TBR7 wont start

[Loraphet]

Well another probably newb question. My fuel gauge isn't working on my 23 tbr7. The place I bought from suggested getting a hook reach into tank and move float up an down to see if it unsticks. Something about sometimes when new they take awhile to work and that could help tried it now cant start bike. battery died trying charged battery to 13 v died trying again.
Cab wiggling that float damage anything? I felt it was just for gas lvl. Could I have flooded it?? sucks being my first bike and worried i killed it.

[Thumper]

Riding the bike should provide enough jostling to free up a "stuck" float inside the tank. But I have never heard that they get stuck in the first place. The bouyancy of that air inside the float is substantial.

None of that at the fuel tank can cause flooding at the carb. These bikes come jet lean and using the choke should not cause flooding. Do NOT twist the throttle much when you try to start it... just pull the choke. Maybe 1/8th throttle, no more.

The petcock lever needs to be on (vertical) not off (horizontal). Not sure why it isn't starting though. Have you heard any firing at all?

[Loraphet]

I had it running before messing with float. sat maybe half n hour. I had left it on full choke and was using thr throttle to try to start it. just keeps cranking but not turning over. battery was already weak and it died. tried again 20 mins later{charged battery and put a jump starter on it} same thing. kick start sucks.... now it is sitting in garage on a battery minder. I did smell gas. Could I have flooded it bad enough for it to not start for awhile?

[Thumper]

Extensive choke and throttle blips can flood it. Take out the spark plug, dry it off. Turn it over with the starter WITHOUT twisting the throttle with no spark plug, and choke OFF. You need to dry out the cylinder if it was flooded.

Then when you put the plug back in (gentle-don't overtighten), try and start with NO choke, and only twist throttle 1/8th. It should sputter and possibly run. Then, only choke briefly and very little throttle. It should spring to life. Get it off choke ASAP.

If it really wants choke to stay running for more than a minute, you need to rejet. If it was Winter, there might be a reason for more choke, but not this time of year.

[Loraphet]

I won't be able to try anything else until after work tomorrow or saturday morning... dang work... If its just flooded can it dry out from sitting??
I am learning and probably not using the choke properly. They sending me a new gas sending unit, if it doesn't start working after i get bike started again I will be able to learn how to replace it... I am thinking I flooded it alot in my state of newb panic... lol

I am glad i found this forum. I really like the bike and just want to ride...

[Thumper]

I wouldn't worry about the fuel gauge until you get it running and get used to it. Things like valve clearance and carb jetting are more important.

[Bill Hilly]

You can often get a flooded engine started by holding the throttle wide open while cranking it. You definitely want to make sure the choke is open though. I have also accidentally hit the kill button on these bikes. It's not spring loaded, and only pops back out when you push it to run. Run is the thin button, and kill the wider one.

[Thumper]

Note... FYI, "open" choke means NOT choked. Bill Hilly is describing the high air method of blowing out extra fuel! Choke will just add more!

If it is/was flooded, and you dry the spark plug, I would try to start it without choke and only slightly opened throttle at first. You can always pull the choke if it isn't getting enough gas.

When it starts, keep the rpms at least 2000 while you nurse it to life. If there is a build up of crap from the rich running/flooded state, this will blow it out. Try to hold it at a steady rpm, and get it off choke to avoid flooding.

Starting characteristics will tell you how lean it is jet, or if it is OK. Cold start should need a choke briefly when the weather is cool. Summer temps you may not need to choke to start. Keep in mind that repetitively twisting the throttle way hard when trying to start it can quickly cause it to flood, especially if the choke is still pulled.

The idea is to keep it running as lean as possible and get to a stable idle. Do you know where the slide height adjustment is on the carb? It is a brass knurled knob with a flathead slot on the starboard side (kick start side). If you tighten that screw (clockwise), it will hold the slide higher in the tower and it will idle higher. As the engine warms up, you may need to turn it clockwise to get the idle back down to 1200-1400 rpm. You can replace the tiny idle adjust screw with a large knob so you can do this without a screwdriver. It can be tough to get your fingers in there around the frame stay.

[Loraphet]

Thanks for the advice. Got home from work had battery fully charged. DID NOT use choke made sure kill switch was on. started right up. rode around the block. Stopped lost power. seem si have a loose wire. i can poke behind headlight and push on connectors power comes back. guess i have a project still lol

Thanks again

[N7sithis]

Fuel gauge issue -
https://chinariders.net/showthread.p...114#post303114
Pretty sure this is what's wrong with mine, I've just been ignoring it lol. pretty easy to tell how much is in the tank without it.

As for starting and running issues - as someone who's first bike is the hawk 250, which had similar issues, DON'T worry about it! I honestly would not even try to run it like it is right now. Find your short/connection issue - fix that.

Get a quality battery - the one my bike came with was TERRIBLE! It would rarely even have enough juice to start the bike, even after charging, seems like one of the cells was dead on arrival, so bad.
My battery choice - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Been running this one for about 4 months now with no issues at all. It's a bit smaller than stock, I threw a roll of electrical tape in there next to it and it fits perfect now, no rattling/movement lol

I would go ahead and upgrade that carb if I was you, I went straight for the PE28 because performance. If you're tight for cash I think there are cheap replacements that are much easier to tune than the stock one.
My carb - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Matching air filter - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Check the valve clearance! Very important for starting and idling. Just need a 10mm wrench, some feeler gauges and some time to learn. I personally set my on the loose side for the break-in period, then tightened them up around 6/700 miles in when I could tell my bike was opening up.

After those 3 mods/upgrades my hawk starts up first try every time, usually without the choke.

[CheapThrills]

- My fuel gauge isn't working on my 23 tbr7.



Check your quick connect under the tank didn't become a quick disconnect.



- Something about sometimes when new they take awhile to work and that could help tried it now cant start bike.



Not sure what you mean, so guessing, I found my bike ran very LEAN and when it was hot, it ran poorly and sometimes difficult to start. So I fiddled around with choke sometimes, but went way with carb upgrade.



- battery died trying charged battery to 13 v died trying again.


Can't help you here, battery tender keeping stock battery going for third year.



- Cab wiggling that float damage anything?


Just wiggling the bike makes the float move up and down, so it moves with the level fairly well.


Good luck!!!!

[buzz]

Mine only works when full,50 miles on empty. I just use trip mileage.Don't need the gauge, Have tried to adjust but no good.

[Loraphet]

I got it running. actually started right up without using choke at all. after riding I lost all power. touched the wires under the speedometer and it all came back. Wonder if gas gauge could be a wire under there not connected? I just can't find any diagrams i can understand.
going to pull front plastic off and see if i can secure them and make sure they are all connected.

[Zynice]

Hey sorry to bother you. Was wondering if you found out what the cause of the dash shutting off was from. I know you mentioned moving around some wires underneath the dash to get it to work. Having a similar problem myself, after taking off the headlight to adjust it, nothing gets power at all.

[bigdano711]

Take that headlight back off and inspect every wire and disconnect/reconnect every connector you see. Do it a couple times and add some dielectric grease to each pin with a toothpick and make sure they snap back together completely.


I will be converting my connectors to these soon:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...DOR4AD1H&psc=1