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01-31-2019, 09:49 PM
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#1 |
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Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 74
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Thanks for the info and the kind words, I bought some permatex ultra copper right after I started this project, but wasn't aware it was sensor-safe. Well, there goes that worry... for now.
The intake clocking flange arrived and fits beautifully. At first I tried mounting the manifold pointing out toward the right side of the bike, but either the throttle cable mounting point hit the bottom of the frame, the clutch cable was pushing and rubbing on the injector housing, or the air filter would have gotten in the way of where the oil cooler will live. Right now I have it pointing out the left side, perpendicular to the bike frame and engine. The wires will be tied up to the frame on either the left or right side, so they won't get in the way of the throttle operation. The throttle cable itself does sit at an odd and possibly uncomfortable position; it exits the throttle body pointing about... 2'clock, but then goes through a 90 degree bend and points downward toward the cylinder head. It's difficult to explain, you can kind of see what I mean in one of the pictures. Everything else has plenty of room around it, the idle air screw, the worm-drive clamp for the air filter, the fuel injector hose barb and electrical connector. The air filter even clears the red side-fairings. A note on the air filter though - as you might be able to tell in one of the pictures, the air filter that comes with the 190 will not fit on the TB from aliexpress, the fiter is too big. The filter size that the VM22 uses DOES fit, I think it is 38mm, but I'm not sure. I'm going to be using the filter that I used with the VM22 when it was on the 125. The stock bolts that are used to mount the intake manifold to the intake port are too long to use with the clocking flange, well one of them will be. One of the bolt holes on the intake manifold has more distance in the manifold to go through. I probably didn't explain that very well. What happens is one of the bolts will fasten as expected, but the other one bottoms out on the cooling fins before clamping the manifold down. No big problem, just grind and cut away some of the bolt and it'll be right. I bolted the coolant (cylinder in out case) temp sensor to a hole near the bottom of the cylinder jug that was already threaded. I assume there mounting points are for those chin fairings I see on some of the croms. I'm going to wrap the wire in something to protect it from the heat and abrasion of rubbing against the engine case. Since I had already run a cable up to the dashboard area with an LED indicator for the wideband, I thought I might as well run the LED indicator that the ECU has up there as well. Not much to explain here; I just lengthened the wire that the LED was connected to. I connected all the electrical connectors except for the fuel pump and the wideband controller, connected a battery to the bike, connected a laptop to the ECU, and turned on the switch. Woo Hoo! No magic blue smoke! MAP, manifold temp, cylinder temp, throttle position, battery voltage, and both relays connected to the fuel pump enable signal worked and displayed correct readings. One word of note that I should mention - make sure the wire that connects the CDI to the ignition coil is connected to the coil and not disconnected or touching anything that is grounded to the bike's battery. Sweaty hands, dry air, and high voltage mix together with... shocking results. If you touch or hold the output from the CDI while grounded, you will become the coil and spark plug. Another way to say this is don't include yourself in the ignition circuit! There are only one or two somewhat big things still to do, but lots more tiny things to do and some things to buy or think if I really need to buy them. So far I have to:
Within the next few days is the time I'll start to wind down on the posting because there won't be much to post about, but rest assured I want this project to continue and be completed as much as you. |
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02-02-2019, 06:25 PM
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#2 |
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Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 74
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Done:
Tomorrow will probably be oil cooler install and oil change. |
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02-04-2019, 06:22 PM
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#3 |
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Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 74
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I tidied up the wiring and somewhat-finalized the location of the wiring harness, connectors, wire and cable routing, etc. The clutch cable, as it was with the 125, had to be routed between the red fairings and the white gas tank fairing. I tried my best to get every wire or connector that would be just sitting against anything else in a corrugated cable sleeve, spiral strain relief, wrapped in electrical tape, or zip-tied securely in place so the vibrations from the engine won't abrade through the wire's insulator. Everything seems to fit inside the fairings so far. The oil cooler mounted with only one little issue. I used the bracket that the horn was originally mounted to for the oil cooler, I remounted the horn on the bottom triple clamp. If I bolted the oil cooler on in the order of oil cooler -> mounting bracket -> nut; then the bottom triple clamp would hit the sides of the cooler at full lock in either direction. I ended up bolting it up in the order of mounting bracket -> metal spacer -> oil cooler -> nut. It now clears the triple clamp with about a 1/4" on either side. I changed the oil. Not much to say here. I used 700mL of valvoline premium blue 8600 es 15w-40. 