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Old 06-29-2016, 11:43 PM   #16
BlackBike   BlackBike is offline
 
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Location: George West, Texas
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First the speedos now the fuel gauge. Very conservative
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Old 06-30-2016, 01:34 AM   #17
pcspecialist   pcspecialist is offline
 
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 583
Quote:
Originally Posted by w0ss View Post
Mine shows empty at 1/2 tank. How do I bend the wire? from inside the tank or remove the tank?
I removed the sender from the tank, took the 90 degree bend closest to the float and made it a 45 degree bend. I also took the bend closest to the sender and bent it such that the float is centered between the outside of the tank and the U.


 
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Old 06-03-2018, 09:15 AM   #18
Redbookaudio   Redbookaudio is offline
 
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Hi PC.... I'm brand new to motorcycles and am helping my daughter with her new Hawk250. So far, so good...learning a TON!
What is the "sender", where is it, and how is it removed? After the float adjustments did you put the sender back in place? Thank you....


 
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Old 06-03-2018, 10:22 AM   #19
Emerikol   Emerikol is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Carrollton, GA
Posts: 1,465
Quote:
Originally Posted by jet321 View Post
Has anyone experienced a positive improvement with the digital gauges that matt's selling? Do y'all use 93 or regular in your bikes??
I've had mine for almost two years, and I can happily say that Matt's digital cluster is worth the money. Never had a problem with it, and it comes with pretty decent instructions on how to set up the gear indicator wiring. Took me all of about an hour to remove the old setup and install the digital unit. I would highly recommend. As for the fuel gauge, that's a different story. It reads full for about the first half of the tank, then very quickly goes down to E. Not the fault of the digital display unit, just one of the quirks of Chinese manufacturing and QA. I tend to go about 150 miles before I start looking for a gas station. So far I'm averaging about 65-70 miles per gallon on the bike, and that's with mostly around town errands and such. I run QT premium fuel as exclusively as I can, but regardless of the brand, it's always premium. I do the occasional long haul where I'm at WOT for several miles, but it doesn't seem to impact the fuel economy too much. I run a 17/39 sprocket setup, and about 60'ish MPH (GPS verified) is really all it's got. Whoever said that the stock knobbies were sketchy at speed absolutely hit that nail on the head. I think that when I burn these tires out and get switched over to a set of Shinko 705's (what I run on my DR), the bike will be much easier to handle, and possible gain a few MPH without all the interference from the knobbies. That's likely to be a project I handle in the next four or five months.
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I was struggling to get my wife's attention; I sat down on the couch and looked comfortable. That did the trick!

My wife says I only have two faults. I don't listen and something else...

If at first you don't succeed, try doing it the way I told you to...

The Stable:
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Old 06-04-2018, 05:41 PM   #20
timcosby   timcosby is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: robertsdale alabama usa
Posts: 1,007
the metal "ears" on the sending unit can be bebt till you get accurate readings. it is attached under the tank.
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Old 05-25-2022, 09:19 PM   #21
kwarb   kwarb is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2022
Posts: 6
Mine will read very low to empty at start up. Then after about 10 minutes driving will start to show some fuel, and after about 30 minutes it will read full if my tank is actually near full and rather accurately otherwise. 3 months and 600 miles on bike and no change since day 1. I clearly have some issue where the fuel indicator circuit is being affected by bike temperature, but I have not had the chance to remove the sender and test it yet. Does anyone know when the sender is disconnected from the other electronics if the resistance on the potentiometer increases or decreases with rising level? If not I will report to the community after I pull mine. May be a new thread since this one is very old.


 
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