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Old 03-15-2018, 09:16 AM   #76
JerryHawk250   JerryHawk250 is offline
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APSCUSA has the complete engine for $499 with free shipping http://www.apscusa.com/Hawk-250-engine_p_660.html but notice it is on back order. Check with TXPowersports and see if they can get it. That way you will have spare parts from the old engine and a head you can practice porting on. This may be the less expensive way to go and will be plug and play.
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Old 03-15-2018, 09:19 AM   #77
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Regarding chain tension, I was of the opinion that CSC's 15mm spec was on the tight side, but I consider the manufacturer's manual as authoritative; they obviously know what they're talking about.

The difficult part is it's way too easy to over-tighten it if chasing that spec, especially given how much the swingarm moves. So, like all my bikes, I run it a little at the loose end.

I can tell when it gets too slack as the chain lash can pop the bike into neutral at low speeds.

I have actually let it get sufficiently slack to jump the rear sprocket going over a bump. How loose? Well not as much as you'd think, probably just a little over 2x the spec.

So it's difficult. At least for me.


 
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Old 03-15-2018, 11:11 AM   #78
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You actually have to adjust the chain to the listed spec when the bike is laden, like you need to be sitting on the bike when you adjust to spec. That's a big part (I assume) of why it was too tight.


 
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Old 03-15-2018, 11:40 AM   #79
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Or maybe this 6 speed

https://www.yoycart.com/Product/40634641602/


 
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Old 03-15-2018, 11:47 AM   #80
JerryHawk250   JerryHawk250 is offline
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Quote:
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That would be my choice of engine if I ever had to replace it.


Original Post on the engine http://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=18754&page=3
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Last edited by JerryHawk250; 03-15-2018 at 11:59 AM. Reason: added info on engine
 
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Old 03-15-2018, 12:08 PM   #81
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This is what I would love in one of these bikes.
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Old 03-15-2018, 12:59 PM   #82
Sullybiker   Sullybiker is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by franque View Post
You actually have to adjust the chain to the listed spec when the bike is laden, like you need to be sitting on the bike when you adjust to spec. That's a big part (I assume) of why it was too tight.
yes, on my Kawi there's not much difference between loaded and unloaded, on the 'Zong it's significant.


 
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Old 03-15-2018, 02:07 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sullybiker View Post
Regarding chain tension, I was of the opinion that CSC's 15mm spec was on the tight side, but I consider the manufacturer's manual as authoritative; they obviously know what they're talking about.

The difficult part is it's way too easy to over-tighten it if chasing that spec, especially given how much the swingarm moves. So, like all my bikes, I run it a little at the loose end.

I can tell when it gets too slack as the chain lash can pop the bike into neutral at low speeds.

I have actually let it get sufficiently slack to jump the rear sprocket going over a bump. How loose? Well not as much as you'd think, probably just a little over 2x the spec.

So it's difficult. At least for me.
Quote:
Originally Posted by franque View Post
You actually have to adjust the chain to the listed spec when the bike is laden, like you need to be sitting on the bike when you adjust to spec. That's a big part (I assume) of why it was too tight.
This this this this this this ^

I have found that with the bike unladen, on a stand - rear tire with no weight on it, the chain slack is actually around or a tiny bit more than 1 inch/25mm.

I will set my chain to that figure, then put the bike on the ground, lay over the seat with my head on the chain side, and while hanging upside down check the slack. This method is a pain in the ass acrobatics act, but it has worked well for me. If you can get somebody of similar size to sit on the bike it will make life a million times easier. Then, once you get it set, put the bike back up on a stand and unload that rear wheel and measure that slack figure and write it down somewhere. Now you can set the chain tension without having to do the "Inverted Mechanic" yoga pose.
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Old 03-15-2018, 06:20 PM   #84
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X3! a six speed, counter balanced motor? YES PLEASE!
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Old 03-15-2018, 09:59 PM   #85
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Great info guys, hopefully help future hawk owner. I’m not ready to give this engine up yet, I think I can still get more mileage out of her yet. RPS sent me a viper cover instead of hawk so they’re mailing me there last engine cover they have in stock. I bookmarked the 6 speed engine which looks awesome just don’t really have the funds right now. Unless I absolutely have to, wife’s ready to kill me she don’t get it Idle hands are the devils workshop!


 
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Old 03-15-2018, 10:53 PM   #86
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yea you could be at the bar chasing rabbits
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Old 03-15-2018, 11:07 PM   #87
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That counterbalancer one the 6spd may prove problematic for a Hawk. The TT250 frame is kicked out where the downtube splits to accomodate for a counter balancer, but the Hawk does not. You may be able to make it fit a Hawk, but that is a big unknown. If not, order up a tt250 frame to go with said motor and swap the hawk stuff over.
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Old 03-16-2018, 07:46 AM   #88
JerryHawk250   JerryHawk250 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Megadan View Post
That counterbalancer one the 6spd may prove problematic for a Hawk. The TT250 frame is kicked out where the downtube splits to accomodate for a counter balancer, but the Hawk does not. You may be able to make it fit a Hawk, but that is a big unknown. If not, order up a tt250 frame to go with said motor and swap the hawk stuff over.
I had looked into that before. The counter balance doesn't stick out as far as the TT250 engine does. I had found a drawing with all the dimensions for the mounting points. It would of cleared the frame. Just would had to make new motor mount plates at the front.
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Old 03-16-2018, 12:57 PM   #89
Megadan   Megadan is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JerryHawk250 View Post
I had looked into that before. The counter balance doesn't stick out as far as the TT250 engine does. I had found a drawing with all the dimensions for the mounting points. It would of cleared the frame. Just would had to make new motor mount plates at the front.
That is a good point. The balancer is definitely more tucked in. It wouldn't be much of a power increase stock for stock, but having an extra gear would make running shorter gearing for off-road possible while still retaining some on-road lower-rev highway capability.

If I blew up my Hawk engine I would probably try and make one of these work.
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Old 03-16-2018, 07:15 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Megadan View Post
This this this this this this ^

I have found that with the bike unladen, on a stand - rear tire with no weight on it, the chain slack is actually around or a tiny bit more than 1 inch/25mm.

I will set my chain to that figure, then put the bike on the ground, lay over the seat with my head on the chain side, and while hanging upside down check the slack. This method is a pain in the ass acrobatics act, but it has worked well for me. If you can get somebody of similar size to sit on the bike it will make life a million times easier. Then, once you get it set, put the bike back up on a stand and unload that rear wheel and measure that slack figure and write it down somewhere. Now you can set the chain tension without having to do the "Inverted Mechanic" yoga pose.
Ratchet strap Dan, ratchet strap.


 
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