Rhino Clutch and Shifter Mod Suggestions?

uphill · 11-12-2017, 07:29 AM

Everything is going well now on the break in. Thanks again for all the great input! What I would benefit most from right now, are clutch and shift lever mods. I still have some issues with motor coordination from a spinal cord injury that mainly effects my left side. The clutch and shifter on my previous ride (Chang sidecar rig) was easier b/c it was a reverse clutch lever and the shifter was lower.

I've been looking at the shorty, ez pull clutch levers... different brands etc. I think this would be the ticket for the clutch aspect, but I'd like to find one that doesn't cost $90-250+. Suggestions?

On the foot shift, I don't know where to start. This thing is just WAY to high imo in general in relationship to where your foot sits. I'm used to foot pegs and the shifter much lower. Anybody know a way get it so my foot is sitting above it. Maybe for the heel part, I'd have to do some surgery on the foot rest. Maybe even a lever that compacts both up and down close together, so I could do both
with down kick with my toe.

Just to clarify, I can do it all now, but I can't do real fast movements, and bending my toe upwards is one of the weakest areas. I'd like to just get it dialed in as efficient as possible.

Mudflap · 11-12-2017, 09:27 AM

Here's what I did to my foot rests and shifter. The shifter is a stock CG200 unit that came with a replacement Lifan 200 motorcycle engine. Foot rest is made mostly from the stock one with some cutting and welding. I have long legs and this mod made a huge difference.

uphill · 11-12-2017, 09:45 AM

Oh yeah, nice difference there on that position. Looks like you got it toe only, huh? Maybe that's what I need to try. Since my injury, I've always thought I need the heel kick, because my flexer (raising toe / foot upward) action is the weakest point, but I think if I could get it low enough, it might work. The toe compartment of the footrest is so deep, with all this apparently worthless space, it makes it look like it's designed for the option to modify. Practically close to a sport bike where your toe is angled downward when underneath the shifter. I know there is quite the space to go that extreme, but if I could get it down considerably lower, that might be the ticket. What do you think? Is there a standard toe shifter I could get that I could angle down?

david3921 · 11-12-2017, 10:42 AM

You should be able use the one you have after modification. Try taking off the shifter and rotate it CCW until it feels comfortable to you. The rear, of course, will be higher. At this point you can make your decision, cut it off and remove or cut it off and re-weld at a lower position. Many of us here have welders (if you decide to go that route and don't have access to one) and are happy to help out.

Adjuster · 11-12-2017, 11:15 AM

Would something like a heel-toe shifter work for you? Shift down with your toe and shift up with your heel in a rocking motion.

/

uphill · 11-12-2017, 08:59 PM

Thanks David for the suggestion of the ccw adjustment. I was wondering that, and at least I can most likely get a feel for the front only action, then decide how to handle the rear bar. AND big thanks for the offer to help! I wish I was close enough to you. I'm in TN. I bet I could get the best cold weather running tips from you though ha!

Adjuster: Yep, the stock one is toe / heel as was my CJ750 sidecar rig, but it's mainly the height of it that's making it very cumbersome for me. My 750 was down lower, so it wasn't a problem. Thanks for chiming in.

pete · 11-13-2017, 01:52 AM

clutch easy pull....
they work by changeing the leverage ratio more into the riders favor...

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/CNC-...c-ad2293bd8e57

..

uphill · 11-14-2017, 05:56 AM

Thanks! That link showed a better picture than I've seen of these so far. I've seen the Moose brand of these, but your suggestion led me to the Moose lever / perch assembly, which is a fraction of the most popular RSC. Reviews say the lever is reducing pull even about 20% more than the cable assembly, which seems to present problems adding an extra 6 in. to the cable. I think I have an idea that will work with the Moose shorty lever. I think I can mod my grip, use that lever, and get similar results for about $38 vs. $260

