Wtb pre jetted carb for tbr7

Csteven2003 · 07-29-2021, 03:44 AM

So this may sound ridiculous but I am on my 3rd carburetor and just not happy with the results I'm getting. I have only had the bike a few weeks and thought I had everything I needed before bike arrived. The first carb had a mixture screw that was hard to turn. I then opened up factory one and got it running good but it would not idle. Third carb is serviceable with a 110 in it but neither of my pilot jet kits I bought fit. It does a lot of cracking and popping when downshifting but acceleration is good. Idle is a little erratic. I am at sea level and there are no other mods. I'm tired of buying the wrong thing or junk. If anyone has a spare they could throw together I would love to buy it. Thanks and sorry for the run on sentences and paragraphs. Lol

Bruces · 07-29-2021, 05:24 PM

How many miles on your bike ?what did you set your valve clearances to ?

Csteven2003 · 07-29-2021, 11:53 PM

Have maybe 50 miles. Set exhaust and intake at .003

Plump Kibbles · 07-31-2021, 05:43 PM

https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Ca...7766912&sr=8-6

This is the one I use, dropped in a 120 main, left the 42 slow, and moved the needle position up one slot. Kinda had the same result as you - are you using a paper filter or an oiled foam type filter? When I got my TwinAir oiled filter, all backfiring and pops magically went away. Waiting for my cat delete pipe to come in, but that one I listed should be just fine. No issues with the new one so far - though my previous Chinese PZ30 clone did kind of fall apart. This one has "Japan" stamped on the side; so at least it's of Japanese bike quality lol

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are the jets, main only. If you want some slow jets which you shouldn't need to change, you can also get the same Mikuni slow jets. If you do get this carb, the jets are loose from the factory so pop open the bulb and swap jets or whatever, then snug them down nice'n tight. This one, I can get to the mix screw and not have to take the carb off to adjust. With the 120 main 42 slow, I'm at 1 3/4 turns out on the mix. Try 1 1/2 turns to start, then go a quarter turn more if need be. You can also raise the idle, and listen for the highest RPM rev when backing the mix out - just pay attention to how many turns lol Once you get it to rev highest backing out the mix, that should be the right fuel / air ratio. Getting the mix right is a pain in the butt, man. You may need to move the needle one spot, depends on how throttle response is on idle blip and with 3/4 to WOT. I skipped the needle last carb and man, is there a difference in throttle response now. I'm not holding the throttle wide open to get 55-60MPH steady, instead it's more like 3/4 to keep it paced. None of the stock carbs come tuned like you want and depending on you elevation, may be too lean as well. You'll get it man, took me about 3 - 4 tries before getting it right. Idle will settle as you break it in though, so it may dance around and raise after a few rides. Just drop it down when it does, it's getting worked in and springs and everything are settling. Good luck, brother!

Csteven2003 · 08-02-2021, 02:55 AM

That is the carb that I am currently using. I wonder if the jet in mine is a 42? I guess the next time I have it off I will check. I am currently still using stock air cleaner. The airfilter that came with this kit wouldn't fit without removing old airbox. Is replacing air filter / box mod I've read about a good idea? I really appreciate your feedback. I have probably unbolted and bolted carbs up 15 times already. Lol. It's probably pretty good where it is just always feel it could be better. I'll give it some miles to settle in and reevaluate. Thanks again!

Plump Kibbles · 08-02-2021, 03:02 PM

No worries man!

The stock stuff should be just fine, just the filter is what makes the difference. Which by the way, what style of filter do you have? Mine runs the ones for the YZ450s - https://www.amazon.com/Twin-Air-1522...7924713&sr=8-5

If yours looks like that one it should work just fine - and if not there should be an option for your style.

Yeah - removing all that stuff I had to do as well; and ended up going back to stock because without the box, the electronics could be exposed to moisture if I hit a big puddle. Didn't want to go through that, so I went back lol

If you have the SAI stuff still on it, kind of emissions, you can remove it to get a little more but not much HP. But, if you're somewhere they do smog testing you may fail.. so kind of a bummer if so - plus you need to remove the CAT as well or it could clog up and cause more problems. Removing the CAT gives it a really nice sound too

