Apollo 250cc Vacuum Fuel Pump?

TimTheDirtBikeGuy · 01-16-2018, 04:12 PM

Have this part and need to know where the lines go to and from... Is this a vacuum fuel pump? Noob here...

BlackBike · 01-17-2018, 12:35 AM

Air pump that pumps air into the cylinder to increase burn off of exhaust gas

Megadan · 01-17-2018, 01:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlackBike

Air pump that pumps air into the cylinder to increase burn off of exhaust gas

Whar he is trying to say is, emissions junk.

You can easily delete that system. Just need to make a block off plate for the cylinder head. On the right side of the head at the front where the port is located. Then delete and plug any air hose fittings necessary.

Or keep it if you have emissions inspections.

TimTheDirtBikeGuy · 01-17-2018, 10:20 AM

Just going to keep as a trail bike. Very appreciative of the response. Having issues with it cold cranking. 1-Hard to start cold. 2- will not idle 3-idle adjustment screw is ineffective (screwed all the way in and did nothing). After is warmed up it kick starts easy but even warmed up it still wont idle. Still have to fluctuate throttle to keep running. There's no muffler at all. Would back pressure loss be a factor in why it won't idle? Will get some pics after I delete the air flow inlet on the head. Also theres a hose on the "intake manifold." Just block that off too?

**JerryHawk250** · 01-17-2018, 10:37 AM

Have you tried turning in the idle screw while giving it some throttle? It may be hitting the side of the slide. Just a thought. Hard cold starts are signs of lean idle mixture. Try adjusting the idle mixture by turning it out to richen the mixture. Also raising the needle a notch will help.

TimTheDirtBikeGuy · 01-17-2018, 11:02 AM

I have taken the carb off and dismantled it and gave it a thorough cleaning. Never done a pz30 like this one but all in all they aren't really different from a pz20. I ordered a new one just in case this one just isn't going to do anymore. Time will tell.

BlackBike · 01-17-2018, 02:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Megadan

Whar he is trying to say is, emissions junk.

You can easily delete that system. Just need to make a block off plate for the cylinder head. On the right side of the head at the front where the port is located. Then delete and plug any air hose fittings necessary.

Or keep it if you have emissions inspections.

Easy enough to cut a little plate with screw holes on each side. What kind of material would you use as a gasket? Would high temp rtv work or should use some kind of asbestos like type material?

BlackBike · 01-17-2018, 02:14 PM

Is this an old bike? Check those valve gaps and of course the basics oil, plug, and wires. Carberator was a good start and pop on cheap inline fuel filter too. You will have it singing in no time.

TimTheDirtBikeGuy · 01-17-2018, 06:21 PM

Its a 2013 that looks like it was not well taken care of to be honest. I dont have any valve shims... What's the gaps supposed to be? I was skeptical at first but once I got it to fire over the casing didnt have any "knocking" and the throttle was very responsive. After completely retiming it of course. It was a few teeth off. I thought for sure it was toast. Like maybe a bent valve or something but it seems to have life. I guess my process of elimination at this point consists of getting new carb on, no oil leaks and oil does need to be changed but its not gray so also a plus, then check valve lash and if someone knows any compression specs that would help.

david3921 · 01-17-2018, 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlackBike

Easy enough to cut a little plate with screw holes on each side. What kind of material would you use as a gasket? Would high temp rtv work or should use some kind of asbestos like type material?

I remember just using the plate and some of that green gasket material you can buy from an auto store.

humanbeing · 01-18-2018, 04:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TimTheDirtBikeGuy

... I dont have any valve shims... What's the gaps supposed to be? ...

Chonda ohc 223 (65.5*66.2) are based from JDM MD33E

http://blog.inmycab.com/xr200r-matome/761/ which CRF230 (ME09E) materials are very similar. Honda said IN/Ex is 0.1mm

(I'm a cheapskate that won't paid for the proper repair manual when infos readily available in 'net. MD33E https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2b...ew?usp=sharing -that doc was from a Japanese Honda dealer | ME09E http://eucurtomoto.com.br/download_a...CRF%20230F.pdf -thx to kind Brazilian / Better than nothing owner's manual http://owners.honda.com/assets/OWNER...07_CRF230f.pdf )

Megadan · 01-18-2018, 07:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlackBike

What kind of material would you use as a gasket? Would high temp rtv work or should use some kind of asbestos like type material?

