Lifan not running right?

guttafixit · 05-17-2015, 02:46 PM

Hello, I have a 2006 LF200 GY-5 Lifan. I got it almost done. I went for a small ride around the block. It stalled and when I roll on the throttle it spits and spudders.
New mikuni carb. I moved the clip on the needle to the middle slot. Before the ride.
Should I move it 1 slot up?
New petcock in tank.
New fuel line.
New filter in the line.
New fuel.
Not sure what it is?

I will post a video when it is done uploading.
Any help would be very appreciated.

Thanks, Dan

guttafixit · 05-17-2015, 02:57 PM

http://vid935.photobucket.com/albums...P/100_4439.mp4

I can't get it to download here.

Sorry

Adjuster · 05-17-2015, 03:08 PM

Definitely carb issues. How does the exhaust smell and look. Smell rich, any black smoke? Personally I would make sure the carb is at original factory settings and then go from there. Also just for the crap of it make sure your spark plug is good and clean and if you haven't already it should be an NGK Iridium plug. Make sure no air leaks at the carb manifold connection and the engine manifold connection.

/

The Thinker · 05-17-2015, 03:11 PM

The first obvious one is make sure the choke isn't on, I've had this happen more times than I have dignity to say

To determine if the bike is running lean, I usually take off my airbox and block half the intake with some duct tape. If the issue lessens then that means the bike is running too lean, and if it gets worse the bike is too rich. Once you determine that you can adjust the needle accordingly. If the bike still doesn't run correctly, the carb could have some junk in it (I've received new carbs with debris in them before). The last possibility I see is the new carb came with jets that are too rich or too lean. If possible, ride around for a bit at 70% throttle and remove the plug to see what color it is. This can indicate the condition of the fuel to air ratio in the combustion chamber.

guttafixit · 05-17-2015, 08:37 PM

Well I'm gonna tell you a story.... And just don't laugh..

All this time running the bike I had the choke on. I thought the lever supposed to be up. Well guess not.

I even took the carb apart and used my needle cleaner to get in the small holes on both jets. Looked all clean to me.
Took it for the really first ride and went good. Got up to 60 mph (the speedo read anyways). I'm going to mount my GPS E trex 20 to really find out what I'm going. I have to find out why my front rim (I think) is bounces a little. I'll have a guy a work take it for a test ride and he will tell me. He's a bike guy.
I'll post all the pics I took while getting it on the road again later.

Thank you everyone for all the help so far.

The Thinker · 05-17-2015, 09:22 PM

Welcome to the "left choke on" club

As far as the front rim goes, my guess is its not true and has some hop. I just recently purchased a Tusk Truing Stand and Spoke Wrench by the recommendation of multiple members of this forum and had both my wheels trued up in no time. I had never trued a wheel before so it took around an hour to get myself up to speed with how everything works, but after that it was a breeze. I figured I'd rather take some extra time to teach myself to true wheels for around $85 instead of taking one wheel to a shop to do for $150.

guttafixit · 05-17-2015, 09:37 PM

Glad to be part of that club.

Maybe some day I'll do the same as you did on truing the wheels.

humanbeing · 05-17-2015, 10:19 PM

I bet wheel bearing are shoot.

Weldangrind · 05-17-2015, 10:29 PM

Guttafixit, when you opened the choke, did the idle slow down at all?

Weldangrind · 05-17-2015, 10:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by humanbeing

I bet wheel bearing are shoot.

Could be. New Japanese sealed bearings can be had for cheap at a local bearing shop. Just bring the original bearings in as samples.

guttafixit · 05-18-2015, 06:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by humanbeing

I bet wheel bearing are shoot.

Brand new wheel and bearings. Hope the bearings are good. Might of got a defect though.

guttafixit · 05-18-2015, 06:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

Guttafixit, when you opened the choke, did the idle slow down at all?

Yes

Weldangrind · 05-18-2015, 01:07 PM

Good news. I'd love to see another video of it running properly, if you have the time.

guttafixit · 05-19-2015, 08:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

Good news. I'd love to see another video of it running properly, if you have the time.

