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Old 03-16-2022, 07:45 PM   #1
TxTaoRider   TxTaoRider is offline
 
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If you don't adjust the valve lash they'll be hard to start.
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Old 03-16-2022, 08:43 PM   #2
kyle   kyle is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TxTaoRider View Post
If you don't adjust the valve lash they'll be hard to start.
Also this! Good point:. https://tbr7.com/upgrades/engine/


 
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Old 04-12-2022, 03:16 PM   #3
Megadan   Megadan is offline
 
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Originally Posted by kyle View Post
-You'll actually want the clutch slightly tight.. it'll stretch in its first few heat cycles.
-The shifter loosens up as you ride and break it in.
-Smoke is normal.. sometimes last 10 minutes on first start, shouldn't come back
-shoot the disk with brake clean and make sure your rear brake is adjusted properly, could be only partially engaging if the rear brake pedal isn't adjusted properly
-Stock batteries are hit and miss. Mine lasted 6 months then crapped out, others went out after a few weeks.. new ones are cheap: https://tbr7.com/upgrades/electrical

Make sure you hit all the essentials (oil, chain tension, etc): https://tbr7.com/assembly/
Quote:
Originally Posted by TxTaoRider View Post
If you don't adjust the valve lash they'll be hard to start.
All the answers you need.

My addition. If you used the brakes before cleaning them, remove the pads and also spray them with brake parts cleaner. Otherwise they will remain contaminated and it can seep into the pad material as they get hot.

As for valve lash, during break in I just follow the TT250 recommendation of setting both valves to .07mm since the lash will shrink in the first few hundred miles. Then at the first oil change set the lash to .05mm for both valves for a good balance between noise and service intervals.

Also, at the main ground point on the engine - between the starter and clutch arm on the back of the case - remove the bolt and cable and sand off the engine paint. This will help with getting a better ground. Hit it with some anti-corrosion spray or put some anti-seize on the bolt threads when re-installing.

My own personal upgrade I do with the ground is to up the main ground strap wire. I use this chonky boy, but you could also make your own with some crimp ends. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...0?ie=UTF8&th=1
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Old 04-12-2022, 10:02 PM   #4
Ol,fart   Ol,fart is offline
 
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Location: Gatesville Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Megadan View Post
All the answers you need.

My addition. If you used the brakes before cleaning them, remove the pads and also spray them with brake parts cleaner. Otherwise they will remain contaminated and it can seep into the pad material as they get hot.

As for valve lash, during break in I just follow the TT250 recommendation of setting both valves to .07mm since the lash will shrink in the first few hundred miles. Then at the first oil change set the lash to .05mm for both valves for a good balance between noise and service intervals.

Also, at the main ground point on the engine - between the starter and clutch arm on the back of the case - remove the bolt and cable and sand off the engine paint. This will help with getting a better ground. Hit it with some anti-corrosion spray or put some anti-seize on the bolt threads when re-installing.

My own personal upgrade I do with the ground is to up the main ground strap wire. I use this chonky boy, but you could also make your own with some crimp ends. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...0?ie=UTF8&th=1
My favorite spray for electric connections and grounds is the old copper coat head gasket spray, last forever. Extra ground are always a good idea (engine, frame and battery)
If you ever have repeated bearing or bushing failure in anything-add grounds ! Electrolysis is a Bitch
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