Battery not charging / Testing results

Meech86 · 10-08-2020, 10:51 PM

Hello everyone,

The more I dive into my recent purchase of my LF200GY-2, the more I can see what issues it has, to me it's nothing major since I only paid 50$ for the bike.

I connected my battery which only has 3 volts remaining on it and ran the bike to see what kind of voltage I would get. I received a reading of 4 to 5 volts and when I'd rev the motor high up it would reach 7 Volts.

I finally understand why the lights are not working. The circuit for the lights isn't wired completely, tail light and front turn signals weren't hooked up so that would explain why the headlight did not come on. (incomplete circuit)

For the rectifier and Stator tests,

I ran a Continuity test on my rectifier, I have a 5 pin rectifier and the colors are as follows according to a search. I inserted my negative/black lead into the red wire pin and went around to each pin with my red/positive lead and received the following readings.

Green - Ground = .992
Yellow - AC Input = .545
Pink - AC Input = .549
Black - Key Switch = 0
Red - DC+ Output

I ran an OHMS test for the Stator at the pins, I'm uncertain if I did correctly but I inserted my negative (black) lead into the Green/White wire nd went around to each pin and received these results.

Green/White to Blue/White = 135.5 OHMS
Green/White to Pink = Jumps from 4.0 to 7.0 OHMS
Green/White to Yellow = .700 to 1.1100 OHMS
Green/White to Black/Red = 5.00 to 6.15 OHMS

From these tests, I would assume that the rectifier is still fine but I need to replace the Stator. If I didn't run the Stator test correctly please let me know as I have a hard time finding Stator tests with the same coloured pins as I have.

When I picked the bike up it was already bare frame and there were two cover bolts removed from the stator side as well as a bunch of wires added here and there. This is another sign that the stator might be done.

Please let me know what you guys think and If I ran my tests correctly.

Thank you,

Mitch

Emerikol · 10-08-2020, 11:45 PM

Mitch, first things first, get a good battery on the bike and then start running down electrical issues. If the battery wasn't disconnected when you were doing your tests, it's possible you got some wonky readings. I can't speak to stator testing by itself, as I haven't ever had to run down issues on one yet. Pickup coils are a different story all together.

After you have a fully charged battery on the bike, you can do your idle/high rpm voltage tests and then decide what else needs to be addressed. Let us know if you need any specific guidance. This forum is chocked full of knowledgeable members willing to share ideas.

Meech86 · 10-08-2020, 11:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Emerikol

Mitch, first things first, get a good battery on the bike and then start running down electrical issues. If the battery wasn't disconnected when you were doing your tests, it's possible you got some wonky readings. I can't speak to stator testing by itself, as I haven't ever had to run down issues on one yet. Pickup coils are a different story all together.

After you have a fully charged battery on the bike, you can do your idle/high rpm voltage tests and then decide what else needs to be addressed. Let us know if you need any specific guidance. This forum is chocked full of knowledgeable members willing to share ideas.

Hello Emerikol,

The battery was disconnected while running the tests for the rectifier and the stator. I did the tests at the connector themselves with the battery removed.

I had the battery connected while I ran the first test which was to see how many volts I'm getting at the terminals while the bike is running. I believe I should see over 12 volts as the stator and rectifier should be pushing out 12 above volts. After I noticed I was only getting 7 volts total, it made me go towards the stator and rectifier.

Bruces · 10-09-2020, 07:37 AM

Are you certain your bike isn’t a 6 volt model ?

**JerryHawk250** · 10-09-2020, 07:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bruces

Are you certain your bike isn’t a 6 volt model ?

You beat me to it. lol

Meech86 · 10-09-2020, 07:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bruces

Are you certain your bike isn’t a 6 volt model ?

Quote:

Originally Posted by JerryHawk250

You beat me to it. lol

This has definitely crossed my mind, most places that I look says these bikes are 12 volts. How would I be able to find that information as to what voltage it should be? The battery has no stamp on it of what voltage it is.

Thanks guys

**JerryHawk250** · 10-09-2020, 07:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Meech86

This has definitely crossed my mind, most places that I look says these bikes are 12 volts. How would I be able to find that information as to what voltage it should be? The battery has no stamp on it of what voltage it is.

Thanks guys

A 6 volt battery will only have 3 cells. Usually tall and narrow. 12 volt has 6 cells and will be wide.

Meech86 · 10-09-2020, 08:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JerryHawk250

A 6 volt battery will only have 3 cells. Usually tall and narrow. 12 volt has 6 cells and will be wide.

Hi Jerry,

Thank you for the quick response. The battery that came with the bike has 6 cells on it. I also noticed that the person who owned it before installed a relay on the bike for LED turn signals and the relay is stamped with 12.8V on it.

Bruces · 10-09-2020, 08:13 AM

Try to find some other original electrical components and look for a 6v on them .Your test results bring up the possibility that your bike is 6volt ,it might be 12volt but anything is possible .

**JerryHawk250** · 10-09-2020, 08:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Meech86

Hi Jerry,

Thank you for the quick response. The battery that came with the bike has 6 cells on it. I also noticed that the person who owned it before installed a relay on the bike for LED turn signals and the relay is stamped with 12.8V on it.

It could still be possible it's a 6 volt system and the previous owner stuck a 12 volt battery on there not knowing it is 6 volts. Hopefully someone on here with better knowledge on the electrical position on this bike will chime in. Member Humanbeing will be the guy to help.

