Planning for the TAT

[SpeedSouth]

As the title implies, I have decided to prep the Lifan to make the ride on the TAT that I'm planning for the end of May.

Where: TAT trail from Manchester Tn (skipping the very first sections of the TAT due to location and lack of dirt) to the Ok/Ar state line.

When: May 24th - 31st

Who: Myself and at least 4 other riders from a local Ga sportbike forum. Maybe as many as 10 riders, including at least one female.


Trying to decide which bike to ride has been difficult. I love the Lifan on dirt, but not so much on the street. I love my EX on the street, and it will handle a dirt road, but 3 or 4 days of dirt plus water-crossings and at least one rocky trail leads to me not wanting to be on the EX.

In the end, I figure it's time to see exactly what the Lifan will handle and get my money's worth. I will be unhappy on the street sections, but should be much happier in the dirt.


And so the planning begins...

Top of the list for me...rework the seat. There is no way that I can handle 7 days in the saddle of this horse, so I'll check around and see about getting it redone. I know the gel seat cover option is out there, but I'm not too fond of that route. I'd rather pay to have the seat done, or bite the bullet and do it myself.

Tires. I'll need to get some good tires and tubes (and spare tubes). I'm open to advice on this, as I have no experience buying dirt tires. What sizes fit the Lifan? Are the tubes sized like tires, or just for the rim size?

Power: I'm a little concerned about wiring in a 12v outlet like I have on my EX for my GPS unit. Will the Lifan produce enough power to run the GPS for several hours every day? I will be depending on the GPS if I need to set out on my own for one reason or another.

Chain: Someone mentioned I might want to replace the factory chain w/ an O ring. Do any of you with a lot of dirt experience belive this is needed, or might the factory chain be okay? I know most people prefer to move to the 520 size, but I have a new smaller sprocket for the rear that is still a 428, so I'd rather not move up to the 520 yet so I can use the sprocket I already have.

Lights: I know a lot of people have complained about the headlight not being very bright. i have not ridden the Lifan in the dark, so I really have no idea how dim it might be. This trip may require me to ride at night, and potentailly alone (if I need to set off on my own for some reason) so I want to be sure I can see. What do you recommend?


What am I forgetting? Any other advice you have for me? Anyone else in the area care to tag along? I'm not the leader or the planner, so I guess it might be rude of me to invite others, but it's all public roads and as far as I can tell, everyone is invited.


Thanks in adavnce.

[BillR]

Snipped some out:

Originally Posted by SpeedSouth

As the title implies, I have decided to prep the Lifan to make the ride on the TAT that I'm planning for the end of May.

Top of the list for me...rework the seat. There is no way that I can handle 7 days in the saddle of this horse, so I'll check around and see about getting it redone. I know the gel seat cover option is out there, but I'm not too fond of that route. I'd rather pay to have the seat done, or bite the bullet and do it myself.

Let us know what you do here. I would like to get a better seat, also.

Power: I'm a little concerned about wiring in a 12v outlet like I have on my EX for my GPS unit. Will the Lifan produce enough power to run the GPS for several hours every day? I will be depending on the GPS if I need to set out on my own for one reason or another.

I haven't figured out how much electricity the 200cc engines are making, but I think it probably will.
Do you know what the GPS draws?
Maybe hook it up, go for a ride and see how much battery you have left.

Lights: I know a lot of people have complained about the headlight not being very bright. i have not ridden the Lifan in the dark, so I really have no idea how dim it might be. This trip may require me to ride at night, and potentailly alone (if I need to set off on my own for some reason) so I want to be sure I can see. What do you recommend?

Check your headlight to see if it dims after the bike runs for a bit (mine did). If so, you may want to look into rewiring it to feed off the battery.
I changed over to a direct feed from the battery, no problem since.

The biggest help was when I switched over to a H-4 halogen 45/45 watt bulb. I like the better light it puts out and the battery charges up fine (so far).
I used the stock headlight shell (had to do some grinding). If you're interested, I can post some pictures.
The easiest thing to do is to buy one of the Baja Designs headlight set-ups, but that will set you back at least $80.

What am I forgetting? Any other advice you have for me? Anyone else in the area care to tag along? I'm not the leader or the planner, so I guess it might be rude of me to invite others, but it's all public roads and as far as I can tell, everyone is invited.

Thanks in adavnce.

Used to do quite a bit of off-road in the national forest systems in Mississippi. The things we usually regretted (if we didn't bring them): water, snacks and that extra widget to make that trail side repair. :oops:
Oh yeah, don't forget the baling wire and duct tape :twisted:
Bill

[SpeedSouth]

Thanks for the info.

I may look into a whole new setup for the headlight. I'm selling off some of my other toys (JVC HD Camcorder currently on ebay, for example) to fund some of my needs, so it may be possible.

