Just took delivery of my new Venom X22R... - Page 2

Psomniferum · 03-07-2020, 01:42 PM

Exactly, Megadan! That's what I figured happened to MY bike! Someone just threw it in a truck. Til I watched the security footage! They had to stop me from kicking myself, guy just walks up, tugs on it, kicks it out of gear, and away he went! My bike weighs around 260lbs. wet. My buddy and I threw it in the back of the truck to take to DMV. Didn't take much...

Chrisguga · 03-07-2020, 04:33 PM

Ah yes, cable lube. I went ahead and bought that lube and the pricey tool. I want to get an enduro next year, probably a Brozz or the Orion, so I figure it’s worth investing in good motorcycle specific tools.

Psomniferum · 03-07-2020, 04:44 PM

Have you heard of a double O-ring chain? That was one of the first swaps I heard of after getting my bike. You can still lube the chain, if you wish. But I heard it's way less crucial with a double O-ring. They're better lubed to begin with and the lube stays a lot longer.

Chrisguga · 03-07-2020, 04:58 PM

I’ve heard of them, but also read the chain that comes stock on the bike is pretty decent. I’ll run the stock chain for a while and if I end up having to adjust it frequently, I’ll upgrade.

My next round of mods will include a 35-36 tooth rear sprocket and some sort of bag(s).

**JerryHawk250** · 03-09-2020, 08:37 AM

An o-ring chain isn't really necessary on these bikes as you're not taking this bike off road in the dirt and mud. When you do finally have to replace it then buy an o-ring chain. I have 500 miles on the stock chain and it only stretch a little within the first 20 miles or so and hasn't stretched anymore since then.

I have an o-ring chain installed on my Hawk because when I take that bike off road it gets covered in sandy mud and water. With a regular chain I would have to pull the chain after a ride in the spillway and give it a good cleaning and then soak it in gear oil afterward. With the o-ring chain I could just wash it down real good while on the bike and just spray it with chain lube afterwards.

As far as the sprocket. I think you told me you weigh a little more than I do. I think the 36 tooth might be a better choice. I do have a 34 tooth installed right now but I think I should of gone with a 35 tooth which puts me at the same gear ratio as my Hawk. I found that the 34 tooth puts the chain right on the hub and is just a little to tall for my liking. It may be okay once I do the head work. I know the engine will loosen up some more once I hit around a 1000 miles. I already have a 16 tooth and might try that one just to see how I like it for now.

Chrisguga · 03-09-2020, 12:12 PM

Thanks for the tip on the sprocket, Jerry. I’m 6’3” and 230lbs. Headed to get it registered now! I’m hoping to take a spin around town tonight.

I don’t want to go far until I check the valves though. I assume checking the valves with the feeler gauge is the same procedure as a Hawk? There are several videos on the Hawks, but none on this bike that I’ve seen.

**JerryHawk250** · 03-09-2020, 01:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chrisguga

Thanks for the tip on the sprocket, Jerry. I’m 6’3” and 230lbs. Headed to get it registered now! I’m hoping to take a spin around town tonight.

I don’t want to go far until I check the valves though. I assume checking the valves with the feeler gauge is the same procedure as a Hawk? There are several videos on the Hawks, but none on this bike that I’ve seen.

The valve adjustment procedure is a little different than the Hawk. Clearance will be the same. Do not attempt to remove the valve cover. You will have to remove the two round caps on the valve cover to access the valve adjusters. I was able to do mine without removing the tank but the intake vales are a pain to get to. If you haven't much experience in valve adjustment you will save yourself a lot of frustration by going the extra step of removing the tank. Many curse words came out my mouth only to find my valves were pretty close to spec. lol It's a good thing that tinkering around with these engine help relax my mind.

You might be okay until you get a few miles on it.
On my next oil change I will check them after I get some hours on the engine. The fairing is easy to remove and reinstall. I've probably done it 3 times already. This past weekend I removed it to replace one cracked panel that I missed when inspecting for shipping damage. Venom was quick to send out a replacement.

Chrisguga · 03-09-2020, 02:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JerryHawk250

The valve adjustment procedure is a little different than the Hawk. Clearance will be the same. Do not attempt to remove the valve cover. You will have to remove the two round caps on the valve cover to access the valve adjusters. I was able to do mine without removing the tank but the intake vales are a pain to get to. If you haven't much experience in valve adjustment you will save yourself a lot of frustration by going the extra step of removing the tank. Many curse words came out my mouth only to find my valves were pretty close to spec. lol It's a good thing that tinkering around with these engine help relax my mind.