600mL is the usual oil change capacity (as read from a daytona anima 190fdx engine manual), 700mL is the full capacity, but the oil cooler and lines are empty. I'll check the levels after I get a chance to start the engine, or at least turn it over. I don't know if I mentioned this in a previous post, but one thing you have to do with a swap to the 190 is cut/grind away one of the rear brake arm return spring mounting tabs. I did that plus about another 1mm from the arm right where it would touch the case. I cleaned and painted the area I ground down with some "toyota white" touch up paint I had. I hadn't thought of this until a few days ago, with the ECU directly controlling the CDI and thus the entire ignition system, the kill switch on the handlebars isn't going to do anything. I looked online to see how the kill switch is usually wired up and it was different than what I though it was going to be, in a good way. I thought that the kill switch 1. interrupted the signal from the CDI to the ignition coil and 2. did that by just breaking the connection from those two points. It turns out that the kill switch grounds out one lead of the trigger coil inside the stator cover, and since the other lead is grounded through the engine, there can be no more signal from trigger coil, no more spark. This meant that I just had to make a "Y" fitting for the blue wire that was coming out of the engine's stator cover, one end going to the ECU as it was before and one going to the blue wire's terminal in the wiring harness' stator connector. Another thing that I assume uses that signal is the tachometer in the dashboard. I'd hate not having that. In a previous post, I said the exhaust I bought for the bike would just barely clear the starter motor. I was wrong. It does NOT clear the starter motor. I see a few options here. 1. Get a piece of exhaust pipe welded to the part that goes in the exhaust port on the engine. This would be difficult because any welding/automotive/bike shop probably won't have the size and thickness of pipe I need in stock, and they would, unless they can decrease the size of an exhaust pipe, be butt-welding two pieces together and they'd have to weld it from the inside. 2. Cut the exhaust at a given location and weld in an extension. If I, or they, can cut the exhaust square enough, the ends of the extension could be expanded so there wouldn't have to be a butt-joint, but a (I think) lap joint. I would have to get the exhaust painted or coated again if I did that. 3. Use the old exhaust from the 125, somewhat gutted or a hybrid franken-pipe with the muffler canister part from the new exhaust on the old pipe. 4. Buy a new exhaust and eat the stupid tax. 5. Heat and bend the exhaust pipe. If worse comes to worst... 6. Remove the electric starter, use the kick starter (I'd have to grind away some of the right rear set for fitment). I have heard that the starter chains on these engines have more-common-than-it-should-be rate of failure. Struggling to get the bike started while tuning it to even be able to start isn't something I'm looking forward to... Decisions, decisions... Oh, and I might have to remove the right passenger's footpeg to clear the muffler. No big deal; I'm never going to ride two-up on this thing. The bolt just to the right of the engine temperature sensor looks suspiciously similar to one on a 139qmb engine that I installed an oil cooler/filter on. I think I can unbolt that... bolt and there might be an oil return passage behind it. I can use that threaded hole for a much better engine temperature reading or to get an auxiliary oil temperature reading. I looked at the exploded parts diagram for the 190, but it doesn't show what is behind the bolt, and it just refers to the bolt as a bolt, nothing like a "external oil sensing port" or something that easy to decipher. I think the MAP/air temp/throttle position sensor might have a small air leak. If I suck or blow through one end of the throttle body and completely block the other, air manages to enter or escape respectively. The bottom of the sensor (the part that faces the throttle body) looks like it may not have been sealed around the edges. I'm hesitant to seal it up completely, because it may need some form of atmospheric pressure inside to work correctly. I guess I can try sealing it with something easy to remove, like silicone, and see if everything still works. Last edited by glavey; 02-04-2019 at 06:59 PM. |
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02-05-2019, 12:16 AM
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#4 | |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
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Quote:
Your firefly-in-a-test-tube comment cracked me up.
__________________
Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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02-05-2019, 11:36 AM
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#5 |
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Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 74
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According to permatex's webpage on their ultra copper product it is sensor safe.
I actually stole and re-worded that joke from jeremy clarkson on top gear - he called the headlights on a truck he was driving "glow worms in jam jars". |
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