2007 Speedee 150 - Rebuild and Rehab

[tankme]

Ok so am I having to look for the shocks that have the gas canister thing on them or just straight regular old shocks will be just fine as long as they fit in the brackets?

And does it matter that the 13" atv shocks I'm seeing are described as a 125cc shock. Is there some indicator of weight etc. Am I asking that right? The right size shock for the right use other than length?

I'm slowly getting hip and confident with parts purchases thanks to y'all.

Today maybe I'll get time to go exchange the wiring harness I received and attempt a start. Woot it's getting exciting now!

Thanks!
Jim

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by tankme

Do you have the A-frame, or the H-frame? They have a 12 for $129 at the moment.

I have a 12 ton H, but I'd prefer a 20.

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by tankme

Ok so am I having to look for the shocks that have the gas canister thing on them or just straight regular old shocks will be just fine as long as they fit in the brackets?

And does it matter that the 13" atv shocks I'm seeing are described as a 125cc shock. Is there some indicator of weight etc. Am I asking that right? The right size shock for the right use other than length?

I sure wouldn't be focused on reservoir shocks, unless the price was right. I've seen some that are fake.

If the spring on a so-called 125 shock appeared to be substantial, I'd try it.

[tankme]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

I sure wouldn't be focused on reservoir shocks, unless the price was right. I've seen some that are fake.

If the spring on a so-called 125 shock appeared to be substantial, I'd try it.

Ok, gas filled not required and I noticed they are very much more expensive. Good.

I will be calling EagleATV on Tuesday and will talk to someone and probably knock it out then. I'll also be looking for a seat. After that I'll go down my list of active carts and see what's left. I think I am almost done needing any other parts, hah we'll see. (I have not even touched the carb yet.)

I've decided to weld my own racks as well so I can control size and shape and function. That'll be awhile until you see pics of that!

And coming up are questions about lights-ie how do I figure out how many watts of lights I can put on the ATV as I have some off road lights I want to re-use. Electricity is still foggy, I can wire, test , follow someone else's design etc but the math is still difficult for me when designing. Post coming soon!

Thanks!
Jim

[01SSRedA4]

I think pretty much all the Gy6 stuff is interchangeable though I remember there being a short and long chassis version of that engine. Grab a spare CVT belt while youre at it.

[Weldangrind]

If you start with Taobao racks, you'll have a basic shape that you can modify to suit. Just sayin'.

Our GY6 came with one 36 watt headlight, which is too much IMHO. If you have a single off-road light that is 18 watts, you'd be better off. I recommend a relay, rather than passing the current through a switch. Fuse both sides.

That said, if you already have one of these, you could fabricate a plate that attaches to the handlebar mount. That would allow the light to turn with the bars, Tucker style. The light is easily aimed and locked into position.

[Weldangrind]

Sorry, I made a mistake. Our GY6 came with two 18 watt bulbs. I'm eventually going to find some cheap LED lights for it, so that draw is minimal.

[katoranger]

GY6 engines come in short and long case and then some have different heads on them.

[tankme]

Yes! LED is the second choice if I can't use these off road ones I have. I have been looking at the 36w 16" ones or maybe the 27w round ones with a relay and switch. If the lights will be on we'll probably need a bunch of light otherwise they won't be on much and close splash light is more needed than long distance beams. I was wondering what the maximum wattage is that this atv electrical system can manage, unless the relay takes care of all of that.

I have been looking at the premade racks and they are just a tad small. I have a bunch of square tube laying about and also enjoy being hands on and in control. Ahem.

And, I have a coupon code for the 20Ton at HF if you would like it, it brings the price down to $154. item#60603 coupon#22269175.

Talk to you soon!
Jim

[tankme]

Originally Posted by katoranger

GY6 engines come in short and long case and then some have different heads on them.

I haven't measured the cvt case yet, I know of the 16" measurement from a diagram off of ebay which I think was quoted as 'short', is that the long or short and what's the other length?

I am needing a gasket for that cover already, I see gaps in it around the edge. And it has some corrosion I want to polish off, and since I haven't found an easy way to get more low end torque through sprocket changes I have just started researching weights and clutch stuff so I would have had that cover off at some point anyway.

Speaking of that cover sometimes I run across a thing, like this, that goes over that front hole on the CVT case but it is rare when I can spot them by searching. I think I have only seen them on Taobao, but nowhere else.

Still going!
Jim

[tankme]

Originally Posted by 01SSRedA4

I think pretty much all the Gy6 stuff is interchangeable though I remember there being a short and long chassis version of that engine. Grab a spare CVT belt while youre at it.

Ah, CVT belt, I'll stash it on the extras needed list.

I started off believing that everything is interchangeable but really isn't, but I learned I only have to know a few things and I can get the right thing. And I've gotten into the habit of taking measurements too, and of course taking many many pictures for comparison.

Thanks!
Jim

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by tankme

Yes! LED is the second choice if I can't use these off road ones I have. I have been looking at the 36w 16" ones or maybe the 27w round ones with a relay and switch. If the lights will be on we'll probably need a bunch of light otherwise they won't be on much and close splash light is more needed than long distance beams. I was wondering what the maximum wattage is that this atv electrical system can manage, unless the relay takes care of all of that.

I have been looking at the premade racks and they are just a tad small. I have a bunch of square tube laying about and also enjoy being hands on and in control. Ahem.

And, I have a coupon code for the 20Ton at HF if you would like it, it brings the price down to $154. item#60603 coupon#22269175.

Talk to you soon!
Jim

Amen on control over the process.

To be clear, the electrical system is capable of what it is capable of. A relay does not change that. A relay allows you to control a big circuit with a small switch. I would limit total light draw to 36 watts, and not for long, as it will pull the battery down quickly.

[tankme]

Ok good thanks! While the engine is running what is an ok wattage to expect? (why is the number 75W stuck in my head while running?) I'll keep looking while I'm drawing out the rack designs too for a shape I also like.

Jim

[Weldangrind]

I'm not exactly sure what you're asking, since wattage is a combined measure of volts and amps in a running circuit. IOW, you can't measure wattage output without a specific load. Smarter people than me, please chime in here.

Another way to look at it is the maximum capable wattage of the lighting circuit. My guess would be 35 watts for the headlight, plus an 1157 bulb in the tail light.

As touched on before, try to stay far away from that number, since the stator and flywheel will struggle to light the headlight and charge the battery for long. LED's would help a lot.

[katoranger]

I think that 50 watts would be about all. You may be able to exceed that for short burst.

I will say that the stator in the buggy can recharge the battery after I jump it.