I think I need to do more to get the Lifan prepped for the ride, but I think the actual cost of the parts will be cheaper than what I'd spend on the EX.

I found (and saved) an ad on Craig's from a few weeks back from a guy offering to do custom seats. I thought I'd start by giving him a call, then maybe a few upholstery shops a little closer to home. I will certainly share pics and information on what I do. I know an older member did their own seat and it looked pretty nice. Maybe I'll dig that up and consider it more heavily.

I actually just bought a new (to me) gps that I'll have tomorrow, so I don't know what it will pull. I don't think it's much though. I just hate to pull any extra if the light dims w/ rpms, which I think it does. I may run a small voltmeter (datel makes a nice one) to help keep an eye on things.

I'll be making and mounting a tool tube to carry the tools and whatever else I can stuff in there. http://www.bluepoof.com/motorcycles/...225_tool_tube/

Thanks again for the info. I plan to post all of my prep info and pictures in this thread, so there's plenty of room for discussion and debate here. 8)

[BillR]

Originally Posted by SpeedSouth

Thanks for the info.
I actually just bought a new (to me) gps that I'll have tomorrow, so I don't know what it will pull. I don't think it's much though.

I just hate to pull any extra if the light dims w/ rpms, which I think it does. I may run a small voltmeter (datel makes a nice one) to help keep an eye on things.

I read up on a couple of devices and the amp draw looks to be minimal.
I still bet it won't be a problem.

My headlight did not dim with increased RPMs.
It dimmed when the voltage regulator cut the battery charge voltage as the battery topped off.
Even though the headlight was not hooked to the battery, somehow this affected the voltage going to the headlight from the stator.
I saw the same behavior at idle and holding it at 4K RPM.
If I increased the amp draw (by using a 55watt bulb) it didn't change at all.
Since changing over to the direct feed off the battery, no problems.
Course I only ride about 30-45 minutes at at time right now (work commute). I may see different behavior on a long ride.
Bill

[katoranger]

I don't think the GPS pulls enough to worry about it. Probably about 10watts.

I found great prices for tires and tubes from www.americanmototire.com the duro medians have done well for me. 60/40 tire. The work great on the street and good offroad. They are also cheap.

I would suggest upgrading to a better lighting setup.

Allen

[SpeedSouth]

Thanks again for the info.

I think I read on the Garmin site that the unit I plan to use pulls 11w.
I think I'm going to buy this - http://www.signaldynamics.com/products/Modules/HUVM.asp
It should be easy to tuck away on the Lifan and provide a little peace of mind.


Tire sizes are confusing to me. I have not looked at what is currently on the bike, but looking at the "Parts, Parts, Parts" thread I took down the sizes and went looking.

I do not see a Duro in the sizes listed for our bike (at americanmototire), so I'm curious to know if you selected a similar size, converted it into the other measurement instead of 110/90 (or 120/90) listed? Or if maybe they just don't have our size listed right now?

I haven't even looked at the front tires yet. I know a lot of TAT riders go with a set of Dunlop 606's (I think that's right). I think a 50/50 or 60/40 should be fine...but I'm open to a more agressive dirt tire. I kinda like the Perelli Scorpion.


I may have not explained the lighting thing well. I didn't mean it dims as the rpm's increase, I mean that it gets brighter. It could have simply been the battery being low, but it is something I want to eliminate if possible.


I'm considering this headlight from Acerbis - http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/produc...d=11402&mmyId=

But, as I understand it, the dimming problem is from voltage flux which a new light won't fix. A new light may produce more light and a better pattern, but I'm guessing I'll have address the dimming issue by wiring it off the battery, correct?

Any help in that department would be appreciated. If I can get away w/ just some rewiring and a better bulb I'll likely do that.


The rider list is up to 8 so far. Still plenty of time for others to jump in on the fun!

The dates are based around the Memorial Day weekend, allowing most riders to use the extra time off to keep the vacation time in check. Check your calendar and get the "honey do" list complete...then join me for a long ride.

C'mon...you know you want to go! 8)

[elroyjetsn]

Should be an awesome experience!

Do you have aux fuel container?

The stock rear shock will most likely fail. Hope you have a Japanese alternative of some sort. Keep the linkage lubed.

Heavy duty inner tubes and rim locks...

Fiberglass/carbon fiber the backside of all the plastics maybe.

I'd install a quality clutch as well. Don't know if aftermarket stuff for Hondas will work?

[katoranger]

I have the 90/90-21 front and the 4.10-18 rear tire in the Duro Median. I the the 120/80-18 will fit also and is slightly wider.

http://www.americanmototire.com/cata...oducts_id=1846

This maxxis also recieved some attention due to its low price also.

http://www.americanmototire.com/cata...th=200_246_247

I would go with the 90/90-21 front and the 120/80-18 rear. It is a 50/50 so it may be more what you want. I think this tire will be better in the off-road environment over the Duro.