Meech86 · 10-09-2020, 08:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bruces

Try to find some other original electrical components and look for a 6v on them .Your test results bring up the possibility that your bike is 6volt ,it might be 12volt but anything is possible .

I will take a look, I wonder if the starter would be stamped with voltage capacity.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JerryHawk250

It could still be possible it's a 6 volt system and the previous owner stuck a 12 volt battery on there not knowing it is 6 volts. Hopefully someone on here with better knowledge on the electrical position on this bike will chime in. Member Humanbeing will be the guy to help.

This is also true! I just find my stator readings so sporadic, so not sure if I did the test correctly also lol

**cheesy** · 10-09-2020, 08:26 AM

6volt was my thought, too.

Meech86 · 10-09-2020, 08:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cheesy

6volt was my thought, too.

I just verified and the starter relay is stamped as 12V and also has the original part number stamped on it as well.

Bruces · 10-09-2020, 08:40 AM

Well honestly that’s good news as 6 volt lighting sucks on a bike .
Let the fun begin ,

Meech86 · 10-09-2020, 08:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bruces

Well honestly that’s good news as 6 volt lighting sucks on a bike .
Let the fun begin ,

haha I could just imagine. So now it's just figuring out if I ran the stator test correctly.

10-08-2020, 10:51 PM	#1
Meech86 Join Date: Oct 2020 Location: Ottawa, Ontario Posts: 54	Battery not charging / Testing results Hello everyone, The more I dive into my recent purchase of my LF200GY-2, the more I can see what issues it has, to me it's nothing major since I only paid 50$ for the bike. I connected my battery which only has 3 volts remaining on it and ran the bike to see what kind of voltage I would get. I received a reading of 4 to 5 volts and when I'd rev the motor high up it would reach 7 Volts. I finally understand why the lights are not working. The circuit for the lights isn't wired completely, tail light and front turn signals weren't hooked up so that would explain why the headlight did not come on. (incomplete circuit) For the rectifier and Stator tests, I ran a Continuity test on my rectifier, I have a 5 pin rectifier and the colors are as follows according to a search. I inserted my negative/black lead into the red wire pin and went around to each pin with my red/positive lead and received the following readings. Green - Ground = .992 Yellow - AC Input = .545 Pink - AC Input = .549 Black - Key Switch = 0 Red - DC+ Output I ran an OHMS test for the Stator at the pins, I'm uncertain if I did correctly but I inserted my negative (black) lead into the Green/White wire nd went around to each pin and received these results. Green/White to Blue/White = 135.5 OHMS Green/White to Pink = Jumps from 4.0 to 7.0 OHMS Green/White to Yellow = .700 to 1.1100 OHMS Green/White to Black/Red = 5.00 to 6.15 OHMS From these tests, I would assume that the rectifier is still fine but I need to replace the Stator. If I didn't run the Stator test correctly please let me know as I have a hard time finding Stator tests with the same coloured pins as I have. When I picked the bike up it was already bare frame and there were two cover bolts removed from the stator side as well as a bunch of wires added here and there. This is another sign that the stator might be done. Please let me know what you guys think and If I ran my tests correctly. Thank you, Mitch Last edited by Meech86; 10-09-2020 at 08:05 AM.
	1

10-08-2020, 11:45 PM	#2
Emerikol Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Carrollton, GA Posts: 1,465	Mitch, first things first, get a good battery on the bike and then start running down electrical issues. If the battery wasn't disconnected when you were doing your tests, it's possible you got some wonky readings. I can't speak to stator testing by itself, as I haven't ever had to run down issues on one yet. Pickup coils are a different story all together. After you have a fully charged battery on the bike, you can do your idle/high rpm voltage tests and then decide what else needs to be addressed. Let us know if you need any specific guidance. This forum is chocked full of knowledgeable members willing to share ideas. __________________ First Rule of Aviation: -Never Pass Up The Opportunity to Pee I was struggling to get my wife's attention; I sat down on the couch and looked comfortable. That did the trick! My wife says I only have two faults. I don't listen and something else... If at first you don't succeed, try doing it the way I told you to... The Stable: 2005 Yamaha V-Star 650 - SOLD 2015 Suzuki DR 650 2015 RPS Hawk 250 - SOLD 2016 Ural Gear Up
	1

10-09-2020, 08:26 AM	#12
cheesy Moderator Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Elburn, IL Posts: 5,821	6volt was my thought, too. __________________ Cheesy ______________________________________ 07 Hi Bird Enduro-Flown the Coop 07 Ural Gear Up 79 Honda CX500 77 VeloSolex 4600 V3 73 VeloSolex 3800 I'm making this up as I go.-Indiana Jones Telling me something 'is for my own good', is a fast way to a fat lip.-Me I don't even care about my own problems, why should I care about yours?-Quote on one of my favorite t-shirts
	1

10-09-2020, 07:37 AM	#4
Bruces Join Date: May 2018 Posts: 1,588	Are you certain your bike isn’t a 6 volt model ?
	1

10-09-2020, 08:13 AM	#9
Bruces Join Date: May 2018 Posts: 1,588	Try to find some other original electrical components and look for a 6v on them .Your test results bring up the possibility that your bike is 6volt ,it might be 12volt but anything is possible .
	0

10-09-2020, 08:40 AM	#14
Bruces Join Date: May 2018 Posts: 1,588	Well honestly that’s good news as 6 volt lighting sucks on a bike . Let the fun begin ,
	1