07-29-2021, 03:44 AM	#1
Csteven2003 Join Date: May 2021 Posts: 10	Wtb pre jetted carb for tbr7 So this may sound ridiculous but I am on my 3rd carburetor and just not happy with the results I'm getting. I have only had the bike a few weeks and thought I had everything I needed before bike arrived. The first carb had a mixture screw that was hard to turn. I then opened up factory one and got it running good but it would not idle. Third carb is serviceable with a 110 in it but neither of my pilot jet kits I bought fit. It does a lot of cracking and popping when downshifting but acceleration is good. Idle is a little erratic. I am at sea level and there are no other mods. I'm tired of buying the wrong thing or junk. If anyone has a spare they could throw together I would love to buy it. Thanks and sorry for the run on sentences and paragraphs. Lol
	0

07-31-2021, 05:43 PM	#4
Plump Kibbles Join Date: Sep 2020 Location: Virginia Posts: 233	https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Ca...7766912&sr=8-6 This is the one I use, dropped in a 120 main, left the 42 slow, and moved the needle position up one slot. Kinda had the same result as you - are you using a paper filter or an oiled foam type filter? When I got my TwinAir oiled filter, all backfiring and pops magically went away. Waiting for my cat delete pipe to come in, but that one I listed should be just fine. No issues with the new one so far - though my previous Chinese PZ30 clone did kind of fall apart. This one has "Japan" stamped on the side; so at least it's of Japanese bike quality lol https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 These are the jets, main only. If you want some slow jets which you shouldn't need to change, you can also get the same Mikuni slow jets. If you do get this carb, the jets are loose from the factory so pop open the bulb and swap jets or whatever, then snug them down nice'n tight. This one, I can get to the mix screw and not have to take the carb off to adjust. With the 120 main 42 slow, I'm at 1 3/4 turns out on the mix. Try 1 1/2 turns to start, then go a quarter turn more if need be. You can also raise the idle, and listen for the highest RPM rev when backing the mix out - just pay attention to how many turns lol Once you get it to rev highest backing out the mix, that should be the right fuel / air ratio. Getting the mix right is a pain in the butt, man. You may need to move the needle one spot, depends on how throttle response is on idle blip and with 3/4 to WOT. I skipped the needle last carb and man, is there a difference in throttle response now. I'm not holding the throttle wide open to get 55-60MPH steady, instead it's more like 3/4 to keep it paced. None of the stock carbs come tuned like you want and depending on you elevation, may be too lean as well. You'll get it man, took me about 3 - 4 tries before getting it right. Idle will settle as you break it in though, so it may dance around and raise after a few rides. Just drop it down when it does, it's getting worked in and springs and everything are settling. Good luck, brother! __________________ \|2020 X-Pro Titan DLX\| <-- FOR SALE!!
	0

08-02-2021, 03:02 PM	#6
Plump Kibbles Join Date: Sep 2020 Location: Virginia Posts: 233	No worries man! The stock stuff should be just fine, just the filter is what makes the difference. Which by the way, what style of filter do you have? Mine runs the ones for the YZ450s - https://www.amazon.com/Twin-Air-1522...7924713&sr=8-5 If yours looks like that one it should work just fine - and if not there should be an option for your style. Yeah - removing all that stuff I had to do as well; and ended up going back to stock because without the box, the electronics could be exposed to moisture if I hit a big puddle. Didn't want to go through that, so I went back lol If you have the SAI stuff still on it, kind of emissions, you can remove it to get a little more but not much HP. But, if you're somewhere they do smog testing you may fail.. so kind of a bummer if so - plus you need to remove the CAT as well or it could clog up and cause more problems. Removing the CAT gives it a really nice sound too __________________ \|2020 X-Pro Titan DLX\| <-- FOR SALE!!
	0

07-29-2021, 05:24 PM	#2
Bruces Join Date: May 2018 Posts: 1,566	How many miles on your bike ?what did you set your valve clearances to ?
	0

07-29-2021, 11:53 PM	#3
Csteven2003 Join Date: May 2021 Posts: 10	Have maybe 50 miles. Set exhaust and intake at .003
	0

08-02-2021, 02:55 AM	#5
Csteven2003 Join Date: May 2021 Posts: 10	That is the carb that I am currently using. I wonder if the jet in mine is a 42? I guess the next time I have it off I will check. I am currently still using stock air cleaner. The airfilter that came with this kit wouldn't fit without removing old airbox. Is replacing air filter / box mod I've read about a good idea? I really appreciate your feedback. I have probably unbolted and bolted carbs up 15 times already. Lol. It's probably pretty good where it is just always feel it could be better. I'll give it some miles to settle in and reevaluate. Thanks again!
	1