At wits end

[rjmorel]

Do the cam port plugs unscrew? I don't have my bike in front of me and was wondering. Also can you explain how to use the marks in the inspection windows to get the cam where it needs to be for adjusting the valves? Everyone says it's easier but didn't explain to us simple folk how to exactly use them. Last time I did mine ,I used the alternator timing hole. thanks, rj

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by rjmorel

Do the cam port plugs unscrew? I don't have my bike in front of me and was wondering. Also can you explain how to use the marks in the inspection windows to get the cam where it needs to be for adjusting the valves? Everyone says it's easier but didn't explain to us simple folk how to exactly use them. Last time I did mine ,I used the alternator timing hole. thanks, rj

Yes, the cam inspection plugs are threaded. You remove them with an Allen head wrench.

After removing the plugs, rotate the crankshaft counter-clockwise, in the normal manner. Watch the cam inspection port on the right. When you see the 'L' mark go past this cam inspection port, be prepared to stop the crankshaft when both 'L' and 'R' marks get aligned in both inspection ports, as shown below.



Alternatively, you can turn the crankshaft until the 'T' mark appears in the flywheel inspection port. Then check the cam inspection ports. If the piston is at TDC on the compression stroke, you will see the 'L' and 'R' marks aligned in the cam inspection ports. If not, you are at TDC on the exhaust stroke. Rotate the crankshaft another 360 degrees, and the 'L' and 'R' marks should appear in the cam inspection ports.

[Jay In Milpitas]

And for just a bit more clarity, the alternator timing "T" mark will show every revolution, both compression and exhaust/intake overlap.

The cam marks will only show in their respective windows on the correct cycle for checking valve clearance. This is because the cam runs at half the crankshaft speed.

As a side note, if the alternator "T" mark is aligned with it's pointer and the cam marks are NOT centered it is possible the timing chain jumped a bit. This would be reflected by poor performance.

[SpudRider]

Here's another tip.

When the bike is new, the marks on the cam sprocket ('L' and 'R'), should align very well with the marks on the cam inspection ports when the TDC mark on the flywheel aligns with the inspection hole of the stator cover.

As you ride more miles the cam timing chain will gradually elongate. When the marks on the cam sprocket no longer align very well with the marks on the cam inspection ports, it is time to replace the cam chain.

[rjmorel]

So basically in layman's terms turn the motor over counter clockwise till I see the timing mark in the alternator window. And if I see BOTH timing marks in the cam inspection port windows I can set Both sets of valves then and there? thanks, rj

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by rjmorel

So basically in layman's terms turn the motor over counter clockwise till I see the timing mark in the alternator window. And if I see BOTH timing marks in the cam inspection port windows I can set Both sets of valves then and there? thanks, rj

That is exactly correct.

If both timing marks are aligned in the cam inspection ports, you are definitely located at TDC on the compression stroke. You don't even need to wiggle the rocker arms.

[SpudRider]

In fact, let's examine the worst case scenario: all four valves are so tight, you don't have any valve clearance for any valve at either TDC position. You don't need to experiment to find TDC on the compression stroke. If both timing marks are aligned in the cam inspection ports, you are definitely located at TDC on the compression stroke.

[Lee R]

Good advice Spud, checking the timing marks is probably the safest way for someone new to valve checks to be sure they are at TDC on the compression stroke.

[rjmorel]

Glad to know this Spud. First time I did my valves it wasn't on the right stroke and had to redo everything . rj