Disable Front Brake Requirement to Start - Templar Pro X 250

[knwilson]

Anyone know if it's possible to disable the "feature" requiring the front brake to be held/engaged in order to start the Templar Pro X 250s?

I am fighting some starting issues and it's getting really annoying remembering the whole sequence of finger choke, front brake, push button (and try to twist throttle while still holding brake).

Also, can these be push started with this front brake "feature"?

[Texas Pete]

Its just a switch. Either the two wires are connected or disconnected.

The switch is in the circuit for the electric starter motor and not in the circuit for the spark plug energization.

[bogieboy]

What pete said... on my shineray i cut the wires and buttcrimped them together.

[Fast_Freddy]

The problem with bypassing the brake interconnect is the loss of a functional brake light. I too hate this safety "feature" but need a working brake light. If you ride strictly off road and don't care about a brake light, just cut the two wires and connect them.

If it helps, you can also use the rear brake to start the bike.

[Texas Pete]

Try looking at the other end of the circuit. If the electric starter motor circuit activates when voltage is applied across either brake control to brake light circuit then you just need to find where it feeds off to sensor, or relay and cut that out of the brake circuit and feed a constant voltage to it from the key turned on circuit.

[Zooker89]

Originally Posted by Texas Pete

Try looking at the other end of the circuit. If the electric starter motor circuit activates when voltage is applied across either brake control to brake light circuit then you just need to find where it feeds off to sensor, or relay and cut that out of the brake circuit and feed a constant voltage to it from the key turned on circuit.

Good to know. not there yet, but may need (want) it

[knwilson]

Originally Posted by Fast_Freddy

If it helps, you can also use the rear brake to start the bike.

Wow. I don’t know why I never thought to use the rear brake. Didn’t know that would work…

Thanks for the insights.

Now back to figuring out why the hell this thing with 4 miles on it won’t start anymore.

[DR@G0NR1DR]

Originally Posted by knwilson

Wow. I don’t know why I never thought to use the rear brake. Didn’t know that would work…

Thanks for the insights.

Now back to figuring out why the hell this thing with 4 miles on it won’t start anymore.

My Templar M did that, with about 5 miles on it. They ended up sending me a new carb.

[Fast_Freddy]

Originally Posted by knwilson

Wow. I don’t know why I never thought to use the rear brake. Didn’t know that would work…

Thanks for the insights.

Now back to figuring out why the hell this thing with 4 miles on it won’t start anymore.

The rear brake works on my base Templar and should work on the X&M also. Have you re-jetted yet? The first thing I did on my Templar was re-jet the carb. I started it once before that and it was obviously way too lean. I ground the float bowl screw heads off but if I had it to do again I'd just buy a new Nibbi, jet it with 125 main, 42 pilot and 2 turns out on the idle mixture screw and swap carbs. Mine starts and runs so much better with the mentioned jets.

Good luck.

[knwilson]

Originally Posted by Fast_Freddy

The rear brake works on my base Templar and should work on the X&M also. Have you re-jetted yet? The first thing I did on my Templar was re-jet the carb. I started it once before that and it was obviously way too lean. I ground the float bowl screw heads off but if I had it to do again I'd just buy a new Nibbi, jet it with 125 main, 42 pilot and 2 turns out on the idle mixture screw and swap carbs. Mine starts and runs so much better with the mentioned jets.

Good luck.

What's your elevation if you don't mind? I am installing a Nibbi 30mm this weekend.

It comes with the following:
1 x Slow Jet
Available Size #40
3 x Power Jet
Available Size: #120 122 125

I'm at 1400' - Was thinking about starting with the #120 and #40...

[Fast_Freddy]

Originally Posted by knwilson

What's your elevation if you don't mind? I am installing a Nibbi 30mm this weekend.

It comes with the following:
1 x Slow Jet
Available Size #40
3 x Power Jet
Available Size: #120 122 125
https://www.chinariders.net/images/smilies/nod2.gif
I'm at 1400' - Was thinking about starting with the #120 and #40...

I'm at 450' ASL. My carb is 28mm and I expect a 30mm carb would need more fuel. I would probably start at 42 and 125 (FWIW). You might be okay with the 40 if you go 2-3 turns out on the idle mixture. GL

[Captain Velveeta]

The absolute craziest thing happened. I have a '22 X-Pro Templar 250 and I went out to adjust the handle bars. I loosened the hex bolts, pushed the bars forward a couple of inches, centered the bars and tightened the hex bolts back down. Here's the crazy part. NOW I can start the bike by just pulling in the front brake. I shit you not. I have no explanation whatsoever as to why or how this changed but now, I turn the key on and just pull in the front brake and it works just like a starter. I don't have to pull the clutch or anything. I just make sure it's in neutral. I was actually going to research the wiring after adjusting the handlebars to see how to disable the "hold the front brake while starting" issue. It's been about a week now and I kept waiting for it to go back to normal but it has remained the same. During operation the front brake works like it should. I'm not gonna research it anymore cuz I don't wanna look a gift hoarse in the mouth if you know what I mean.

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by Captain Velveeta

The absolute craziest thing happened. I have a '22 X-Pro Templar 250 and I went out to adjust the handle bars. I loosened the hex bolts, pushed the bars forward a couple of inches, centered the bars and tightened the hex bolts back down. Here's the crazy part. NOW I can start the bike by just pulling in the front brake. I shit you not. I have no explanation whatsoever as to why or how this changed but now, I turn the key on and just pull in the front brake and it works just like a starter. I don't have to pull the clutch or anything. I just make sure it's in neutral. I was actually going to research the wiring after adjusting the handlebars to see how to disable the "hold the front brake while starting" issue. It's been about a week now and I kept waiting for it to go back to normal but it has remained the same. During operation the front brake works like it should. I'm not gonna research it anymore cuz I don't wanna look a gift hoarse in the mouth if you know what I mean.

CHECK to make sure that your STARTER button isn't stuck IN. Wiggle it out. Make sure it isn't stuck ON while riding. It will drain the battery and destroy your starter. It happened with my 6 speed. The starter button can get sidewys, stuck.

That explains it.

[Thumper]

There was a post in the Templar X 250 thread from IA_gravel runner on how to defeat the brake lever pull to start requirement. I think it makes it a clutch pull start requirement, but he will have to explain. If true, it is easier than a brake lever pull while pressing the button and controlling throttle!

https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...postcount=1305

[vividpixel]

To clarify something for lurkers and future Templar owners, there is no requirement to pull the front brake specifically; either brake works. It's still undesirable behavior but holding the rear brake also allows the Templar to start.