TT250 CG Motor Clutch

[mtiberio]

Why does the clutch on my TT250 feel so pathetic. Forget about fanning it or giving it any abuse, it just chatters and slips. Is this a result of building a 230cc motor around a clutch designed for a 125? Are there some decent japanese/honda clutch plates and springs that can beef it up? Is the basket strong?

Just to continue this rant, the transmission doesn't shift as cleanly as a japanese transmission would. Should I just STFU and live with my bargain chinese ride?

[ughmas]

Mine chatters when starting out in first gear all of a sudden, does not feel how it did when I first got it, starting to get a little concerned myself actually. All the other gears feel OK but there is a noticeable chatter/clunk when starting from a dead stop now.

[2LZ]

Originally Posted by mtiberio

Why does the clutch on my TT250 feel so pathetic. Forget about fanning it or giving it any abuse, it just chatters and slips. Is this a result of building a 230cc motor around a clutch designed for a 125? Are there some decent japanese/honda clutch plates and springs that can beef it up? Is the basket strong?

Just to continue this rant, the transmission doesn't shift as cleanly as a japanese transmission would. Should I just STFU and live with my bargain chinese ride?

For what it's worth, the China clutch may not have that buttery smooth feel of a Japanese clutch, especially at first, but I've abused the heck out of my CG clutches without any breakage or problems, so abuse-wise, they can take it. I beat the tar out of my Rhino dragging things up and down our back hill without a problem.

How many miles do you have on it?
What oil are you running? My CG clutches have been pretty particular to the oil it drinks. 15W-40 diesel is always a good choice. I'm a big proponent of synthetic but the CG's seem to actually like dino oil better. The clutch quits chattering.
You'll also need to change the oil quite frequently in the first 2500 miles or so. When it starts to chatter, change it. It's only a quart.
It will get better with miles too.

[mtiberio]

I went with 15-50 synth on my first change. I'll switch back to Rotella or Valvoline non-synth for the next one. Have about 500 miles on her...

[Mudflap]

One other thing to check is the engine mounting bolts. If they are not real tight it can feel like the clutch is chattering. My Lifan did that until I discovered the problem. The engine was moving slightly as the clutch was engaged.

[rojo_grande]

I do have a bit of chatter as well in first gear only from a stop and gets grabby, not smooth. No issues with chatter in other gears. Generally only when the bike is hot. Get's a bit harder to shift when at times when hot as well. Adjusting the clutch cable seems to mostly cure the issue. I think since the clutch cable runs down by the exhaust it tends to get quite warm and sloppy causing the chatter.

I've got 1400+ kilo-miles and another 100 or so actual miles on the new tach cluster. Running Rotella 15-40 non synthetic (what I've used in my KLR for years with no issues) and on my third oil change. Good point on the engine mounting bolts Mudflap. There is certainly noise from the clutch.

Rojo

[Weldangrind]

There is no noticeable chatter on my Lifan, which uses a similar motor and identical clutch. Ensure that the cable is properly lubricated (I like Maxima Chain Wax on cables) and take the time to adjust the cable properly.

[ughmas]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

There is no noticeable chatter on my Lifan, which uses a similar motor and identical clutch. Ensure that the cable is properly lubricated (I like Maxima Chain Wax on cables) and take the time to adjust the cable properly.

I have already adjusted it and the cable is smooth, I can feel the chatter coming from inside the transmission :\

As Rojo said it is more prevalent when the engine is hot and in our case only from a stop in first gear. Even after my oil change it has remained.

[Azhule]

What type of Carb and settings (jets, needle clip, etc.) do you currently have? Sprocket sizes? Clutch Freeplay Set? Valves adjusted recently?

Would be a few questions I would ask to help narrow down if it's a "Power Delivery / Chatter issue" or an actual "Clutch / Spring / Chatter" problem

[Merlin]

Originally Posted by mtiberio

I went with 15-50 synth on my first change....

This could be your problem. What was the oil you used?

['16 TT250]

Mine is perfectly smooth, both clutch and trans. I even start out in 2nd frequently as 1st is so short it's pointless unless I need to jump off the line quickly. But my mileage is much lower than yours so maybe it's just a new thing.

Make sure nothing's loose or tweaked; engine mounting, sprockets, etc. It could be the oil too. I've had lots of bikes and some of them are pickier than others. I've even found where two different bikes of the same model have different preferences.

[Mudflap]

One thing that will make a clutch chatter is if the plates are dry at assembly. Should be soaked with oil before being assembled.

[2LZ]

Mrs. 2LZ does it on occasion from a start but only after it's sat for days at a time. Q and the RX3 have done it also. Q, not so much. I put in some other oil (can't remember right now), it squealed and chattered a little, so I drained it out right away and put in the 15W-40. Problem solved.
Seems all three have done it after it's sat for a while. My X-Moto would jump and stall when I put it in gear after sitting for a few weeks or a month but once the clutch was broke loose, it was fine.

[pete]

most clutch chatter is from the fit up of the
plates fiber and/or steel on the clutch basket or hub..
poor machineing with tolances to big...
cold motor the oil is thicker so it helps stop/hide the chatter...

why some motors will do it & others don't... where the clutch was machined
in the production run as machines setting do change , cutters ware etc..
Ie... in a production run of 300 componets yer exspect the first units to
have a tighter tolance just after the machines had be set up than the last...
also how much care the guy setting the machines takes...

Maybe another possabiliy is the amount of lash in the gears between the crank
& clutch basket...

to much movement can cause the basket fingers to tooth...

My XT660 has a anti shudder ring in the clutch stack to stop chattering..

..



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[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by mtiberio

Why does the clutch on my TT250 feel so pathetic. Forget about fanning it or giving it any abuse, it just chatters and slips. Is this a result of building a 230cc motor around a clutch designed for a 125? Are there some decent japanese/honda clutch plates and springs that can beef it up? Is the basket strong?

Just to continue this rant, the transmission doesn't shift as cleanly as a japanese transmission would. Should I just STFU and live with my bargain chinese ride?

Well don't feel lonely on the shifting issue. Me and my buddies couldn't stand Japanese transmissions. Of course, we were comparing them to Sturmey-Archer (Norton), Burman (Ariel and AJS/Matchless), and Velocette. BSA and Triumph were about as bad as the Japanese ones. A longer shift lever helps quite a bit. Also, it should get better the more miles you put on the bike.