BD125-15 Vader gen 1 chain tension question

[sirmaxwell]

Originally Posted by RedCrowRides

You dont have to drill any holes , it clamps onto the swingarm , and you can use the chain guard with it as well. I'll try to get a pic up today ,in fact when i get the pic i'll try to edit it into this post . Takes maybe 5 - 10 minutes to install it and thats if you spend

5 of the 10 minutes finding the right allen wrench like me lol .

Oh sweet man. Thanks. Thats good. It sounds pretty easy if it clamps on and hasnt caused you any trouble at top speed Im assuming, then it sounds like it may be a worthy part for mods

awww dang bro...I have to edit this because I just looked it up and I can only find that tensioner shipping from CHina...Meaning I either wait a month or more for delivery or pay $20 shipping to get it in a week or two...hmm it looks nice enough though so I will keep searching other places like Amazon for it to see if anyone is shipping it at a reasonable price from AMerica

[sirmaxwell]

Originally Posted by Whisky

I personally wouldn't be running straight synthetic oil for break in period, that's just me, maybe it doesn't matter. My bike vibrates too but not as much as it did but I also have changed some of the China parts out. .

What oil do you reccomend? I appreciate if you have a brand but more important is the weight & syn or non syn and any specific API or other oil institution certifications plus if it has any additives that it mentions on the label. I feel the brand is a little less important than the info when reccomending just becuz I might not be able to get the same oil in my small town in CT as you do wherever you are.
I ran my bike for almost 2 hrs today, idling a mostly plus about 8 miles here and there between idling in my driveway with one 3-4 mile unbroken ride at the end and I hope that wasnt too long to run it for during break in. The bike now has 13 miles and maybe 3-4 hrs tops on it. It idled fine after initial start--it seems at least a little lean with fairly low level and intermittent popping if I rev it to 5k rpms then quickly drop it to idle plus it doesnt seem too smooth in gears at low-mid rpms--which might be the gearing or might be partially idle or part break in period also. Maybe part my sh*tty shifting Im working on!! At the end of my ride it stalled when I was going maybe 25,in 4th after slowing down and had just pulled the clutch in to initiate downshift when it stalled. That has happened to me once in awhile rarely maybe if i shift bad or dont downshift at correct speed/rpm although I thought it shouldnt stall in any gear at any speed while squeezing clutch all the way in?? but this time it kept happening and I had a little trouble getting to true N to restart-- it kept saying N then bucking if I let go of clutch to get off the bike while idling. Then it finally got to N and I noticed it was not idling good as it had been the last 2 hrs and it stalled a couple times + I smelled a little burning smell so I called it as soon as I smelled that and didnt restart again. Im hoping i didnt overheat the clutch or engine at all by running it 2 hrs straight including the 4 miles at the end was up a quarter mile road, turn around go thru all the gears up then some downshifting then repeat 16 times. I got the bike up to almost 6k rpms today up from 5k last time and around 35mph+ but less than 40 on speedo...

Is all what I described terrible for break in period? My idea was if I idle it for half of the time the first couple oil changes it will be an ok low rpm break in plus I can go work or do other things while the bike is idling/breaking itself in some.

As always any answers would be greatly appreciated because while i have some knowledge of various things, this is my first brand new motorcycle and I haven't owned a real motorcycle before, only used China scooters and briefly a couple used Jap dirtbikes....SO as far as what to expect and any tricks of the trade specific to motorcycles and especially the Vader I have I am pretty much a mildly mechanically inclined NOOB--although I don't like to admit it!!lol BUT I am working on not being a NOOB after this year in my defense

[sirmaxwell]

Originally Posted by imapdog

i would give it a couple easy laps to see if it stretches into correct fit. these chains will stretch in first 10 miles or so. i am assuming it s new

what oil would you reccomend? ANy particular brand? WHat weight? Syn or natural or Blend?? Any special clutch additives listed on the oil or to add seperately? Any API or oter oil certifications to look for. Thanks!

[sirmaxwell]

Originally Posted by RedCrowRides

In .

Thanks for your Help RedCrowRides AND everyone else who I am quoting and repeating myself in hopes of more likely getting multiple answers.

what oil would you reccomend? ANy particular brand? WHat weight? Syn or natural or Blend?? Any special clutch additives listed on the oil or to add seperately? Any API or oter oil certifications to look for.

