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Old 12-02-2017, 01:20 AM   #61
Megadan   Megadan is offline
 
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Most of the new cup and cone ball bearing sets have nylon cages. They may or may not have a shorter service life because of this, but they work just fine. I am usually more concerned about the quality of the material with the ball bearings and the races than the cage.

Nice job on that repair too. It looks really good.
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Old 12-02-2017, 09:54 AM   #62
Ariel Red Hunter   Ariel Red Hunter is offline
 
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Most of the new cup and cone ball bearing sets have nylon cages. They may or may not have a shorter service life because of this, but they work just fine. I am usually more concerned about the quality of the material with the ball bearings and the races than the cage.

Nice job on that repair too. It looks really good.
Yes, the quality of the balls in the caged bearing is the point, because so many less ball bearings are used with the cages than with the older "crowded row" steering head bearings. I would replace the grease that came with the bearings with the best marine grade grease you can find. And don't over tighten the bearings with the stem nut. Be careful about this, cup-and-cone bearings are sensitive to this...ARH


 
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Old 12-02-2017, 10:02 AM   #63
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Thanks guys. I only snugged it up. I'll give it a second nudge after I ride it today. I did use marine grease.
Now waiting for my new carb manifold. Should be here monday.
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Old 12-02-2017, 04:00 PM   #64
Ariel Red Hunter   Ariel Red Hunter is offline
 
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Thanks guys. I only snugged it up. I'll give it a second nudge after I ride it today. I did use marine grease.
Now waiting for my new carb manifold. Should be here monday.
The age old test for steering head bearings was to put a box under the crankcase high enough for the front wheel to clear the ground, then with the front wheel pointed straight ahead just give the 'bars a little nudge one way or tu other, and the whole front assembly flops over to the steering stop. Then go to the front wheel and try to shake it fore and aft. When you've got both conditions met, you've got the job done....ARH


 
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Old 12-02-2017, 04:12 PM   #65
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Thanks. I had heard of that.
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Old 12-02-2017, 10:04 PM   #66
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New carb manifold came today. I was hoping it would stop back sneezing thru the carb at idle. With some choke it clears up, and idles nice. The pilot is a 33. I i believe that means the pilot is a tad too small. I have the idle mix 2 turns out.
A 35 and 40 is on its way
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2006 roketa 200cc
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1972 Honda xl250
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Old 12-03-2017, 12:36 PM   #67
Ariel Red Hunter   Ariel Red Hunter is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Angus67 View Post
New carb manifold came today. I was hoping it would stop back sneezing thru the carb at idle. With some choke it clears up, and idles nice. The pilot is a 33. I i believe that means the pilot is a tad too small. I have the idle mix 2 turns out.
A 35 and 40 is on its way
I would check the float level. A too low float level can cause the same problem....ARH


 
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Old 12-03-2017, 05:44 PM   #68
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I have the float parralel to the body. I will check again though
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1972 Honda xl250
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Old 12-03-2017, 08:53 PM   #69
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I have the float parralel to the body. I will check again though
You can also raise the float level, a hair at a time, and re-tune the idle adjustment leaner, if necessary. If you don't over do it, it will give a little "shot" of gas when you crack the throttle...ARH


 
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Old 12-04-2017, 10:36 PM   #70
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I checked the float level with the clear tube method, and is about 5mm below the bowl flange. Should be good? Pilots are on the way. I have a 35, 38 and a 40 coming. It has a 33 now, and with the choke just barely engaged, im thinking the 35 will be the one. Im 2 turns out on the mix screw.
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2006 roketa 200cc
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2x 1980 xs650, 1 is a café, other is a chopper/brat
1972 Honda xl250
2x early 90's Honda rf600 parts bikes
more mc junk laying around.


 
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Old 12-05-2017, 03:30 AM   #71
Megadan   Megadan is offline
 
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Do you get any light throttle stumble or hesitation?
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Old 12-05-2017, 08:52 AM   #72
Angus67   Angus67 is offline
 
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With the choke engaged for smooth idle, it runs fine. If th choke is off, it back sneeze thru the carb. I have the valves set at .003 for both
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2006 roketa 200cc
1971 Yamaha xs650
2x 1980 xs650, 1 is a café, other is a chopper/brat
1972 Honda xl250
2x early 90's Honda rf600 parts bikes
more mc junk laying around.


 
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Old 12-05-2017, 09:08 AM   #73
Ariel Red Hunter   Ariel Red Hunter is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Angus67 View Post
With the choke engaged for smooth idle, it runs fine. If th choke is off, it back sneeze thru the carb. I have the valves set at .003 for both
Could you still have a tiny vacuum leak? I've had to squirt oil on the various parts/connections to find the leak before...ARH


 
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Old 12-05-2017, 02:09 PM   #74
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I may. I’ll check with a unlit propane torch tonight
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2006 roketa 200cc
1971 Yamaha xs650
2x 1980 xs650, 1 is a café, other is a chopper/brat
1972 Honda xl250
2x early 90's Honda rf600 parts bikes
more mc junk laying around.


 
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Old 12-05-2017, 03:45 PM   #75
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Do you have the stock air box or aftermarket pod filter?

If you have a pod filter, you might want to try and buy some kind of hose that fits your carb/filter to bring the filter away from the carb a bit, helps straighten/slow the airflow to get things working properly on some of the more picky engines/carbs
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