You might be okay until you get a few miles on it.
On my next oil change I will check them after I get some hours on the engine. The fairing is easy to remove and reinstall. I've probably done it 3 times already. This past weekend I removed it to replace one cracked panel that I missed when inspecting for shipping damage. Venom was quick to send out a replacement.

Is removing the tank pretty straight forward? Any tips on that? I’ve never removed a motorcycle tank nor have I checked valve tolerances.

**JerryHawk250** · 03-09-2020, 02:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chrisguga

Is removing the tank pretty straight forward? Any tips on that? I’ve never removed a motorcycle tank nor have I checked valve tolerances.

I haven't removed the tank on this bike yet but looks like the same process as the Hawk. Shut the gas off at the petcock. That will be in the middle position. Disconnect the fuel line. Once you have the fairing removed there is a single bolt at the rear of the tank. Lift the tank up from the rear and disconnect the fuel sending unit. You should be able to lift it up and off after that. I'm not sure if the fuel over flow is connected to anything that I could see but sure you will know when you do. lol I don't know if you are planning to install an oil cooler or not but that would be the best time to do this while you have it all apart. I didn't remove my tank because I wasn't thinking and fill my tank full.

Chrisguga · 03-09-2020, 02:42 PM

Cool, thanks. I see you have oil coolers on both of your bikes. Obviously you feel that’s important since the oil for the engine and transmission is one in the same. I haven’t really researched oil coolers at all.

I could order the oil cooler and then install it when I do the valves. I’ll read up on them tonight.

**JerryHawk250** · 03-09-2020, 03:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chrisguga

Cool, thanks. I see you have oil coolers on both of your bikes. Obviously you feel that’s important since the oil for the engine and transmission is one in the same. I haven’t really researched oil coolers at all.

I could order the oil cooler and then install it when I do the valves. I’ll read up on them tonight.

It was necessary on the Hawk because of the higher compression ratio. It really extends the oil life which in turns extends the engine life. I was checking the oil yesterday and with 500 miles on it the oil hasn't changed color. It's still a nice golden brown. Before I installed an oil cooler on my hawk the oil would be black at 500 miles and this was before I did the head work. I think I paid under $60 for mine. I think it's worth it. My Hawk has over 7800 miles on it. I ran a bore scope in it about a month ago just for the heck of it and didn't see any signs of wear or scaring.

**JerryHawk250** · 03-09-2020, 03:33 PM

You might want to pick this kit up from member Nzbrakelates. it will make vale adjustment much easier on these engines. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hawk-250-Ap...IAAOSwCVtcOuVd

Chrisguga · 03-09-2020, 07:18 PM

Hmm.. this is a little troubling in the gas tank.

Chrisguga · 03-09-2020, 07:20 PM

Damn, it’s worse off to the side. Thoughts?

**JerryHawk250** · 03-09-2020, 07:51 PM

Wow, that doesn't look good. I know I checked my tank before I put gas in it and was clean. I would send that picture to Venom.