Also should I use same oil from the first oil change during break in until the bike hits the scrapyard (or I die, whichever comes 1st!) Or should I use one oil for break in then switch to another??? I started with 10W-40 Mobil 4T Full Synthetic (4sTroke) Racing Motorcycle oil with the best/newest API oil certification I could find for my first and only oil change I have done when I got the bike before I ever started it and it now has 13 miles/3.5 or so hrs on it with a lot of idling to charge battery since I heard of battery issues plus idle it to break it in...The oil still looks new at a quick glance at the dipstick--BUT I plan on changing it maybe in another 10 miles or couple hrs of running if I idle it--just to get out ny metal shavings that I am assuming are worst or pretty bad the 1st oil change

Thanks!!!

[RedCrowRides]

Man that oil thing will get you many different answers , my Owners Manual for my Vader says to use Synthetic oil, but make sure it specifies on the bottle that it is wet clutch compatible .
My own experience with wet clutches has led me to believe that full synthetic oil is not so great with them ,especially when you are dealing with chinese ( read cheap ) clutch plates. So, i run Rotella ( i thinks its T4 ) 10-40 Diesel compatible regular motor oil .,it is wet clutch compatible and the diesel designation means it can tolerate high heat and contaminants that these small hard revving and working engines produce even though they are not diesel. Here in FLA it is scorching hot in summer , then i run a 15 -40 Rotella of the same type .


whether you run synthetic or "normal" is up to you , the most important thing is make sure it specifies on the bottle that it is wet clutch compatible ,many full synth oils are NOT and will ruin your clutch plates bc they are too "slippery" . I have never used any oil additives so i cant offer any advice or opinion on them ,personally i think they are "snake oil" that either dont do anything or people are hoping to mask a mechanical condition that needs addressing by adding them to " get by".



As far as the chain tensioner goes, maybe you can find a stateside supplier on Ebay or amazon, if not poke around on the internet on some of the bigger MX parts sites ,that style chain tensioner is real common on dirt bikes ,they should have some .I did order mine from China on EBay and yeah it took a while to get here.

[sirmaxwell]

Originally Posted by RedCrowRides

Man that oil thing will get you many different answers , my Owners Manual for my Vader says to use Synthetic oil, but make sure it specifies on the bottle that it is wet clutch compatible .
My own experience with wet clutches has led me to believe that full synthetic oil is not so great with them ,especially when you are dealing with chinese ( read cheap ) clutch plates. So, i run Rotella ( i thinks its T4 ) 10-40 Diesel compatible regular motor oil .,it is wet clutch compatible and the diesel designation means it can tolerate high heat and contaminants that these small hard revving and working engines produce even though they are not diesel. Here in FLA it is scorching hot in summer , then i run a 15 -40 Rotella of the same type .


whether you run synthetic or "normal" is up to you , the most important thing is make sure it specifies on the bottle that it is wet clutch compatible ,many full synth oils are NOT and will ruin your clutch plates bc they are too "slippery" . I have never used any oil additives so i cant offer any advice or opinion on them ,personally i think they are "snake oil" that either dont do anything or people are hoping to mask a mechanical condition that needs addressing by adding them to " get by".



As far as the chain tensioner goes, maybe you can find a stateside supplier on Ebay or amazon, if not poke around on the internet on some of the bigger MX parts sites ,that style chain tensioner is real common on dirt bikes ,they should have some .I did order mine from China on EBay and yeah it took a while to get here.

You are definitley right that there are many different opinions on oil preferences just like people have varying ideas about how to break in the bikes. I am currently watching videos by a couple different engineers who are motorcycle enthusiasts about engine break in and will try to find their oil opinions next just because...BUt I think you already hit the nail on the head with saying get the wet clutch compatible and get one rated with the proper viscosity weight for the climate you are riding in plustake into consideration the bike is air cooled and small/high revving high load for it's size so
you should definitley run a multi-weight oil with a high upper weight to mitigate the high engine temps we all will most likely face no matter where on Earth we run these bikes.

That only leaves the questions of synthetic vs. Natural oils plus additives-- and I tend to agree with your idea that synthetic may be too slippery...Although one of the advantages Synthetic oil gives over conventional oils is the synthetic is better at trapping dirt/debris within the oil particles so that when you go to change the oil more engine gunk/dirt/debris/metal shavings and anything floating in there more will come out with synthetic than with conventional. I have seen people say that their conventional looks dirtier when they change it but that is likely more due to the fact the conventional also tends to break down faster and change color due to itself wearing than it is due to trapping other engine gunk in it--that is also why Synthetic oil boasts possible longer intervals between changes and I fully 100% see advantages of synthetic over conventional engine oil being huge in modern cars...Motorcycles are a different beast though with the wet clutch especially---SEE my theory is if you run the conventional oil which traps less debris -- then that extra debris left in the engine will maybe get stuck to parts of the engine like the wet clutch AND I could be dead wrong but I feel like to some degree the wet clutch wants a little some kindds of the debris or whatever is floating in the engine ot give it friction AND I THINK THAT BECAUSE the motorcycle oil for wet clutch bikes always says it has some type of friction rating or friction additive for the wet clutch. IT seems to me like the engine is like fighting itself where the piston and bearings want smooth oil debris free and the clutch needs friction or else it could slip and the interlocking parts would maybe wear more if the friction doesn't occur enough to make the parts catch before interlocking. If anyone reading this has never seen how a motorcycle clutch fits together and works with all the different plates and "dogs" and "dog holes" it is fascinating to anyone with a mind for mechanics and motorcycles and there are plenty of Youtube videos on the subject.

