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Old 08-05-2009, 02:24 AM   #16
TurboT   TurboT is offline
 
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Hi Moe,

Welcome.

Just a couple questions to try to help you.

Do you have the front brake assembly on your quad as well?

When you slide the bushings onto the spindle do they slide freely all the way in or do they grab on the spindle making them difficult to move?

Can you spin the bearings inside the wheel hubs freely, or do they feel sticky?


 
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Old 08-14-2009, 10:12 PM   #17
waynev   waynev is offline
 
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Just wanna say thanks for this thread, i just got my son's 50cc quad together today and your first post was my assembly guide and all went very well. My quad came with the front brakes, they were a bit tricky to setup but a small bend on the arm where the cable goes in was enough to keep the lines of the wheels.
The front brake light switch wiring had come unplugged and the LR axle spacer was a little short but that was my only small issues.
Thanks once again for making this assembly very painless.


 
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Old 08-14-2009, 10:36 PM   #18
TurboT   TurboT is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waynev
Just wanna say thanks for this thread, i just got my son's 50cc quad together today and your first post was my assembly guide and all went very well. My quad came with the front brakes, they were a bit tricky to setup but a small bend on the arm where the cable goes in was enough to keep the lines of the wheels.
The front brake light switch wiring had come unplugged and the LR axle spacer was a little short but that was my only small issues.
Thanks once again for making this assembly very painless.
Hi waynev,

Glad you found the post helpful. Sometimes some additional washers are required to ensure proper spacing on the wheels/cotter pins. Glad to hear your assembly wasn't too troublesome.

Please ensure you check over your quad for other loose bolts and try not to let your son rely on the front brakes too much, I'm not a fan of the system, tha back brake works very well to stop the quad.
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Old 08-15-2009, 10:45 AM   #19
waynev   waynev is offline
 
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Yeah a personally don't really like the front brake system also, for a beginner grabing the front brake might also lead to pushing the throttle, i will teach him the rear brake. I have the throttle limiter right in but it doesn't give quite enough torque on takeoff so i think i'll CNC out a new gear about 2 or 3 teeth bigger which will help takeoff and limit the speed better.
I also noticed in the earlier post about the bolts missing nuts on the front brake, if it's the ones i'm thinking about no nut was needed as that bolt is only used as an anti rotation pin for the drum assembly, i guess a nylock would help it from ever falling out, but i don't think you would want to tighten it right up.
Removing the oil was a pain as the drain plug cannot be removed without removing the foot rest support, i tried taking out that springloaded plug but hardly any oil came out, i ended up removing the dipstick and turning the quad on it's side, not too much oil cam out but i put just over 1/2 L back in so i think it will be ok.


 
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Old 08-15-2009, 11:57 AM   #20
Weldangrind   Weldangrind is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waynev
I have the throttle limiter right in but it doesn't give quite enough torque on takeoff so i think i'll CNC out a new gear about 2 or 3 teeth bigger which will help takeoff and limit the speed better.
You caught my attention with that comment. When you say "CNC out a new gear", which gear are you referring to?

Quote:
Originally Posted by waynev
Removing the oil was a pain as the drain plug cannot be removed without removing the foot rest support, i tried taking out that springloaded plug but hardly any oil came out, i ended up removing the dipstick and turning the quad on it's side, not too much oil cam out but i put just over 1/2 L back in so i think it will be ok.
Is the frame under the drain plug a solid welded piece, or is it removable? Could the frame be easily modified to create a free space for the drain plug? Could an existing frame tube be "formed" to clear the drain plug?
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Old 08-15-2009, 03:28 PM   #21
TurboT   TurboT is offline
 
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There isn't much oil in them when they are shipped, so not much comes out initially anyway, and I think the 50cc only hold .5 a litre anyhow.

W&G I`m not sure how it would be modified, I guess anything is possible. There is a solid cross member `pipe`directly below the drain plug on the 50cc, and I believe there is a bolt, and rubber dampener piece below it as well. It doesn`t look like the bolt would turn out all the way, and it`s a bugger to get a wrench in there.

waynev:
You will find that once the unit breaks in some it will roll a little better on startup. Everything seems tight when they are new so getting them to start on hills is tough, then it winds up a bit too much for a novice rider on the top end.


