Templar X 250

[superjocko]

I've never had an issue with having a legal spark arrestor on a street legal bike, but your county mounties may differ.

[Weresquatch]

I'm glad you've been fortunate. It's USFS policy so it's true for all public lands managed by the USFS. A lot of areas are sparsely patrolled though.

[vividpixel]

Originally Posted by Vekenti

Actually, the carb mounted push/pull plunger works!

Oh, good! I can see the advantage of making more room on the bars and having no cable to deal with.

I've appreciated the convenience of having it near the clutch lever, and no worry that I forgot to switch it off. If anyone else replaces the stock clutch lever and needs an idea of how to mount the choke lever, I think this may be my least janky configuration yet:

[Weresquatch]

Okay, maybe dumb question but is there a trip meter on the Templar X or am I just supposed to remember what the mileage was when I fueled up. I can live without a gas gauge but....

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by Weresquatch

Okay, maybe dumb question but is there a trip meter on the Templar X or am I just supposed to remember what the mileage was when I fueled up. I can live without a gas gauge but....

Correction: Mine works the same way. Single short press on the button toggles between odometer and tripmeter. When in trip meter mode, hold down button to reset.

I guess I got the exact same one on the early 2022 5 speed X.

[Texas Pete]

I have a trip meter on my Templar X 250 2022 1/2 6-Speed model. Single press button toggles between OD and trip on my bike. I run mine up to 80 miles then consider filling up again next time I have the time to. Hold down button on trip and it resets after fill up so it can keep track all over again.

[Mikd]

For the handlebar mounted choke lever I added two orings on top the plastic spacer on the bolt that it pivots on. This provided a bit of drag that allows the choke to stay where you put while the bike is warming up.

[Diehard]

Originally Posted by vividpixel

Oh, good! I can see the advantage of making more room on the bars and having no cable to deal with.

I've appreciated the convenience of having it near the clutch lever, and no worry that I forgot to switch it off. If anyone else replaces the stock clutch lever and needs an idea of how to mount the choke lever, I think this may be my least janky configuration yet:

Any chance you could share the link for those blue levers for clutch choke and brake? Tia

[vividpixel]

I don't have a matching brake lever, but the clutch is here:
a. co/d/bu3qk3x (PRO CAKEN 7/8‘’ 22mm Universal Motorcycle CNC Short Stunt Clutch Lever Aluminum Alloy)
Feels like a quality lever, stiff pull. There's a non-short version here that I returned, but it felt just as solid: a.co/d/0KrJ3wI

The brake lever is part of this universal set, but these are quite loose and snap off easily.
a. co/d/ihWKHGI (MRELC Universal Motorcycle 7/8" 22mm Handlebar Brake Master Cylinder Clutch Lever CNC Left & Right Set)

[Okierider]

So any word on replacement wheel bearings for the Templars?
Took my rear off to (finally) install my 40 tooth sprocket and both rear bearings are shot. Fronts are sounding suspect too…

Edit-so mine were seized solid on each side of the rear wheel.
Pounded one side out and to my surprise 2 bearings came out, and 2 from the other side as well.
Minus the one that was destroyed in the process, once removed from the bike all are flawless working bearings. They were just crammed in so tight the pinched each other.
All 4 are “61905RS 010 C&U 01A03” so replacing them should be easy.
Only question is why 2 per side?

[Diehard]

[QUOTE=vividpixel;405740]I don't have a matching brake lever, but the clutch is here:
a. co/d/bu3qk3x (PRO CAKEN 7/8‘’ 22mm Universal Motorcycle CNC Short Stunt Clutch Lever al set ty apreciate the info

[Weresquatch]

NICE. I'm surprised I missed that. I thought that only changed between Kph/mph.

[Weresquatch]

Well, I'm still breaking in my X but gave it 40 miles yesterday with about half of that on beaten-to-heck fireroad with lots of loose gravel. The bike did pretty darn well. I learned that I am in *NO WAY* comfortable shifting in my new ONeil Rider MX boots. I've never owned a set and finding the brake and shifter had a few butt clinchy moments. The brakes are better than they feel like. What I mean is they are soft pull but but they grab in a hurry. The stock tires at whatever the stock psi is felt strong. Rear end got a bit squirrely but absolutely manageable. I'm still at only 110 miles. I won't start hammering on it until I'm at 200 miles and I change the oil again.

[Diehard]

Any leads for a stronger rear brake pedal i folded mine back and under the foot peg yesterday 2023 templar x

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by Okierider

So any word on replacement wheel bearings for the Templars?

...
...
Minus the one that was destroyed in the process, once removed from the bike all are flawless working bearings. They were just crammed in so tight the pinched each other.
All 4 are “61905RS 010 C&U 01A03” so replacing them should be easy.
Only question is why 2 per side?

Bearing part 61905RS has typical nomenclature for a sealed bearing.
THANK YOU for that !!

Replacements I find all seem to be 9mm width, 25mm inner diameter, 42mm outer diameter. Is this what you measure on them?

Regarding the double bearing question... Was there a center sleeve (bushing) between them? Here is a typical layout:



The center sleeve width/fit is CRITICAL for bearing life. If the bearing is torqued with inner race pushed laterally and outer race not moving, this causes bearing failure, quick!! This is the reason I never apply the high torque I hear people talking about for the axel bolt/nut on my China made bikes. And, I've never had my axel nut loosen- Lock ring is there for friction, no need to. If all of the specs are perfect, you may be able to tighten more, but I don't think we get such great fitment!

Here is an Allballs rear wheel bearing kit for my KTM 250SX. It comes with a replacement inner bushing.



Was there a bushing/inner sleeve in the Templar rear wheel?

If not, then when you tighten the axel nut, the inner races are torqued inwards with no support, causing lateral force on the bearing-probable fail!