Taotao Rhino, what problems have you had? - Page 3

Computek · 05-08-2018, 09:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2LZ

Well, I experienced my very first, completely unacceptable failure with my Rhino.
I found the taillight hanging by the wires.
I may have to have a couple tonight to deal with the depression and utter frustration.

The new to me Rhino has a much smaller led taillight.

Paul2 · 05-09-2018, 08:25 AM

ohhhhh You hit a soft spot,,
I would definitely call them! I spoke to manny was his name.

The issue with mine was it would start and idle, but the second it was put in gear and given throttle, bang,, it would choke out. So I called and followed their instructions of what to adjust, in what sequence, and with no luck, and then it was a "must be bad gas" excuse line, but they sooner realized it was an internal carb component and nothing external was going to correct it, and might I add I paid extra to have them prep and check everything? and it happened right out of the box.
Now if it was a normal fix adjustment I would have caught it, and I get its not worth the time, but I got pissed with every other "adjustment" then a gallon of locktite on everything that moves, then modifications, and the list goes on.....
Now there are a few schools of thought and keep in mind I'm 30+ year turbine machinist so tools and the such are like breathing,,
With my issue why didn't I just pick up my sockets and drivers and remove the carb, then drill out the set screws that were installed (so they could beat the EPA and get the units in the USA instead of spec-ing out a carb compliant model for another $12), then use my carb needle cleaner kit on the float system to see If there's potentially some debris stuck in a needle valve or torqued float valve in the bowl housing, then rebuild then reinstall and tune with another 2hrs out of my day,,ya,,NO!!!
CALL THEM! you paid for a new functioning unit, and yes I get that compared to the cost of a fully R&D/engineered/time tested unit ours are pretty much free but that doesn't mean they're off the hook for a bit of responsibility, and yes I again understand we love to tinker and fix and modify and so on...but fact remains, you paid for a functioning new unit and when they told you the price, you paid the whole amount and they got all of it, now they need to give you at the least a fully functioning unit.
I'll step off my soapbox now,,, and I hope I put some fire under your keister to hold them to their end of the bargain!
PS- I have 3 with no regrets and torture mine to no end!

2LZ · 05-09-2018, 10:17 AM

These things sit for a long time in containers and warehouses before being sold so many times, right out of the box, the pilot jets are clogged. Hence, start, idle, no go.

The stock carbs are garbage and I'm not sure about anywhere else other than CA but not only are the bowl screws the little snap-off bastards but they red lock-tited the slide nut so I had to use a prop torch and channel locks to get the damn thing off so I could get the cable out to replace the whole mess.

Switching to a Mikuni VM26 for about 30.00 cures all ills and are easily jettable. Worth the upgrade. It will also eliminate that thumb choke that always comes loose so the little bolt hits the ground.

Manny has a long history and reputation of being a mega-sheister here. After what he did to Azhule, buyer beware.

Darth Racer · 05-09-2018, 06:05 PM

I second what 2LZ stated. Great upgrade for the money.... My Rhino pepped right up with it installed.

Computek · 05-09-2018, 09:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paul2

ohhhhh You hit a soft spot,,
I would definitely call them! I spoke to manny was his name.

The issue with mine was it would start and idle, but the second it was put in gear and given throttle, bang,, it would choke out. So I called and followed their instructions of what to adjust, in what sequence, and with no luck, and then it was a "must be bad gas" excuse line, but they sooner realized it was an internal carb component and nothing external was going to correct it, and might I add I paid extra to have them prep and check everything? and it happened right out of the box.
Now if it was a normal fix adjustment I would have caught it, and I get its not worth the time, but I got pissed with every other "adjustment" then a gallon of locktite on everything that moves, then modifications, and the list goes on.....
Now there are a few schools of thought and keep in mind I'm 30+ year turbine machinist so tools and the such are like breathing,,
With my issue why didn't I just pick up my sockets and drivers and remove the carb, then drill out the set screws that were installed (so they could beat the EPA and get the units in the USA instead of spec-ing out a carb compliant model for another $12), then use my carb needle cleaner kit on the float system to see If there's potentially some debris stuck in a needle valve or torqued float valve in the bowl housing, then rebuild then reinstall and tune with another 2hrs out of my day,,ya,,NO!!!
CALL THEM! you paid for a new functioning unit, and yes I get that compared to the cost of a fully R&D/engineered/time tested unit ours are pretty much free but that doesn't mean they're off the hook for a bit of responsibility, and yes I again understand we love to tinker and fix and modify and so on...but fact remains, you paid for a functioning new unit and when they told you the price, you paid the whole amount and they got all of it, now they need to give you at the least a fully functioning unit.
I'll step off my soapbox now,,, and I hope I put some fire under your keister to hold them to their end of the bargain!
PS- I have 3 with no regrets and torture mine to no end!

