Another Oil Change

[jbfla]

The CSC tutorial says to change the oil at 200 miles, and then again at 1,000 miles with synthetic oil. Then every 2,000 miles.

The Owner's Manual says to change the oil at 500 miles, and then every 2,500 miles.

I'm OK with either one. But my curiosity got the better of me.

This was the drain plug at the 200 mile oil change:




I kept wondering if the drain plug would look like that next time.

So here's the drain plug at 600 miles:




I also noticed some sort of sealing compound on the oil screen, and around the threads on the drain plug (see above photo)



So it cost me $20 to satisfy my curiosity (filter and 2 qts. of oil).

It took a little less time for this change:

And I really miss my table lift (in NC). It's tough for an old guy to be crawling around on the ground.



Then lubed the chain (every 200 miles):



jb

[Jay In Milpitas]

Very much like I found, JB.

I don't think ahead to take pics, so no photo trail. Just for investigation sake, I changed oil at 250, 500, 750, then went to synthetic at 1,000 miles.

At 250, lots of ferrous fluff on the magnet, bits of chaff/fluff on both screens. Cut open and did a post mortem on the filter element and found only expected amounts of metals there, both ferrous and otherwise. Didn't do spectrum analysis, though.

At 500, almost nothing in the screens and much reduced levels in the filter element.

At 750 & 1000 everything diminished to low levels as I would expect of a high quality, precision made high dollar machine.

I just didn't pay high dollars for it. Ain't it sweet?

[jbfla]

Originally Posted by Jay In Milpitas

......

At 750 & 1000 everything diminished to low levels as I would expect of a high quality, precision made high dollar machine.

I just didn't pay high dollars for it. Ain't it sweet?

jb

[SpudRider]

Thanks for posting the informative photos.

I like the reflectors on the side and rear of the panniers. I also like your swingarm stand. Who makes it, and how much does it cost? Can you post a link for that swingarm stand?

[detours]

Thanks for the pics and write up of your observations. I had a similar experience to yours, though I didn't change the oil as often. I'm looking forward to my next change to synthetic.

[jbfla]

Originally Posted by SpudRider

...... Can you post a link for that swingarm stand?

I've been using a rear paddock stand on my TW for years. Makes it easy to lube the chain.

This is the one I have been using on the TW in NC:

http://www.cyclegear.com/TRACKSIDE-Rear-Paddock-Stand

I wanted another one for FL but was too lazy to drive the 25 miles to the Cycle Gear store. So I ordered it online, and that's what they sent me...a substitution, but it works OK.

I prefer the one with dual wheels, and the substituted stand seems to take more effort to lift the bike. However, the RX3 is heavier than the TW.

Using the rear stand takes some coordination to use if you don't have the front wheel secured.

It is possible for the bike to take a tumble. Then you get to see how well the crash bars on the RX3 work....

jb

[SpudRider]

I have a T-Rex swingarm stand I have been using for the last 7 years. It works well for all my motorcycles.

[jbfla]

Spud, that looks like a TW on that stand.

Didn't know you had one, only the Zong with the TW clone engine.

jb

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by jbfla

Spud, that looks like a TW on that stand.

Didn't know you had one, only the Zong with the TW clone engine.

jb

That is my Zongshen Sierra (ZS200GY-2) on the stand. Both the ZS200GY-2 (Sierra), and ZS250GY-3 (RX3) are manufactured with 15-inch rear wheels, mounted with size 130/90-15, rear tires.

I took that photograph while the 15-inch knobby tire was rare, but still available in North America. After that tire wore out, I couldn't find 15-inch knobby tire. Therefore, I converted the bike to a Yamaha XT225 swingarm, and switched to an 18-inch rear wheel, and the XT225 shock absorber.



http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=5644

[jbfla]

Ahhhh..... Before and after.



jb

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by jbfla

Ahhhh..... Before and after.



jb

Yes, here is a photo of the Zongshen Sierra with the original wheels.



Here is a later photo of the Zongshen Sierra, after a few modifications.

[jbfla]

The "after" looks much better.

So all that is left of the original Zong is the main part of the frame and the engine?

CSC must have gotten the idea of the TT250 from looking at your bike.

jb

[SpudRider]

Thank you.

The carburetor, air box, and 37mm USD forks are also stock. I only trimmed the plastic a little.

[SpudRider]

Here is a better photo of my Zongshen Sierra, in stock configuration.

[Co2]

Originally Posted by jbfla

I also noticed some sort of sealing compound on the oil screen, and around the threads on the drain plug (see above photo)



jb

İf that part is soft sliconise/plastic and color grey, yes it is middle crankcase seal

Nice topic/thread , im make first 3000 kilometr ( first 50 , 150 , every 150+ 300>>>3000 km i adviced that methode, i know that is not economic, but best way for motor healt, and RPM limite using, evvery gears,every rpms, but never use long time same continius high rpm) my moto much period oil change every time i use 10-40 cstrl ( for motocycle.) 3000 km later decrease that metal micron dusts.

Oil filter steel is long life, cleean easy, and i think best.