95C1500's 2015 Hawk 250 Thread - Page 6

Merlin · 11-15-2016, 12:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

I'd like to see a picture of that.

Ill post one tomorrow.

letsride · 11-15-2016, 01:59 PM

95C,
Where did you order that Main Jet assortment from?

Merlin · 11-15-2016, 03:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

I'd like to see a picture of that.

Ok here's four pictures. The inserts the bolts go into pulled out of there holes a little when I bolted on the sprocket. Is cush or not is cush that is the question?

Weldangrind · 11-16-2016, 11:32 AM

I've never seen a setup quite like that. Are the bolts original, or have they been replaced? Perhaps they're a little too long, which would explain the lifting when the bolts are tightened.

If you were to lock a pair of Vise Grips onto a bolt, can you wiggle it to see if there is a rubber bushing behind it?

Merlin · 11-16-2016, 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

I've never seen a setup quite like that. Are the bolts original, or have they been replaced? Perhaps they're a little too long, which would explain the lifting when the bolts are tightened.

If you were to lock a pair of Vise Grips onto a bolt, can you wiggle it to see if there is a rubber bushing behind it?

The bolts are original. The inserts the bolts go into where flush with the black flat part of the hub but the sprocket sits on a raised lip so when I tightened the bolts the inserts pulled up to the height of the sprocket. I tried the vice grips but I feel no wiggle. Ive never seen a set up like this.

PS this hub looks precisely the same as my old cush hub with the pins (ya old with less then 400 miles lol) but for the bolt inserts?

Weldangrind · 11-16-2016, 12:02 PM

Cush or not, it looks like the inserts should be shimmed so that they can bear the surface of the sprocket. It makes no sense (to me) to have a gap between the sprocket and the insert. I'd use some hardened washers of the correct thickness, although they wouldn't have to be hardened. Correct thickness is more important.

Merlin · 11-16-2016, 12:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

Cush or not, it looks like the inserts should be shimmed so that they can bear the surface of the sprocket. It makes no sense (to me) to have a gap between the sprocket and the insert. I'd use some hardened washers of the correct thickness, although they wouldn't have to be hardened. Correct thickness is more important.

There is no gap now as the inserts pulled to the base of the sprocket. Are you saying I should push the inserts all the way back into the hub? The back side of my sprocket has a grove machined into it for the pins to lock into for when you bolt the pins to the sprocket. The inserts touch the back side of the sprocket but with shims or not there will be that machined grove. Should I get a new sprocket with a flat un-machined back side? If so do you have any ideas where I could get a 46 tooth one for a Bashan?

Weldangrind · 11-17-2016, 11:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Merlin

There is no gap now as the inserts pulled to the base of the sprocket. Are you saying I should push the inserts all the way back into the hub? The back side of my sprocket has a grove machined into it for the pins to lock into for when you bolt the pins to the sprocket. The inserts touch the back side of the sprocket but with shims or not there will be that machined grove. Should I get a new sprocket with a flat un-machined back side? If so do you have any ideas where I could get a 46 tooth one for a Bashan?

Since the back of the sprocket is machined to accept the inserts, I'd say leave it alone.

What is the ID and the bolt circle of the existing sprocket?

Merlin · 11-17-2016, 11:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

Since the back of the sprocket is machined to accept the inserts, I'd say leave it alone.

What is the ID and the bolt circle of the existing sprocket?

The back of the sprocket is machined with a grove for the pins from my other wheel not the inserts. There will be a gap where the insert meets the sprocket. The machined groove is for holding the pins to stop them from turning when tightened. The inserts just sit on the grove not in it.

Weldangrind · 11-17-2016, 11:46 AM

It's tough for me to visualize it perfectly, so shim it if you feel it is worthwhile. If you can tap the inserts in without too much effort and you can measure the resulting space between the sprocket and the inserts, a shim might be wise. Shims would help to spread the load outward, rather than all of the load being placed on the center surface. Do you have the rear sprocket ID and bolt circle measurements?

Merlin · 11-17-2016, 05:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

It's tough for me to visualize it perfectly, so shim it if you feel it is worthwhile. If you can tap the inserts in without too much effort and you can measure the resulting space between the sprocket and the inserts, a shim might be wise. Shims would help to spread the load outward, rather than all of the load being placed on the center surface. Do you have the rear sprocket ID and bolt circle measurements?

Ya 58mm ID and 90mm bolt circle measurement. I think I need a 45 tooth sprocket. I could use a little better top end speed but dont want to over do it. I would like to be able to cruise at 65 mph with out over reving the engine. I think I need this sprocket its the same one used for the Hawk:
https://www.amazon.com/JT-Sprockets-...eywords=JTR+45

**JerryHawk250** · 11-17-2016, 05:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Merlin

Ya 58mm ID and 90mm bolt circle measurement. I think I need a 45 tooth sprocket. I could use a little better top end speed but dont want to over do it. I would like to be able to cruise at 65 mph with out over reving the engine. I think I need this sprocket its the same one used for the Hawk:
https://www.amazon.com/JT-Sprockets-...eywords=JTR+45

What sprocket you have on the front? 15t? If you have the 15t just go with a 43 or 40 on the rear. The 40 with the 15 on front will put you at about the same ratio and the 17/45 combo.

Weldangrind · 11-18-2016, 12:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Merlin

Ya 58mm ID and 90mm bolt circle measurement. I think I need a 45 tooth sprocket. I could use a little better top end speed but dont want to over do it. I would like to be able to cruise at 65 mph with out over reving the engine. I think I need this sprocket its the same one used for the Hawk:
https://www.amazon.com/JT-Sprockets-...eywords=JTR+45

I also think that would be the correct sprocket. Here's the JT page: http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/sprocket/JTR269

Merlin · 11-18-2016, 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

I also think that would be the correct sprocket. Here's the JT page: http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/sprocket/JTR269

Thanks. Iam going to buy the chain and sprocket and that should finish my mods. I already have a tachometer, a new Mikuni VM26, a foam air cleaner on the way and a new muffler that should be delivered today. Almost forgot the new set of alloy wheels. Thanks again.

95C1500 · 11-18-2016, 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by letsride

95C,
Where did you order that Main Jet assortment from?

Amazon. Go to www.hawk250.com and find the link they posted for the jets and order them from Amazon 👍🏼

11-16-2016, 11:32 AM	#79
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	I've never seen a setup quite like that. Are the bolts original, or have they been replaced? Perhaps they're a little too long, which would explain the lifting when the bolts are tightened. If you were to lock a pair of Vise Grips onto a bolt, can you wiggle it to see if there is a rubber bushing behind it? __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

11-16-2016, 12:02 PM	#81
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	Cush or not, it looks like the inserts should be shimmed so that they can bear the surface of the sprocket. It makes no sense (to me) to have a gap between the sprocket and the insert. I'd use some hardened washers of the correct thickness, although they wouldn't have to be hardened. Correct thickness is more important. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

11-17-2016, 11:46 AM	#85
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	It's tough for me to visualize it perfectly, so shim it if you feel it is worthwhile. If you can tap the inserts in without too much effort and you can measure the resulting space between the sprocket and the inserts, a shim might be wise. Shims would help to spread the load outward, rather than all of the load being placed on the center surface. Do you have the rear sprocket ID and bolt circle measurements? __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

11-15-2016, 01:59 PM	#77
letsride Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Leesville SC Posts: 832	95C, Where did you order that Main Jet assortment from?
	0