Coolant leaking out of bleeder hole

kumatae · 10-02-2016, 10:59 PM

I got coolant leaking out of my bleeder hole and want to see if anyone knew how I should go about fixing it. I did remove the right side crank case about a month ago using directions from CSC as I tightened and loctited the crankshaft nut. Currently I've unscrewed the water pump thinking I need to start there. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

kumatae · 10-02-2016, 11:47 PM

I now have the water pump impeller removed and wondering how I can get the water pump shaft out without damaging the seals.

kumatae · 10-03-2016, 04:34 PM

So after messaging with Gerry, the seals in the water pump needs to be replaced. Not sure how many have done this but it seems like an impossible task. The frustration is getting better of me and after I get this fixed, I'm selling it. Yup, don't want to deal with impossible tasks that's involved with maintaining this bike. Don't want to deal with it any more.

DohcBikes · 10-03-2016, 05:11 PM

The "bleeder" is called a weep hole. It's there to let you know the seals are out. Just replace the entire pump.

BlackBike · 10-03-2016, 10:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kumatae

So after messaging with Gerry, the seals in the water pump needs to be replaced. Not sure how many have done this but it seems like an impossible task. The frustration is getting better of me and after I get this fixed, I'm selling it. Yup, don't want to deal with impossible tasks that's involved with maintaining this bike. Don't want to deal with it any more.

Did you ask csc if they can find you a shop to do the replacement? It's understandable if you don't feel confident in replacing it. I sure it's like a car water pump. You have to go thru several assemblies just to get to the pump itself. Sometimes you have to really just be bullheaded and refuse to be defeated till it's done.

Jay In Milpitas · 10-03-2016, 11:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kumatae

So after messaging with Gerry, the seals in the water pump needs to be replaced. Not sure how many have done this but it seems like an impossible task. The frustration is getting better of me and after I get this fixed, I'm selling it. Yup, don't want to deal with impossible tasks that's involved with maintaining this bike. Don't want to deal with it any more.

Here's some info: http://www.chinariders.net/showpost....92&postcount=5

kumatae · 10-04-2016, 02:17 PM

My bike is only covered under parts as I'm the second owner. I've replaced the seal and it's looking good so far. I guess I'm fortunate that I live 30 miles away from CSC and was able to pick up the part this morning.

pyoungbl · 10-04-2016, 02:36 PM

OK, how much of a PITA was this after all? I'm asking because OP made it sound near impossible for mere mortals. Was this just frustration speaking or was it major surgery best left to a professional shop with lots of special tools?

Peter Y.

detours · 10-04-2016, 04:13 PM

I'm not a mechanic, but I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last week ...

Seriously though, I have never worked on the water pump, but difficult seals can usually be removed with a dental pick. Some people screw a small screw into the seal, then use pliers to pull it out. Others carefully drill through the seal and use the hole to fish it out. The risk is damaging the metal behind the seal.

I realize I'm commenting after you already finished the job. Please let us know how you removed the seal and how difficult it was.

rjmorel · 10-04-2016, 07:28 PM

A few weeks back I was riding in Yosemite at the Horizons Unlimited rally and when I got back to camp it looked like oil grunge running down the RH side of the head , cylinder and maybe even out the water pump weep hole. I thought "great the valve covers came loose". After looking at it more closely I saw that the grunge was on the front forks also. I took it to a car wash and soaped it down and rinsed all the crud away and rode it to see where it was leaking from. Turns out I had ridden in a down pour up in Yosemite and the front tire flung road grunge up between the radiators and it landed on top of motor then ran over the side and made it look like a horrendous leak. I think a front fender rear flap would stop this. I'm mentioning this because I had a fright thinking my motor was falling apart and all it was was rain water from the road. YMMV rj

RedHawk47 · 10-04-2016, 11:17 PM

To remove an O-ring from a shaft: grip the o-ring with your thumb on one side of the shaft and a finger on the other side. Squeeze the o-ring between your thumb and finger while you slide them off the shaft to the side, stretching the o-ring. Have something handy, such as a toothpick, to slide under the o-ring as it stands proud of the shaft. Tada!

DohcBikes · 10-04-2016, 11:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RedHawk47

grip the o-ring with your thumb on one side of the shaft and a finger on the other side. Squeeze the o-ring between your thumb and finger while you slide them off the shaft to the side, stretching the o-ring

AAAAnnd I'm spent

kumatae · 10-05-2016, 05:13 PM

So to remove the water pump seal, you need to remove the four bolts of the water pump. The one with copper washer will drain your coolant so make sure you have something to catch the coolant.

I would take the time to remove the gasket and put it in a safe place - it's super easy to bend it. I just went ahead and got a new gasket, it's less than a $1.

Remove the impeller, use a 12MM socket. Note that you will also have to use a 10MM allen wrench on the left side - similar step as if you were turning the bike to look for TDC.

After you have the impeller off, I used a pick. No pretty way to do it, just stick something on there and remove it. Gerry recommended a flathead but don't bother, no way you are getting it out with a flathead. The screw idea is good and it might be worth it.

Note that the diagram for parts on the CSC website is flat out wrong for the water pump seal. So glad that I went in person and ordered it to verify it was the right part. In the diagram it is Z13-117 but that's not the seal. Regardless of what pictures says, you want Z13-120. Hope this helps.

My seal went bad around 13,000 miles.

detours · 10-05-2016, 11:46 PM

Great write-up, kumatae. Thanks!