I wouldn't use RTV. Some thin copper sheet (1mm) cut to shape and annealed would work fine. You can also buy sheets of high temp exhaust gasket material from companies like Mr. Gasket.

My personal favorite. It's kind of thick, and a little harder to cut because of it's thin steel core, but it's also forgiving to surface imperfections. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/p...RoCR_YQAvD_BwE

01-17-2018, 12:35 AM	#2
BlackBike Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: George West, Texas Posts: 4,097	Air pump that pumps air into the cylinder to increase burn off of exhaust gas __________________ ***************************************** 2015 Bashan"Blaze" BS250GY-31 (DB-07K-250) GONE 2017 Suzuki V Strom 650 XT "We are all born ignorant, but one must work hard to remain stupid." ~Benjamin Franklin~
	1

01-17-2018, 10:37 AM	#5
JerryHawk250 Moderator Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Houma, La. Posts: 11,545	Have you tried turning in the idle screw while giving it some throttle? It may be hitting the side of the slide. Just a thought. Hard cold starts are signs of lean idle mixture. Try adjusting the idle mixture by turning it out to richen the mixture. Also raising the needle a notch will help. __________________ 2023 Lifan Lycan 250 Chopper 2023 Venom Evader 2022 Lifan KPX250 2020 Kawasaki Vulcan S 2004 Honda ST 1300 2016 Black Hawk 250 (sold) Keihin PE30 carb,125 main,38 slow.Pod filter,ported & decked head 10:1 CR,Direct Ignition Coil,15/40Sprockets,NGK DPR8EIX-9,De-Cat,Dual Oil Cooler,Digital Cluster 2016 Cazador180 XL 2014 Coolster150 JerryHawk250.com My YouTube Channel
	0

01-17-2018, 02:14 PM	#8
BlackBike Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: George West, Texas Posts: 4,097	Is this an old bike? Check those valve gaps and of course the basics oil, plug, and wires. Carberator was a good start and pop on cheap inline fuel filter too. You will have it singing in no time. __________________ ***************************************** 2015 Bashan"Blaze" BS250GY-31 (DB-07K-250) GONE 2017 Suzuki V Strom 650 XT "We are all born ignorant, but one must work hard to remain stupid." ~Benjamin Franklin~
	0

01-17-2018, 10:20 AM	#4
TimTheDirtBikeGuy Join Date: Jan 2018 Location: Southeast Texas Posts: 6	Just going to keep as a trail bike. Very appreciative of the response. Having issues with it cold cranking. 1-Hard to start cold. 2- will not idle 3-idle adjustment screw is ineffective (screwed all the way in and did nothing). After is warmed up it kick starts easy but even warmed up it still wont idle. Still have to fluctuate throttle to keep running. There's no muffler at all. Would back pressure loss be a factor in why it won't idle? Will get some pics after I delete the air flow inlet on the head. Also theres a hose on the "intake manifold." Just block that off too?
	0

01-17-2018, 11:02 AM	#6
TimTheDirtBikeGuy Join Date: Jan 2018 Location: Southeast Texas Posts: 6	I have taken the carb off and dismantled it and gave it a thorough cleaning. Never done a pz30 like this one but all in all they aren't really different from a pz20. I ordered a new one just in case this one just isn't going to do anymore. Time will tell.
	1

01-17-2018, 06:21 PM	#9
TimTheDirtBikeGuy Join Date: Jan 2018 Location: Southeast Texas Posts: 6	Its a 2013 that looks like it was not well taken care of to be honest. I dont have any valve shims... What's the gaps supposed to be? I was skeptical at first but once I got it to fire over the casing didnt have any "knocking" and the throttle was very responsive. After completely retiming it of course. It was a few teeth off. I thought for sure it was toast. Like maybe a bent valve or something but it seems to have life. I guess my process of elimination at this point consists of getting new carb on, no oil leaks and oil does need to be changed but its not gray so also a plus, then check valve lash and if someone knows any compression specs that would help.
	0