I will give TXPower a call tomorrow. Also going to search up that VM26 and some jets. In case it gets sked I did put pure gas (non ethanol) fresh with a shot of Stabil and a shot of MMO so the valves get a bit of lube for break in. I hope to have unit number two assembled this weekend.

Computek · 05-13-2018, 12:21 PM

Adding insult to injury on the Rhino carburetors. The second unit has a stuck slide. There is some kind of glue substance in the bore. I had a hell of a time getting the slide out. Going to see if acetone will get it out and then WD-40 the slide and see if it frees up. Glad I did not try to start this one prior to checking operation!!

Mudflap · 05-21-2018, 11:27 AM

Got the new axle from Partskit but looks like the bearings fell out of the damaged box. They evidently just tossed the axle and bearings in a box with no packing to keep it from bouncing around and poking holes in the box.

Also I noticed that the right side hub splines are slowly being damaged by being pushed too far onto the axle. I'll make a support tube to slip over the axle like I did on the ATA250D.

PANDEMIC · 05-21-2018, 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mudflap

Got the new axle from Partskit but looks like the bearings fell out of the damaged box. They evidently just tossed the axle and bearings in a box with no packing to keep it from bouncing around and poking holes in the box.

Also I noticed that the right side hub splines are slowly being damaged by being pushed too far onto the axle. I'll make a support tube to slip over the axle like I did on the ATA250D.

any pics of the fix for future use?

Computek · 05-21-2018, 04:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Computek

Adding insult to injury on the Rhino carburetors. The second unit has a stuck slide. There is some kind of glue substance in the bore. I had a hell of a time getting the slide out. Going to see if acetone will get it out and then WD-40 the slide and see if it frees up. Glad I did not try to start this one prior to checking operation!!

Acetone cleaned the carb bore and slide perfectly and this second unit runs great. It flies, starts right up. I agree with everyone on the Rhino gearing. Guess I am going to have to shell out the bucks to WGS for the chain and sprockets. I wish Tao Motor would put those 11-37 on from the factory.

Mudflap · 05-24-2018, 08:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PANDEMIC

any pics of the fix for future use?

No pics handy. I just cut a piece of 1" galvanized or black iron pipe to fit over the right hand side of the axle. It butts up against the axle nuts on the inside.

Darth Racer · 05-24-2018, 05:33 PM

I just used a piece of 1" conduit pipe. Mudflap made me do it

No problems and a cheap easy mod to do.

Mudflap · 08-26-2018, 11:15 AM

Finally got around to checking gas mileage on my Rhino, 57 mpg. Rode from camp at 1600 feet to fire lookout at 6000 feet and back on gravel forest service roads with lots of ups and downs. Nearly all at 15 to 20 mph in second and third gear.

Mudflap · 08-29-2018, 08:12 AM

About 1/4 mile into a planned very long ride I stopped to look out over the lake and noticed a hot oil smell. Looked down to see my boot dripping with oil. One of the oil cooler lines had pulled off the barbed fitting on the valve cover pumping out about a pint of oil. Rode back to camp, reattached the hose, topped up the oil, and continued the ride. Now my boot definitely won't rust.

Paul2 · 08-29-2018, 08:32 AM

If you have a witness you can sue the boot company for mental anguish, sorry I'm from MA.

2LZ · 08-29-2018, 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mudflap

About 1/4 mile into a planned very long ride I stopped to look out over the lake and noticed a hot oil smell. Looked down to see my boot dripping with oil. One of the oil cooler lines had pulled off the barbed fitting on the valve cover pumping out about a pint of oil. Rode back to camp, reattached the hose, topped up the oil, and continued the ride. Now my boot definitely won't rust.

I have an oil cooler setup I "just had to have" because I got it for half price, that still resides on the shelf in it's original box.