Well I went back to good ole Walmart and this time they only had V-twin 20W50 Mobil 4stroke high performance Full Synthetic motorcycle oil or Walmart's 10w-40 Supertech Full synthetic brand that is the same weight as the Mobil oil I already used and has a similar API rating although the Supertech Walmart brand's rating is one step older than the Mobil oil's most up to date certification--WHatever the heck that means I would need to spend a half hour looking it up and reading to fully understand and probably would forget eventually. --In simple terms the API certifications keep getting updated as new oils come out and supposedly each newer one is slightly better, at least supposed to be better for the newest machines that are being made.

I did find a local similar chain tensioner and I really thank you for your suggestion RedCrowRides as I didnt think of there being a clamp on option that works. Link: https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Alumin...s%2C145&sr=8-8

[Whisky]

I wasn't picky on what oil on used just one that said wet clutch compatible and as far as break in. I just varied my speed really didn't think much about it.

[sirmaxwell]

Originally Posted by Whisky

I wasn't picky on what oil on used just one that said wet clutch compatible and as far as break in. I just varied my speed really didn't think much about it.

Yeah I agree with varying speed....Unfortunately I read that you should avoid holding the same rpm during break in the first 300-600 or 1000 miles after I had already idled it an hr a couple times but its probably ok. My reading suggests from all the big japanese bike makers to go easy maybe 50-60% of peak rpm during break in and dont hold same speed too long. Also go thru gears but try to avoid things like stop and go traffic for long periods of excessive amounts of shifting. Lastly I read to also at least the first few hours warm the bike up then turn it off and let it cool down before restarting and repeat to get some heat cycles thru the new engine. Probably a lot of this stuff doesnt make a huge difference as long as you dont redline and push your bike too hard during break in it should be fine. Some people swear by pushing the bike during break in but zero manufacturers reccomend that and they are trying to avoid having warranty claims so....

[Whisky]

If I was staying with the 125cc I wouldn't worry to much as you can just buy another 125cc for around 200. Or less

[RedCrowRides]

@sirmaxwell - Yea that clamp on chain tensioner from Amazon you linked looks exactly like mine ,it will be fine.,and it's super easy to install.

Back on the oil thing, i run a magnetic oil drain plug ( super cheap too, like 5$ on EBay in your choice of anodized color finishes ) to help keep particulates out of the oil, and i also am running an oil cooler set up to keep it cooler plus adding "some" additional volume of oil .I also tend to change my oil completely every 300 miles max , these Bikes only hold 1 quart so it's so cheap to do it i see no reason not to , if it was a 5 to 6 quart plus filter car job then maybe not so much lol !



I also have a trick oil dipstick that has a temp gauge on the top i got from Japan so thats nice too , so i can keep an eye on that when i am really thrashing .

[sirmaxwell]

Originally Posted by RedCrowRides

@sirmaxwell - Yea that clamp on chain tensioner from Amazon you linked looks exactly like mine ,it will be fine.,and it's super easy to install.

Back on the oil thing, i run a magnetic oil drain plug ( super cheap too, like 5$ on EBay in your choice of anodized color finishes ) to help keep particulates out of the oil, and i also am running an oil cooler set up to keep it cooler plus adding "some" additional volume of oil .I also tend to change my oil completely every 300 miles max , these Bikes only hold 1 quart so it's so cheap to do it i see no reason not to , if it was a 5 to 6 quart plus filter car job then maybe not so much lol !



I also have a trick oil dipstick that has a temp gauge on the top i got from Japan so thats nice too , so i can keep an eye on that when i am really thrashing .