Allen

[SpeedSouth]

I hate to sound like a broken record, but thanks for the specifics, Kato. I'll deffinately be looking into those.

Originally Posted by elroyjetsn

Should be an awesome experience!

Do you have aux fuel container?

The stock rear shock will most likely fail. Hope you have a Japanese alternative of some sort. Keep the linkage lubed.

Heavy duty inner tubes and rim locks...

Fiberglass/carbon fiber the backside of all the plastics maybe.

I'd install a quality clutch as well. Don't know if aftermarket stuff for Hondas will work?

I've been told that gas won't be an issue on this section, as it's never too far from a small town and/or a source of fuel. At least 2 guys have the TAT maps from Sam which highlight all the options. Further west it would be an issue, but I think I'll be okay with the stock tank.

Sounds like bad news on the shock. I've tried to dig up an easy option but there's a lot of varied opinion on the subject around here. I sure don't have the fab skills to reconstruct my linkage. 8O

The rest of the plastics will get the undercoating treament. The only parts left are the fork guards, headlight fairing and front fender. The inner rear would be a good idea too. That stuff is pretty durable once it cures.

I'll have to look into the clutch situation. You think stronger spings would be enough or all new friction plates? I sort of helped an old roomie change his clutch once. 78 Hawk 400, I think. Looked pretty easy, but all I really did was watch, and provide the oil.

As soon as it warms up a bit and I have the time, I'll put on a small rear sprocket and the larger drive pins.


Thanks again!

[katoranger]

I know that others have just upgraded the clutch springs with good results. It would probably take you an hour to it. The clutch is pretty straightforward.

Bear in mind that heavier springs with make the lever harder to pull and put may strain on your hand when alot of clutching is needed.

Allen

[Jim]

Maybe a good idea to upgrade the clutch cable if you d the springs? I've seen a few where they pulled the cable out from the little piece on the lever end.

[katoranger]

Pack the old one for a spare also.

Good tip Jim.

Allen

[elroyjetsn]

Here's a shock similar to the one i got. I'd check about the length, though.

May be a simple bolt on...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Beta-...ayphotohosting

[SpeedSouth]

Thanks for the link. I added it to my watch list and asked the seller a few questions.


Good idea on the cable. I was already considering some back-ups...but I think I may prefer to install new ones and just hold the originals for back-up.


Thanks again!


I went out yesterday and pulled the front fender and fork guards. I'll prep them for the undercoating treatment and hopefully coat them this weekend when it's warm.

[BillR]

Originally Posted by SpeedSouth

Thanks again for the info.

I think I read on the Garmin site that the unit I plan to use pulls 11w.
I think I'm going to buy this - http://www.signaldynamics.com/products/Modules/HUVM.asp
It should be easy to tuck away on the Lifan and provide a little peace of mind.

Not a bad idea. I like the peace of mind it would provide.

Originally Posted by SpeedSouth

I may have not explained the lighting thing well. I didn't mean it dims as the rpm's increase, I mean that it gets brighter. It could have simply been the battery being low, but it is something I want to eliminate if possible.

Could be the battery, but that sounds like the light is wired to the stator and it is doing what it is supposed to do. As the RPMs go up, so does the electrical output.

Originally Posted by SpeedSouth

I'm considering this headlight from Acerbis - http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/produc...d=11402&mmyId=
But, as I understand it, the dimming problem is from voltage flux which a new light won't fix. A new light may produce more light and a better pattern, but I'm guessing I'll have address the dimming issue by wiring it off the battery, correct?

Probably so if you want to have a steady light, no matter what RPM you are running.
I used this relay to wire mine off the battery:
http://www.culayer.com/Matchbox.htm
I tried running it off the stator, no change until I went to the direct battery connection.
I have it switched to the ignition and the left handle bar light switch. No power until the key is on and I can turn the headlight off while starting the bike.

TigerTamer did a similar set-up using available parts from an auto parts store.
http://www.chinariders.net/modules.p...ight=headlight

Originally Posted by SpeedSouth

Any help in that department would be appreciated. If I can get away w/ just some rewiring and a better bulb I'll likely do that.

Changing to the H4 bulb would require some grinding on the headlight shell and bulb holder. You can't change back, would have to buy a new shell.
That said, I did and have been very satisfied with the 45/45w H4 I'm currently running. My work commute is in the dark (12hr shifts) and I have plenty of light to see the road. (Several portions are on country roads without any street lights.)
I'll get some pics of the set-up and post this weekend.

It'll be a fun trip. Would love to go, but I'll be deep in getting things finalized for my daughters wedding in June :P

Bill