05-09-2018, 10:17 AM	#33
2LZ Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Volcano, Ca Posts: 7,065	These things sit for a long time in containers and warehouses before being sold so many times, right out of the box, the pilot jets are clogged. Hence, start, idle, no go. The stock carbs are garbage and I'm not sure about anywhere else other than CA but not only are the bowl screws the little snap-off bastards but they red lock-tited the slide nut so I had to use a prop torch and channel locks to get the damn thing off so I could get the cable out to replace the whole mess. Switching to a Mikuni VM26 for about 30.00 cures all ills and are easily jettable. Worth the upgrade. It will also eliminate that thumb choke that always comes loose so the little bolt hits the ground. Manny has a long history and reputation of being a mega-sheister here. After what he did to Azhule, buyer beware. __________________ "Light a fire for a man, and you heat him for a day. Light a man on fire, and you heat him for the rest of his life." 2007 Suzuki DRZ400S (SM convert) 2009 Q Link XP 200 1967 BSA B25 250cc Starfire 2022 Royal Enfield Interceptor 650 2023 Royal Enfield Scram 411 1948 Royal Enfield Model G 350
	2

05-09-2018, 08:25 AM	#32
Paul2 Join Date: Jun 2017 Posts: 81	ohhhhh You hit a soft spot,, I would definitely call them! I spoke to manny was his name. The issue with mine was it would start and idle, but the second it was put in gear and given throttle, bang,, it would choke out. So I called and followed their instructions of what to adjust, in what sequence, and with no luck, and then it was a "must be bad gas" excuse line, but they sooner realized it was an internal carb component and nothing external was going to correct it, and might I add I paid extra to have them prep and check everything? and it happened right out of the box. Now if it was a normal fix adjustment I would have caught it, and I get its not worth the time, but I got pissed with every other "adjustment" then a gallon of locktite on everything that moves, then modifications, and the list goes on..... Now there are a few schools of thought and keep in mind I'm 30+ year turbine machinist so tools and the such are like breathing,, With my issue why didn't I just pick up my sockets and drivers and remove the carb, then drill out the set screws that were installed (so they could beat the EPA and get the units in the USA instead of spec-ing out a carb compliant model for another $12), then use my carb needle cleaner kit on the float system to see If there's potentially some debris stuck in a needle valve or torqued float valve in the bowl housing, then rebuild then reinstall and tune with another 2hrs out of my day,,ya,,NO!!! CALL THEM! you paid for a new functioning unit, and yes I get that compared to the cost of a fully R&D/engineered/time tested unit ours are pretty much free but that doesn't mean they're off the hook for a bit of responsibility, and yes I again understand we love to tinker and fix and modify and so on...but fact remains, you paid for a functioning new unit and when they told you the price, you paid the whole amount and they got all of it, now they need to give you at the least a fully functioning unit. I'll step off my soapbox now,,, and I hope I put some fire under your keister to hold them to their end of the bargain! PS- I have 3 with no regrets and torture mine to no end!
	1

05-09-2018, 06:05 PM	#34
Darth Racer Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: MD Posts: 558	I second what 2LZ stated. Great upgrade for the money.... My Rhino pepped right up with it installed.
	1

05-13-2018, 12:21 PM	#36
Computek Join Date: May 2018 Location: Central MS Posts: 29	Adding insult to injury on the Rhino carburetors. The second unit has a stuck slide. There is some kind of glue substance in the bore. I had a hell of a time getting the slide out. Going to see if acetone will get it out and then WD-40 the slide and see if it frees up. Glad I did not try to start this one prior to checking operation!!
	0

05-21-2018, 11:27 AM	#37
Mudflap Join Date: Sep 2014 Posts: 1,870	Got the new axle from Partskit but looks like the bearings fell out of the damaged box. They evidently just tossed the axle and bearings in a box with no packing to keep it from bouncing around and poking holes in the box. Also I noticed that the right side hub splines are slowly being damaged by being pushed too far onto the axle. I'll make a support tube to slip over the axle like I did on the ATA250D.
	1

05-24-2018, 05:33 PM	#41
Darth Racer Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: MD Posts: 558	I just used a piece of 1" conduit pipe. Mudflap made me do it No problems and a cheap easy mod to do.
	0

08-26-2018, 11:15 AM	#42
Mudflap Join Date: Sep 2014 Posts: 1,870	Finally got around to checking gas mileage on my Rhino, 57 mpg. Rode from camp at 1600 feet to fire lookout at 6000 feet and back on gravel forest service roads with lots of ups and downs. Nearly all at 15 to 20 mph in second and third gear.
	2

08-29-2018, 08:12 AM	#43
Mudflap Join Date: Sep 2014 Posts: 1,870	About 1/4 mile into a planned very long ride I stopped to look out over the lake and noticed a hot oil smell. Looked down to see my boot dripping with oil. One of the oil cooler lines had pulled off the barbed fitting on the valve cover pumping out about a pint of oil. Rode back to camp, reattached the hose, topped up the oil, and continued the ride. Now my boot definitely won't rust.
	1

08-29-2018, 08:32 AM	#44
Paul2 Join Date: Jun 2017 Posts: 81	If you have a witness you can sue the boot company for mental anguish, sorry I'm from MA.
	0