly try to get slimmer brakes pads in the future.

If you choose to grind the brake pads, please wear a dust mask. Also, just chamfer the leading edges of the pad a little, not the pad face.

[SpudRider]

Yes, do wear a dust mask, and grind slowly.

Weld, if he is going to reduce the width of the brake pads, he will need to grind the entire brake pad, including the pad face. When I grind the Zong's brake pads to prevent brake squealing, I place the cutting wheel perpendicular to the face of the brake pad. Wearing a mask, I lightly touch the dremel tool to the surface of the brake pad, and remove the slightest amount of material possible. This method creates very little dust, and ensures I don't remove too much material, or gouge the surface of the brake pad.

If his friend is correct, and the brake pads are too thick, he shouldn't need to remove too much material before he notices an improvement. Alternatively, he can just keep riding, and wear the pads down a little, or he can search for thinner brake pads. Of course, his friend could be wrong.

Weld, what do you think is causing the problem?

[Weldangrind]

I'm not sure, but I'm wondering about the MC and the caliper. Parts are cheap enough that they could be replaced on spec.

[SpudRider]

Owning a Zong, I'm much less familiar with the Hondoid parts. I imagine the rear brake parts are generic Chinese.

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Yeah we really haven't gotten into the brakes yet, but tonight or tomorrow going to check into it a bit more. Thing is they are free when the bike is off, when ridingi think its after I use the brakes they stick. Not positive on that but seems like it to me.

I'm putting the handlebars on right now. The original bars had a whole on the bottom where a slot in the turn signal slips into. The new bars don't have a hole, but I could drill one if its important. Or I could just bend the tab up so the mount sits flush. How important is it?

[SpudRider]

I have encountered that situation several times when changing handlebars on my motorcycles. Personally, I either bend, or remove the tab. The tab is there to prevent the control from rotating on the handlebars. If the fit is tight, the tab is not required. If the fit is loose, wrap some electrical tape around the handlebars before you install the controls.