03-07-2020, 04:44 PM	#18
Psomniferum Join Date: Jan 2020 Location: California Posts: 75	Have you heard of a double O-ring chain? That was one of the first swaps I heard of after getting my bike. You can still lube the chain, if you wish. But I heard it's way less crucial with a double O-ring. They're better lubed to begin with and the lube stays a lot longer. __________________ 2018 Venom x22/125cc (Baodiao 125-11) Lifan 150cc w/TB V2 roller-rocker head, Mikuni vm26 carb, and FMF muffler
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03-09-2020, 08:37 AM	#20
JerryHawk250 Moderator Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Houma, La. Posts: 11,550	An o-ring chain isn't really necessary on these bikes as you're not taking this bike off road in the dirt and mud. When you do finally have to replace it then buy an o-ring chain. I have 500 miles on the stock chain and it only stretch a little within the first 20 miles or so and hasn't stretched anymore since then. I have an o-ring chain installed on my Hawk because when I take that bike off road it gets covered in sandy mud and water. With a regular chain I would have to pull the chain after a ride in the spillway and give it a good cleaning and then soak it in gear oil afterward. With the o-ring chain I could just wash it down real good while on the bike and just spray it with chain lube afterwards. As far as the sprocket. I think you told me you weigh a little more than I do. I think the 36 tooth might be a better choice. I do have a 34 tooth installed right now but I think I should of gone with a 35 tooth which puts me at the same gear ratio as my Hawk. I found that the 34 tooth puts the chain right on the hub and is just a little to tall for my liking. It may be okay once I do the head work. I know the engine will loosen up some more once I hit around a 1000 miles. I already have a 16 tooth and might try that one just to see how I like it for now. __________________ 2023 Lifan Lycan 250 Chopper 2023 Venom Evader 2022 Lifan KPX250 2020 Kawasaki Vulcan S 2004 Honda ST 1300 2016 Black Hawk 250 (sold) Keihin PE30 carb,125 main,38 slow.Pod filter,ported & decked head 10:1 CR,Direct Ignition Coil,15/40Sprockets,NGK DPR8EIX-9,De-Cat,Dual Oil Cooler,Digital Cluster 2016 Cazador180 XL 2014 Coolster150 JerryHawk250.com My YouTube Channel
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03-09-2020, 03:33 PM	#27
JerryHawk250 Moderator Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Houma, La. Posts: 11,550	You might want to pick this kit up from member Nzbrakelates. it will make vale adjustment much easier on these engines. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hawk-250-Ap...IAAOSwCVtcOuVd __________________ 2023 Lifan Lycan 250 Chopper 2023 Venom Evader 2022 Lifan KPX250 2020 Kawasaki Vulcan S 2004 Honda ST 1300 2016 Black Hawk 250 (sold) Keihin PE30 carb,125 main,38 slow.Pod filter,ported & decked head 10:1 CR,Direct Ignition Coil,15/40Sprockets,NGK DPR8EIX-9,De-Cat,Dual Oil Cooler,Digital Cluster 2016 Cazador180 XL 2014 Coolster150 JerryHawk250.com My YouTube Channel
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03-09-2020, 07:51 PM	#30
JerryHawk250 Moderator Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Houma, La. Posts: 11,550	Wow, that doesn't look good. I know I checked my tank before I put gas in it and was clean. I would send that picture to Venom. __________________ 2023 Lifan Lycan 250 Chopper 2023 Venom Evader 2022 Lifan KPX250 2020 Kawasaki Vulcan S 2004 Honda ST 1300 2016 Black Hawk 250 (sold) Keihin PE30 carb,125 main,38 slow.Pod filter,ported & decked head 10:1 CR,Direct Ignition Coil,15/40Sprockets,NGK DPR8EIX-9,De-Cat,Dual Oil Cooler,Digital Cluster 2016 Cazador180 XL 2014 Coolster150 JerryHawk250.com My YouTube Channel
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03-07-2020, 01:42 PM	#16
Psomniferum Join Date: Jan 2020 Location: California Posts: 75	Exactly, Megadan! That's what I figured happened to MY bike! Someone just threw it in a truck. Til I watched the security footage! They had to stop me from kicking myself, guy just walks up, tugs on it, kicks it out of gear, and away he went! My bike weighs around 260lbs. wet. My buddy and I threw it in the back of the truck to take to DMV. Didn't take much...
	0

03-07-2020, 04:33 PM	#17
Chrisguga Join Date: Feb 2020 Posts: 187	Ah yes, cable lube. I went ahead and bought that lube and the pricey tool. I want to get an enduro next year, probably a Brozz or the Orion, so I figure it’s worth investing in good motorcycle specific tools.
	1

03-07-2020, 04:58 PM	#19
Chrisguga Join Date: Feb 2020 Posts: 187	I’ve heard of them, but also read the chain that comes stock on the bike is pretty decent. I’ll run the stock chain for a while and if I end up having to adjust it frequently, I’ll upgrade. My next round of mods will include a 35-36 tooth rear sprocket and some sort of bag(s).
	2

03-09-2020, 12:12 PM	#21
Chrisguga Join Date: Feb 2020 Posts: 187	Thanks for the tip on the sprocket, Jerry. I’m 6’3” and 230lbs. Headed to get it registered now! I’m hoping to take a spin around town tonight. I don’t want to go far until I check the valves though. I assume checking the valves with the feeler gauge is the same procedure as a Hawk? There are several videos on the Hawks, but none on this bike that I’ve seen.
	0

03-09-2020, 02:42 PM	#25
Chrisguga Join Date: Feb 2020 Posts: 187	Cool, thanks. I see you have oil coolers on both of your bikes. Obviously you feel that’s important since the oil for the engine and transmission is one in the same. I haven’t really researched oil coolers at all. I could order the oil cooler and then install it when I do the valves. I’ll read up on them tonight.
	0