Will do after I get a inspection sticker for it. Hopefully this week.

guttafixit · 05-22-2015, 10:52 PM

Found out what the bounces in the front tire was. I didn't have the bead of the tire set right.

05-17-2015, 02:46 PM	#1
guttafixit Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Maine Posts: 170	Lifan not running right? Hello, I have a 2006 LF200 GY-5 Lifan. I got it almost done. I went for a small ride around the block. It stalled and when I roll on the throttle it spits and spudders. New mikuni carb. I moved the clip on the needle to the middle slot. Before the ride. Should I move it 1 slot up? New petcock in tank. New fuel line. New filter in the line. New fuel. Not sure what it is? I will post a video when it is done uploading. Any help would be very appreciated. Thanks, Dan
	0

05-17-2015, 03:11 PM	#4
The Thinker Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 138	The first obvious one is make sure the choke isn't on, I've had this happen more times than I have dignity to say To determine if the bike is running lean, I usually take off my airbox and block half the intake with some duct tape. If the issue lessens then that means the bike is running too lean, and if it gets worse the bike is too rich. Once you determine that you can adjust the needle accordingly. If the bike still doesn't run correctly, the carb could have some junk in it (I've received new carbs with debris in them before). The last possibility I see is the new carb came with jets that are too rich or too lean. If possible, ride around for a bit at 70% throttle and remove the plug to see what color it is. This can indicate the condition of the fuel to air ratio in the combustion chamber. Last edited by The Thinker; 05-17-2015 at 09:23 PM.
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05-17-2015, 10:19 PM	#8
humanbeing Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 2,436	I bet wheel bearing are shoot. __________________
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05-17-2015, 10:29 PM	#9
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	Guttafixit, when you opened the choke, did the idle slow down at all? __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
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05-18-2015, 01:07 PM	#13
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	Good news. I'd love to see another video of it running properly, if you have the time. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

05-17-2015, 02:57 PM	#2
guttafixit Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Maine Posts: 170	http://vid935.photobucket.com/albums...P/100_4439.mp4 I can't get it to download here. Sorry
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05-17-2015, 03:08 PM	#3
Adjuster Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Deerfield Beach FL Posts: 1,410	Definitely carb issues. How does the exhaust smell and look. Smell rich, any black smoke? Personally I would make sure the carb is at original factory settings and then go from there. Also just for the crap of it make sure your spark plug is good and clean and if you haven't already it should be an NGK Iridium plug. Make sure no air leaks at the carb manifold connection and the engine manifold connection. /
	0

05-17-2015, 08:37 PM	#5
guttafixit Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Maine Posts: 170	Well I'm gonna tell you a story.... And just don't laugh.. All this time running the bike I had the choke on. I thought the lever supposed to be up. Well guess not. I even took the carb apart and used my needle cleaner to get in the small holes on both jets. Looked all clean to me. Took it for the really first ride and went good. Got up to 60 mph (the speedo read anyways). I'm going to mount my GPS E trex 20 to really find out what I'm going. I have to find out why my front rim (I think) is bounces a little. I'll have a guy a work take it for a test ride and he will tell me. He's a bike guy. I'll post all the pics I took while getting it on the road again later. Thank you everyone for all the help so far.
	0

05-17-2015, 09:22 PM	#6
The Thinker Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 138	Welcome to the "left choke on" club As far as the front rim goes, my guess is its not true and has some hop. I just recently purchased a Tusk Truing Stand and Spoke Wrench by the recommendation of multiple members of this forum and had both my wheels trued up in no time. I had never trued a wheel before so it took around an hour to get myself up to speed with how everything works, but after that it was a breeze. I figured I'd rather take some extra time to teach myself to true wheels for around $85 instead of taking one wheel to a shop to do for $150.
	0

05-17-2015, 09:37 PM	#7
guttafixit Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Maine Posts: 170	Glad to be part of that club. Maybe some day I'll do the same as you did on truing the wheels.
	0

05-22-2015, 10:52 PM	#15
guttafixit Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Maine Posts: 170	Found out what the bounces in the front tire was. I didn't have the bead of the tire set right.
	0