 
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Old 08-16-2009, 09:03 AM   #22
waynev   waynev is offline
 
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Yeah, to pull that crossmember you need to remove the 4 nuts and bolts from the bottom and the 4 bolts on the footrests to remove it, i found removing the dipstick and turning it on it's side to be the easiest way, i do this with my lawnmower too.
As for the gear, i meant the rear gear, when i was building 440cc microsprints i used to CNC my own 1/4" aluminum #40 chain gears, the gear looks about 1/4" thick but it's probably not #40, so once i figure out the actual chain size i can just draw it up in AutoCAD for whatever tooth gear i want and then i will cut it out of 1/4" aluminum, since i'm going up two teeth i will probably need a longer chain and i might have to remove the rear gear guard.


 
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Old 08-16-2009, 11:53 AM   #23
Weldangrind   Weldangrind is offline
 
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waynev,

When you say that you can pull the crossmember, does that mean free access to the drain plug? If so, I'm sure that's the most effective way to drain the oil. There's a lot more going on in there than just combustion (unlike a lawnmower), so the drain plug would be more effective at getting all the schrapnel. The oil fill tube necks down to quite a small diameter, and the oil doesn't have a clear path out, even with the machine turned on its side.

That's pretty cool about your microsprint experience. The chain on these quads will likely be 420, but could also be 428.

Cheers!
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Old 08-16-2009, 01:04 PM   #24
waynev   waynev is offline
 
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A closer look at it tells me if you remove the 4 bolts from the footrests and loosen the 4 bolts on the bottom that crossmember should slid forward to reveal the oil drain plug. I will do that when the first oil change is needed.
One other thing i did was put a longer pc of tubing on the fuel cap so it now bends and goes into the open hole where the bars bolt on, i had heard stories of full fuel tanks and some gas spewing out of the that short vent line while riding, i don't think my 6 year old has aquired a taste for gas yet, lol.

Yeah the microsprint stuff was fun, we built about 40 cars out of the shop and had great sucess on the track with all of our cars, i used to run a CNC at a sign shop i worked at so i used to make the gears, brake rotors, bearing hangers, body panels and the top wings, i kinda miss it now but my friend has my old job at the sign shop so i can stil lget anything cut when needed.

Here's a link to some pic's of the car's i've built http://microsprint9.angelfire.com/microsprint_pics/


 
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Old 08-17-2009, 02:28 AM   #25
Weldangrind   Weldangrind is offline
 
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Good news on the crossmember and good call on the extended fuel cap hose.

That microsprint is killer! Did you do the TIG work yourself? Is the snowmobile drive setup actually from a snowmobile, or is it a Torq-A-Verter by comet or maybe a Shockwave (my son was on a jr. dragster team)? Is that crazy two-stroke from a snowmobile as well?

Sorry for the hijack, TurboT.
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Old 08-17-2009, 02:32 AM   #26
TurboT   TurboT is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Weldangrind

Sorry for the hijack, TurboT.
..anybody else I'd open up a can 'o whoop arse on, but for you Big D, I'll let it slide.. 8)

It's all good, always interesting reading no matter the thread on this forum.


 
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Old 08-17-2009, 02:33 AM   #27
TurboT   TurboT is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waynev
A closer look at it tells me if you remove the 4 bolts from the footrests and loosen the 4 bolts on the bottom that crossmember should slid forward to reveal the oil drain plug. I will do that when the first oil change is needed.
One other thing i did was put a longer pc of tubing on the fuel cap so it now bends and goes into the open hole where the bars bolt on, i had heard stories of full fuel tanks and some gas spewing out of the that short vent line while riding, i don't think my 6 year old has aquired a taste for gas yet, lol.

Yeah the microsprint stuff was fun, we built about 40 cars out of the shop and had great sucess on the track with all of our cars, i used to run a CNC at a sign shop i worked at so i used to make the gears, brake rotors, bearing hangers, body panels and the top wings, i kinda miss it now but my friend has my old job at the sign shop so i can stil lget anything cut when needed.

Here's a link to some pic's of the car's i've built http://microsprint9.angelfire.com/microsprint_pics/

..and this makes me want to go to Skagit and get dirty.


 
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Old 08-17-2009, 02:41 AM   #28
Weldangrind   Weldangrind is offline
 
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Yeah, Skagit! I haven't been there for two or three years. Wanna go? Next race is on Aug 29.
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Old 08-17-2009, 02:53 AM   #29
TurboT   TurboT is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Weldangrind
Yeah, Skagit! I haven't been there for two or three years. Wanna go? Next race is on Aug 29.
I'd love to but think you need a damn passport to go across the border now, which I don't have..

Am I right?


 
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Old 08-17-2009, 03:05 AM   #30
Weldangrind   Weldangrind is offline
 
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Yep, or an enhanced driver's licence. Are you due for a renewal?
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