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Old 09-23-2019, 05:46 AM   #1
Paul2   Paul2 is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 81
rhino carb leak

Morning all,
Rhino 250, when i open the fuel petcock with the unit NOT running, the fuel comes out the black hose from the bottom of the carb bowl to no end, the drain screw on it is closed as well.
Safe to assume its a stuck float? Good whack with a hammer to loosen?
or any other safer thoughts.
Thanks


 
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Old 09-23-2019, 09:12 AM   #2
Deckard_Cain   Deckard_Cain is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul2 View Post
Morning all,
Rhino 250, when i open the fuel petcock with the unit NOT running, the fuel comes out the black hose from the bottom of the carb bowl to no end, the drain screw on it is closed as well.
Safe to assume its a stuck float? Good whack with a hammer to loosen?
or any other safer thoughts.
Thanks
I'd prefer to remove carb and disassemble float bowl, get a good visual on what's going on in there. Assuming the float bowl screws are removable. If not, good xxcuse to buy a new carb that is rebuildable.


 
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Old 09-23-2019, 10:39 AM   #3
Paul2   Paul2 is offline
 
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ya, but of course, ugh such junk.
Thanks for confirming., wouldn't mind but i only use ethanol free from pristine tanks then thru a fuel spout mesh filter.
I'm getting to the point of maintenance overcoming usage.
Time for a huge upgrade..
Thanks again.


 
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Old 09-23-2019, 06:05 PM   #4
Darth Racer   Darth Racer is offline
 
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Sounds like the float needle is stuck open.... sometimes the actual float will get full of gas to and not be able to float. A hammer might not do it.


Check your oil so that no fuel got into the cylinder, past the rings, and into the crankcase... if the oil smells like gas change it. You can check the sight glass too... if its level is higher then normal you most likely have gas in your oil now.


 
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Old 09-23-2019, 06:09 PM   #5
Mudflap   Mudflap is offline
 
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An aftermarket carb is just as likely to get clogged as the original. You can slot the screws with a Dremel tool to remove the bowl.


 
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Old 09-24-2019, 06:15 AM   #6
Paul2   Paul2 is offline
 
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Im removing the carb and will cut slots to open the carb, I was just pissed of the constant motion of repairs, I also checked the oil level and its the same so apparently nothing in the oil.
Thanks all, I'll give an update.


 
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Old 09-24-2019, 10:54 AM   #7
dugndeep   dugndeep is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Lancaster,Ky
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I just noticed on my Bull 200,fuel hose from petcock to carb is starting to seap,wet looking around the clamp on petcock.I reckon I'm going to start replacing fuel lines along with some quality clamps.I ordered some 3/16" clear fuel line.Haven't found any quality clamps yet.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Petcock 003.jpg (68.8 KB, 253 views)
File Type: jpg Petcock 001.jpg (81.3 KB, 252 views)
File Type: jpg Petcock 002.jpg (70.6 KB, 284 views)


 
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Old 09-24-2019, 10:57 AM   #8
dugndeep   dugndeep is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul2 View Post
Im removing the carb and will cut slots to open the carb, I was just pissed of the constant motion of repairs, I also checked the oil level and its the same so apparently nothing in the oil.
Thanks all, I'll give an update.
I'm hoping the carb is easier to get to on the Rhino than the carb on the Bull,just getting the air filter hose back on was a job.


 
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Old 09-24-2019, 02:09 PM   #9
Paul2   Paul2 is offline
 
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I'll let you know after tonight, I'll be pulling the carb, but replacing with cone filter and hopefully corrected carb.


 
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Old 09-24-2019, 02:43 PM   #10
Mudflap   Mudflap is offline
 
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EZ to get to on the Rhino. BTW rubber fuel line from the auto parts store works great. I've had the clear stuff (think it was Tygon) crack and even melt!


 
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Old 09-24-2019, 08:51 PM   #11
Paul2   Paul2 is offline
 
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Lastly,
So the carb was removed, and i tried to dremEL out the set screws like everyone does, but my screws were broken off below the casting and even with a dremel it was tough to get into the screw to try and get a screwdriver in the new slot i made, alas,, no luck, so i used choke cleaner and could hear the float moving around, i reinstalled the throttle cable and choke cable exactly, but still a fuel overflow, so i'LL BUY A new carb, but,,when i tried starting it i noticed the thumb throttle had zero tension on it, and the engine was raving crazy.
when i reinstalled the throttle on the carb there was a needle valve that went right into the hole in the carb and the plastic sleeve and spring just screwed right in w/o issue long with it.. and when removed and pushing the throttle the needle valve did move.
Did i install something wrong with the throttle going into the carb to make the carb rev to max when i start it now?
or is the real issue still in the carb, with a new one on its way anyhow.
thoughts?
ps-when it starts and revs to max the only way to slow it is throw the choke lever to the opposite direction, and the throttle level does nothing..?
ugh...


 
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Old 09-25-2019, 09:27 AM   #12
Paul2   Paul2 is offline
 
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found the issue.
when you pull the throttle from the top of the carb, it unscrews with a spring, needle valve and plastic insert. Well the plastic piece needs to have the notch or cutout face the air intake tube.
Problem solved..


 
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Old 09-25-2019, 11:01 AM   #13
dugndeep   dugndeep is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mudflap View Post
EZ to get to on the Rhino. BTW rubber fuel line from the auto parts store works great. I've had the clear stuff (think it was Tygon) crack and even melt!
Real F-4040-A Tygon fuel hose isn't cheap,$1 to $2 a foot for 3/16",which 3 foot would probably do the whole atv.I'm going with better clamps to start out before replacing fuel lines,even though I know the fuel lines will probably need replacing also.


 
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