Installed a one finger clutch lever. Need a little more pull on clutch.

SirKng · 10-06-2020, 09:12 AM

Hey all. I just installed a one finger clutch lever on my SSR XF250. It seems to be working the way I have it right now. But I need a little bit more disengagement on the clutch. It doesn't have as much as I would like. I have the clutch cable adjusted to almost at the end at the engine side. My question is if I can re-clock the arm on the engine just a little bit to get a little bit more disengagement. I only need about a 1/16" or so just by eyeballing it compared to the stock lever.

**JerryHawk250** · 10-06-2020, 09:22 AM

That's what i would do.

franque · 10-06-2020, 09:22 AM

I'm not sure what you mean? More disengagement, as in a longer cable, effectively? You have everything turned in all of the way to make it the longest effective length possible?

SirKng · 10-06-2020, 09:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by franque

I'm not sure what you mean? More disengagement, as in a longer cable, effectively? You have everything turned in all of the way to make it the longest effective length possible?

Shorter actually. I've pulled as much slack as I can out of the cable as I can. It works but I do not have much freeplay at the lever. I basically need some free play while being able to fully disengage the clutch without bottoming out on the grip like the old lever. The old lever would bottom out too but I did not need to pull it as far to disengage completely. If that makes more sense.

franque · 10-06-2020, 10:00 AM

It's not really clear to me, you're saying two contradictory things. Freeplay refers to the amount of slack in the cable at the bar.

If you're not pulling enough cable for the clutch to work properly, you have too much freeplay and you need a shorter cable, effectively. If it's pulling more than needed (hence not enough freeplay), just turn the adjuster in.

You need a modicum of freeplay to be able to run the bike with out the clutch slipping/being partially disengaged.

Which one is it?

SirKng · 10-06-2020, 10:19 AM

I have all the free play adjusted out at the lever to get the clutch to work properly. With the correct amount of free play at the lever the clutch lever does not pull the clutch far enough even if I bottom out the lever on the grip. I need to get the free play back and have full clutch operation as well without needing to bottom out the lever on the grip. I think I need a shorter cable but I can't find one right now. I want to know if re-clocking the clutch arm on the engine will be able to effectively "shorten" the cable and allow me to have correct free play as well as full clutch operation.

franque · 10-06-2020, 10:27 AM

It could work, is it on a splined arm? Also, is there an adjustment where the clutch cable goes to the engine?

SirKng · 10-06-2020, 11:27 AM

Yes. The arm looks like it is splined. My service manual states to reference how the arm is installed when removing it. There is an adjustment at the engine too. I had to max that out too.

franque · 10-06-2020, 11:57 AM

If it's splined, I'd say go for it.

SirKng · 10-06-2020, 01:58 PM

Two votes for re-clocking the arm. Will report with results after I get it done!

SirKng · 10-06-2020, 08:04 PM

So I tried re-clocking it. It did allow me to get the free play at the lever but it still wasn't working right. Then the threads inside the perch stripped out after installing it on the bar... I'm gonna return it. I decided to cut my stock lever to use with two fingers. It seems to work pretty good that way too. I wanted to get the lever to work. It had pretty smooth action and isn't sloppy like my stock lever... Oh well.

10-06-2020, 09:12 AM	#1
SirKng Join Date: Apr 2020 Location: Eau Claire, WI Posts: 117	Installed a one finger clutch lever. Need a little more pull on clutch. Hey all. I just installed a one finger clutch lever on my SSR XF250. It seems to be working the way I have it right now. But I need a little bit more disengagement on the clutch. It doesn't have as much as I would like. I have the clutch cable adjusted to almost at the end at the engine side. My question is if I can re-clock the arm on the engine just a little bit to get a little bit more disengagement. I only need about a 1/16" or so just by eyeballing it compared to the stock lever. __________________ 2018 SSR Motorsports XF250
	0

10-06-2020, 09:22 AM	#2
JerryHawk250 Moderator Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Houma, La. Posts: 11,553	That's what i would do. __________________ 2023 Lifan Lycan 250 Chopper 2023 Venom Evader 2022 Lifan KPX250 2020 Kawasaki Vulcan S 2004 Honda ST 1300 2016 Black Hawk 250 (sold) Keihin PE30 carb,125 main,38 slow.Pod filter,ported & decked head 10:1 CR,Direct Ignition Coil,15/40Sprockets,NGK DPR8EIX-9,De-Cat,Dual Oil Cooler,Digital Cluster 2016 Cazador180 XL 2014 Coolster150 JerryHawk250.com My YouTube Channel
	2

10-06-2020, 10:19 AM	#6
SirKng Join Date: Apr 2020 Location: Eau Claire, WI Posts: 117	I have all the free play adjusted out at the lever to get the clutch to work properly. With the correct amount of free play at the lever the clutch lever does not pull the clutch far enough even if I bottom out the lever on the grip. I need to get the free play back and have full clutch operation as well without needing to bottom out the lever on the grip. I think I need a shorter cable but I can't find one right now. I want to know if re-clocking the clutch arm on the engine will be able to effectively "shorten" the cable and allow me to have correct free play as well as full clutch operation. __________________ 2018 SSR Motorsports XF250
	0

10-06-2020, 11:27 AM	#8
SirKng Join Date: Apr 2020 Location: Eau Claire, WI Posts: 117	Yes. The arm looks like it is splined. My service manual states to reference how the arm is installed when removing it. There is an adjustment at the engine too. I had to max that out too. __________________ 2018 SSR Motorsports XF250
	0

10-06-2020, 01:58 PM	#10
SirKng Join Date: Apr 2020 Location: Eau Claire, WI Posts: 117	Two votes for re-clocking the arm. Will report with results after I get it done! __________________ 2018 SSR Motorsports XF250
	1

10-06-2020, 09:22 AM	#3
franque Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: Marseille, France -> Conakry, Guinea Posts: 1,481	I'm not sure what you mean? More disengagement, as in a longer cable, effectively? You have everything turned in all of the way to make it the longest effective length possible?
	0

10-06-2020, 10:00 AM	#5
franque Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: Marseille, France -> Conakry, Guinea Posts: 1,481	It's not really clear to me, you're saying two contradictory things. Freeplay refers to the amount of slack in the cable at the bar. If you're not pulling enough cable for the clutch to work properly, you have too much freeplay and you need a shorter cable, effectively. If it's pulling more than needed (hence not enough freeplay), just turn the adjuster in. You need a modicum of freeplay to be able to run the bike with out the clutch slipping/being partially disengaged. Which one is it?
	0

10-06-2020, 10:27 AM	#7
franque Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: Marseille, France -> Conakry, Guinea Posts: 1,481	It could work, is it on a splined arm? Also, is there an adjustment where the clutch cable goes to the engine?
	0

10-06-2020, 11:57 AM	#9
franque Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: Marseille, France -> Conakry, Guinea Posts: 1,481	If it's splined, I'd say go for it.
	1

10-06-2020, 08:04 PM	#11
SirKng Join Date: Apr 2020 Location: Eau Claire, WI Posts: 117	So I tried re-clocking it. It did allow me to get the free play at the lever but it still wasn't working right. Then the threads inside the perch stripped out after installing it on the bar... I'm gonna return it. I decided to cut my stock lever to use with two fingers. It seems to work pretty good that way too. I wanted to get the lever to work. It had pretty smooth action and isn't sloppy like my stock lever... Oh well. __________________ 2018 SSR Motorsports XF250
	0