11-12-2017, 07:29 AM	#1
uphill Join Date: Oct 2017 Posts: 63	Rhino Clutch and Shifter Mod Suggestions? Everything is going well now on the break in. Thanks again for all the great input! What I would benefit most from right now, are clutch and shift lever mods. I still have some issues with motor coordination from a spinal cord injury that mainly effects my left side. The clutch and shifter on my previous ride (Chang sidecar rig) was easier b/c it was a reverse clutch lever and the shifter was lower. I've been looking at the shorty, ez pull clutch levers... different brands etc. I think this would be the ticket for the clutch aspect, but I'd like to find one that doesn't cost $90-250+. Suggestions? On the foot shift, I don't know where to start. This thing is just WAY to high imo in general in relationship to where your foot sits. I'm used to foot pegs and the shifter much lower. Anybody know a way get it so my foot is sitting above it. Maybe for the heel part, I'd have to do some surgery on the foot rest. Maybe even a lever that compacts both up and down close together, so I could do both with down kick with my toe. Just to clarify, I can do it all now, but I can't do real fast movements, and bending my toe upwards is one of the weakest areas. I'd like to just get it dialed in as efficient as possible.
	0

11-12-2017, 10:42 AM	#4
david3921 Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Michigan Posts: 1,028	You should be able use the one you have after modification. Try taking off the shifter and rotate it CCW until it feels comfortable to you. The rear, of course, will be higher. At this point you can make your decision, cut it off and remove or cut it off and re-weld at a lower position. Many of us here have welders (if you decide to go that route and don't have access to one) and are happy to help out. __________________ 2012 Kawasaki Versys 1984 Honda Magna V65 2016 Rhino 250 2016 Tao Tao 125D
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11-13-2017, 01:52 AM	#7
pete Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: ChCh , NZ Posts: 2,261	clutch easy pull.... they work by changeing the leverage ratio more into the riders favor... https://www.aliexpress.com/item/CNC-...c-ad2293bd8e57 .. __________________ 09 XT660R ... 06 TTR250 ... 80 Montesa H6 125 Enduro... 77 Montesa Cota 348 MRR "Malcom Rathnell Replica"... Current resto projects.. 81 Honda CT110... 80 Kawasaki KL250A1... 11 Husaburg TE125 enduro... "sold" along with another 31... Lifan 125 Pitbike.. "stolen" ... KIWI BIKER FORUM...... http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/content.php All the best offroad rides in NZ... http://www.remotemoto.com/ E-mail... xtpete1@gmail.com
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11-12-2017, 09:27 AM	#2
Mudflap Join Date: Sep 2014 Posts: 1,870	Here's what I did to my foot rests and shifter. The shifter is a stock CG200 unit that came with a replacement Lifan 200 motorcycle engine. Foot rest is made mostly from the stock one with some cutting and welding. I have long legs and this mod made a huge difference.
	0

11-12-2017, 09:45 AM	#3
uphill Join Date: Oct 2017 Posts: 63	Oh yeah, nice difference there on that position. Looks like you got it toe only, huh? Maybe that's what I need to try. Since my injury, I've always thought I need the heel kick, because my flexer (raising toe / foot upward) action is the weakest point, but I think if I could get it low enough, it might work. The toe compartment of the footrest is so deep, with all this apparently worthless space, it makes it look like it's designed for the option to modify. Practically close to a sport bike where your toe is angled downward when underneath the shifter. I know there is quite the space to go that extreme, but if I could get it down considerably lower, that might be the ticket. What do you think? Is there a standard toe shifter I could get that I could angle down?
	0

11-12-2017, 11:15 AM	#5
Adjuster Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Deerfield Beach FL Posts: 1,410	Would something like a heel-toe shifter work for you? Shift down with your toe and shift up with your heel in a rocking motion. /
	0

11-12-2017, 08:59 PM	#6
uphill Join Date: Oct 2017 Posts: 63	Thanks David for the suggestion of the ccw adjustment. I was wondering that, and at least I can most likely get a feel for the front only action, then decide how to handle the rear bar. AND big thanks for the offer to help! I wish I was close enough to you. I'm in TN. I bet I could get the best cold weather running tips from you though ha! Adjuster: Yep, the stock one is toe / heel as was my CJ750 sidecar rig, but it's mainly the height of it that's making it very cumbersome for me. My 750 was down lower, so it wasn't a problem. Thanks for chiming in.
	0

11-14-2017, 05:56 AM	#8
uphill Join Date: Oct 2017 Posts: 63	Thanks! That link showed a better picture than I've seen of these so far. I've seen the Moose brand of these, but your suggestion led me to the Moose lever / perch assembly, which is a fraction of the most popular RSC. Reviews say the lever is reducing pull even about 20% more than the cable assembly, which seems to present problems adding an extra 6 in. to the cable. I think I have an idea that will work with the Moose shorty lever. I think I can mod my grip, use that lever, and get similar results for about $38 vs. $260
	0