Yeah I like the oil cooler idea especially if riding in the summer sun. My engine seemed pretty hot after just idling in 75 degrees yesterday so a well placed oil cooler that can get some fast moving air thru it should help. I would love an oil cooler but they all look pretty expensive to me like $80-100 or more if i remember correctly. I want sooo many mods that i am actually going ot have to maybe make a list and prioritize on what I really need/want because I don't want to spend a ton on this bike--at least not right away. maybe over a few years I will add everything I want like oil cooler, mirrors, storage box/bags, frame sliders, see thru engine parts and on and on to infinity and beyond!! I will end up with a 100% aftermarket bike with zero original Boom parts eventually lol

The exhaust was hot in places but actually cool enough to leave my hand on the expanded muffler part near the end--the part under the heat shield most of that is one of the coolest parts of the exhaust lol

I was warming up the bike and letting it cool down then repeating as part of the break in period again today and now I am making sure to only let it idle until it gets pretty hot--too hot to leave a hand on the crank case near the side of the dipstick. It was very noticeable that when the bike was still warming up and I revved it that it would shake a good amount BUT after it warms up about all the way and especially after warming up and riding a couple miles Then the vibrations are all but gone compared to when cold. I was happy with how the bike smooths out when warmer and I feel like I am starting to see the bike shifting smoother after running for 4-5 hours and just under 20 miles---Although that may just be my wishful diluded thinking making me hallucinate!!

[sirmaxwell]

Originally Posted by RedCrowRides

@sirmaxwell -
I also have a trick oil dipstick that has a temp gauge on the top i got from Japan so thats nice too , so i can keep an eye on that when i am really thrashing .

Nice!! Especially a great mod for down south where you are often probably riding in full sun and temps in and above the 90 degree range. One thing that is so clear from my memory of the last time I stayed in Winter Park (Next to Orlando) with my bro was how crazy hot the sidewalks and pavement got!! SOO hot I couldn't/wouldn't walk 100 feet from his apartment to the community pool house because the first time I tried it burned do goo it turned me back in a hurry to grab some sandals! Im sure the bike feels hot in Florida too lol!!

Unrelated subject--- I had heard that Vader translates to Father--and I had assumed Vader means Father in Japanese or MAYBE Chinese but as far as I can tell it's neaither. Vader does translate to Father in Dutch but the a in Vader is not a long a--it's more like the a in Dutch Vader is pronounced like when the Doctor says stick out your tongue and say ahhh so it's pronounced more the father with a V at the begining than it is like Vader in Darth Vader. Anyone please correct me or add to it if Im wrong or missing anything!! I find it semi-interesting to know the etymology/origins of our bikes' name

[RKG83]

Where do I tighten up my ignition, where the key goes?

[sirmaxwell]

Originally Posted by RKG83

Where do I tighten up my ignition, where the key goes?

UMMMM...Depends on what part of your ignition you are talking about. A vehicle ignition system includes everything that ignites the fuel.

Are you talking just about the 3 way key part that sends an electrical signal that either you have locked the steering/bike off Or Bike off Or turned the bike on?--I guess that would maybe be called the Ignition (Key) Switch part of your ignition system.

Or are you talking about another part that sends electricity from the magneto to the CDI? Or from the CDI to the Spark plug??

And your question makes me wonder: Why are you asking about where to tighten it? Are you having a no spark problem? Is your bike not turning on when you turn the key? Or something else?

It would help people trying to answer your question if you told them A) which part of the ignition system you speak of AND B) WHy are you asking about that part?
Then maybe I/They can help you better friend!

If you are talking about just the cylinder in which you put the key into is loose then you need to probably take some plastic fairings off off and tighten it underneath the plastic. On other bikes I have had the key ignition cylinder either bolts onto a metal tab attached to the downtube or the key igntion cylinder has tabs on the sides that fit into the fairings or metal which easily breaks or some bikes it both bolts on and has tabs to keep it from freely spinning when you turn the key

[RKG83]

Originally Posted by sirmaxwell

UMMMM...Depends on what part of your ignition you are talking about. A vehicle ignition system includes everything that ignites the fuel.

Are you talking just about the 3 way key part that sends an electrical signal that either you have locked the steering/bike off Or Bike off Or turned the bike on?--I guess that would maybe be called the Ignition (Key) Switch part of your ignition system.

Or are you talking about another part that sends electricity from the magneto to the CDI? Or from the CDI to the Spark plug??

And your question makes me wonder: Why are you asking about where to tighten it? Are you having a no spark problem? Is your bike not turning on when you turn the key? Or something else?

It would help people trying to answer your question if you told them A) which part of the ignition system you speak of AND B) WHy are you asking about that part?
Then maybe I/They can help you better friend!

If you are talking about just the cylinder in which you put the key into is loose then you need to probably take some plastic fairings off off and tighten it underneath the plastic. On other bikes I have had the key ignition cylinder either bolts onto a metal tab attached to the downtube or the key igntion cylinder has tabs on the sides that fit into the fairings or metal which easily breaks or some bikes it both bolts on and has tabs to keep it from freely spinning when you turn the key

Where my key goes, bike is running fine and turning on just where the key goes it seems loose and wobbly.