Rebel T3 200cc Problems

[mizke]

looks awsome but i would shorten the bolts to draw it up closer to the swing arm..

if you do a chassis skid plate do it to where it bolts right to the frame and not down lower under the frame..

also you could make kits and sell them, i know id be interested in a chassis skid plate and maybe the control arm skid plates..

[FosterVS]

Originally Posted by mizke

looks awsome but i would shorten the bolts to draw it up closer to the swing arm..

if you do a chassis skid plate do it to where it bolts right to the frame and not down lower under the frame..

also you could make kits and sell them, i know id be interested in a chassis skid plate and maybe the control arm skid plates..

Can't draw it up closer, I had to actually drop the front down another 1/2 inch, as the chain was rubbing. And I don't want to cut it out where the chain is to get it closer, kind of defeats the purpose.

But I took it out on some heavy trails, with a lot of branches, roots, etc. today and nothing contacted it, so it should be OK. It isn't as thick a gauge as I wanted to use, but it was a piece I already had.

I already have the one for the chassis drawn out, just have to cut it out. It will bolt right to the bottom of the frame, with u-bolts.

Once I get them all done, and I'm happy with them, I will check with my buddy at local sheet-metal shop, and see what it will cost to get them fabricated. Maybe sell a few on eBay.

[Weldangrind]

Love it!

How did you roll the aluminum?

[mizke]

sweet, just do some out of a light weight metal does not have to be diamond plate. just something simple and cut a hole where the oil drain plug goes.

i would deff buy one, so keep me posted

[FosterVS]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

Love it!
How did you roll the aluminum?

Isn't rolled, has two 45 deg. bends. The extenders are 1 1/2" long aluminum tubes I cut from some stock I had, and I had to pick up some longer metric bolts from my local Home Depot. I had to tap the threads where the original bolts went, as the threads were buggered. Another good idea to have in your toolkit if you own a Chinese bike... metric taps and dies.

One thing I should do is put a small bend up on the front of this plate, so it doesn't catch things, and a small cutout where the chain is at this bend.

[Weldangrind]

How did you make the bends? Did you use a brake? Did you need heat? Would you recommend thicker checker plate? I gotta build one like that.

[mizke]

what would you want for a frame skid pad and control arm skid pads ?

[FosterVS]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

How did you make the bends? Did you use a brake? Did you need heat? Would you recommend thicker checker plate? I gotta build one like that.

Nah, I just used a vice and a hammer. Aluminum is great stuff to work with, but bends more than 45 deg. can be tricky as you might break the aluminum. You can do a lot with a vice, a hammer, a nice round piece of wood for shaping, etc. Also a hacksaw, and a jigsaw with a metal blade for making long cuts. Not the greatest, but it works.

Yeah, thicker diamond/checker plate would be better, little tougher to work with.

[FosterVS]

Originally Posted by mizke

what would you want for a frame skid pad and control arm skid pads ?

Hehe, well no idea at this point. Likely little more than it costs to fabricate them, don't plan on making a profit. Have a buddy that is top guy at a local sheet metal place, they do a ton of stuff with this diamond plate.

[mizke]

well you could make some profit if you were to make say 5 or so sets of frame skid plates, and control arm skid plates.. then list them in the for sale section..

how heavy is diamond plate ?

[FosterVS]

Well, weld for bracket that gas tank is mounted to broke loose. Fabricated some angle-aluminum into a U, bolted it to top of frame, and bolted front of tank to that. What a stupid setup, tinyass little bracket with a crappy weld.

Now that I have the front plastic off, been trying to figure out what is vibrating like hell all the time. The exhaust pipe was touching the frame, which explains part of it. Also, the rear brake pedal, where it touchs the adjuster bolt, was the culprit as well. Gotta put some kind of rubber cap on that bolt...

Next step is getting this quad, and my dirtbike, registered and insured. Damn insurance company wants RIV documents, which GIO doesn't supply. They got the NVIS and COOV documents, haven't heard back. Think I will try another insurance company.

EDITED TO ADD:
Rear wheels - the splines in the hubs must be bigger than the splines on the driveshaft, cause the wheels are getting wobbly as hell. And they should have put more cross-drilled holes for the cotter pin, cause I don't think I can tighten it enough to make it to the next hole...grr...

[mizke]

i cleaned up about 50% of my rear wheels slop with washers put enough on there to bring the castle bolt far enough out that the codder pin is actually useful..

btw good luck with the vibration noise, mine does that and i have spent off and on 2 years trying to track it down.. everything is bolted tight, body mounts are tight, cant for the life of figure it out.. so if you do lemme know please and i will be your bestest friend.. its already bad enough to see the looks people give for having a china quad, but when they see it run and can hear this loud vibration sound like a warp drive is coming or something its just embarrassing..

[flexxxycj]

Old topic I was reading up on... I have 2 of these... the worst vibration on my atvs seems to come from the flap cover on the locking gas tank.open it ,hold it and rev the engine... bet the vibration rattle is gone.... I just put a adhesive fabric round stick on (the kind you put on the bottom of a dining chair leg) on the tank where it would touch and no more bad vibes...