10-02-2016, 10:59 PM	#1
kumatae Join Date: Oct 2015 Posts: 51	Coolant leaking out of bleeder hole I got coolant leaking out of my bleeder hole and want to see if anyone knew how I should go about fixing it. I did remove the right side crank case about a month ago using directions from CSC as I tightened and loctited the crankshaft nut. Currently I've unscrewed the water pump thinking I need to start there. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
	0

10-04-2016, 04:13 PM	#9
detours Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Arvada, CO Posts: 1,004	I'm not a mechanic, but I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last week ... Seriously though, I have never worked on the water pump, but difficult seals can usually be removed with a dental pick. Some people screw a small screw into the seal, then use pliers to pull it out. Others carefully drill through the seal and use the hole to fish it out. The risk is damaging the metal behind the seal. I realize I'm commenting after you already finished the job. Please let us know how you removed the seal and how difficult it was. __________________ Red 5 standing by! 2015 CSC red RX3 with 19" front wheel, Shinko 804/805, skid plate, tall seat, 13T/45T sprockets, progressive shock, Winyoochanok windshield, GENSSI LED headlight, SW-Motech tankbag, Shorai Lithium battery 2014 Ural Patrol
	0

10-04-2016, 07:28 PM	#10
rjmorel Join Date: May 2007 Location: Warshington Posts: 928	A few weeks back I was riding in Yosemite at the Horizons Unlimited rally and when I got back to camp it looked like oil grunge running down the RH side of the head , cylinder and maybe even out the water pump weep hole. I thought "great the valve covers came loose". After looking at it more closely I saw that the grunge was on the front forks also. I took it to a car wash and soaped it down and rinsed all the crud away and rode it to see where it was leaking from. Turns out I had ridden in a down pour up in Yosemite and the front tire flung road grunge up between the radiators and it landed on top of motor then ran over the side and made it look like a horrendous leak. I think a front fender rear flap would stop this. I'm mentioning this because I had a fright thinking my motor was falling apart and all it was was rain water from the road. YMMV rj __________________ Live Zong, and Prosper
	2

10-04-2016, 11:17 PM	#11
RedHawk47 Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Berthoud, CO Posts: 205	To remove an O-ring from a shaft: grip the o-ring with your thumb on one side of the shaft and a finger on the other side. Squeeze the o-ring between your thumb and finger while you slide them off the shaft to the side, stretching the o-ring. Have something handy, such as a toothpick, to slide under the o-ring as it stands proud of the shaft. Tada! __________________ Dan CSC RX3 Cyclone, CSC TT250, Moto Guzzi V7 II, KLR650
	0

10-05-2016, 11:46 PM	#14
detours Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Arvada, CO Posts: 1,004	Great write-up, kumatae. Thanks! __________________ Red 5 standing by! 2015 CSC red RX3 with 19" front wheel, Shinko 804/805, skid plate, tall seat, 13T/45T sprockets, progressive shock, Winyoochanok windshield, GENSSI LED headlight, SW-Motech tankbag, Shorai Lithium battery 2014 Ural Patrol
	0

10-02-2016, 11:47 PM	#2
kumatae Join Date: Oct 2015 Posts: 51	I now have the water pump impeller removed and wondering how I can get the water pump shaft out without damaging the seals.
	0

10-03-2016, 04:34 PM	#3
kumatae Join Date: Oct 2015 Posts: 51	So after messaging with Gerry, the seals in the water pump needs to be replaced. Not sure how many have done this but it seems like an impossible task. The frustration is getting better of me and after I get this fixed, I'm selling it. Yup, don't want to deal with impossible tasks that's involved with maintaining this bike. Don't want to deal with it any more.
	0

10-03-2016, 05:11 PM	#4
DohcBikes Banned Join Date: Oct 2016 Posts: 59	The "bleeder" is called a weep hole. It's there to let you know the seals are out. Just replace the entire pump.
	0

10-04-2016, 02:17 PM	#7
kumatae Join Date: Oct 2015 Posts: 51	My bike is only covered under parts as I'm the second owner. I've replaced the seal and it's looking good so far. I guess I'm fortunate that I live 30 miles away from CSC and was able to pick up the part this morning.
	1

10-04-2016, 02:36 PM	#8
pyoungbl Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Portsmouth, Virginia, USA Posts: 632	OK, how much of a PITA was this after all? I'm asking because OP made it sound near impossible for mere mortals. Was this just frustration speaking or was it major surgery best left to a professional shop with lots of special tools? Peter Y.
	0

10-05-2016, 05:13 PM	#13
kumatae Join Date: Oct 2015 Posts: 51	So to remove the water pump seal, you need to remove the four bolts of the water pump. The one with copper washer will drain your coolant so make sure you have something to catch the coolant. I would take the time to remove the gasket and put it in a safe place - it's super easy to bend it. I just went ahead and got a new gasket, it's less than a $1. Remove the impeller, use a 12MM socket. Note that you will also have to use a 10MM allen wrench on the left side - similar step as if you were turning the bike to look for TDC. After you have the impeller off, I used a pick. No pretty way to do it, just stick something on there and remove it. Gerry recommended a flathead but don't bother, no way you are getting it out with a flathead. The screw idea is good and it might be worth it. Note that the diagram for parts on the CSC website is flat out wrong for the water pump seal. So glad that I went in person and ordered it to verify it was the right part. In the diagram it is Z13-117 but that's not the seal. Regardless of what pictures says, you want Z13-120. Hope this helps. My seal went bad around 13,000 miles.
	5