EGL A17 300cc

oouthere · 05-12-2021, 08:43 AM

I have had my EGL A17 300cc for about 2 months now, ran about 6 gallons of gas through her and here's my opinion of the bike. Though the negatives number more than the positives, it is a very good bike for the woods! She was $3,999 to my door using wholesaleatv. Once you get the bugs worked out (i.e. jetting, suspension setup, alignments, etc) she is a very capable and fun bike! If you shop around, a top end can be had for around $150 which includes cylinder. Trying doing that to a CRF, YZ, or KTM! The motor has proven itself with some owners in different vehicles having hundreds of hours on a top end so I expect she will be reliable.

The good:

Runs first hit everytime, no fighting, no grumbling, just runs practically perfect! She comes with two additional pilot jets, two main jets, and a needle.

Perfect woods power, not to little, not to much (I've owned YZ450F/WR450F/YZ250F/etc). Outstanding bottom end torque. Easily lobs the front skyward to get over limbs, logs, mud holes, etc. Not enough power to launch you into the unknown when you start getting tired

Has an ultra lite battery, it feels like you are holding an empty battery case!
The brake and clutch handles are unlike any I have every seen! They not only spring forward to avoid breaking, they also spring up and down for the same reason...Wow!!!

The risers are solid so you do not break/bend them during wrecks which leads to a lot of extra repair money. The handlebars are fat bars and of high quality, withstanding 4 major wrecks so far without needing changing.

The graphics look nice and are very durable, no issues so far.

CRF250R (2016) plastics and graphics fit, also the wheel bearings, rear sprocket, etc all fit. Even the chain is a 520/116 links like the CRF.
Handles very good in the woods!

Excellent front braking power and modulation! It felt spongy while assembling the bike, but feels fantastic while riding.
Already equipped with a cooling fan and overflow bottle.

The bad:

She is a top heavy track bike, not so noticeable in the woods but only when laying it over hard going through corners.

She is not a good combination track/trail bike due to power. I'm 6'2" @ 235lbs and she's only pushing about 26hp-27hp at the back tire (calculated using the SSR NC250 version on a dyno at 22.5hp).

The original fuel tank cap was not vented and caused the bike to die. There is a tube out of the top on the cap but it had a solid rubber gasket coving it. If you remove the gasket then there is no good sealing surface for the cap and it can slosh onto the tank while riding.

The rear subframe was not aligned from the factory, off by probably 1.5". You can unbolt it and force it into alignment.

The rear tire hash alignment marks are incorrect. The rear kept fish tailing to the right side and kicking hard when hitting a root. I pulled the tank and ran a wire from the front center tank bolt aligning it over the tire at the axle. It was off by about 3/8". Once aligned the fishtailing stopped but haven't ran it in the woods again.

The right subframe lower bolt would not tighten while trying to align the subframe, I used a backing nut with a longer bolt (which I do not like).

The rear brake is weak, but the motor is able to take care of most rear braking.

The rear brake pedal is very weak, it bent severely during the first wreck.

The rear shock squeaks loudly. The intention is to install a 2009 era CRF450R or CRF250R shock.

The front is heavy with the original KKE forks, causing it to dip by the second whoop. I was unable to work out the issue with adjustments. It now has 2003 CRF450R forks installed but have yet to hit whoops to see if that cured the problem. The original forks were 12lbs each, the CRF forks are 9lbs each, I believe the SSR's are 15-16lbs each.

Let me know if you have any questions!

05-12-2021, 08:43 AM	#1
oouthere Join Date: Jun 2018 Location: Wiggins, MS Posts: 44	EGL A17 300cc I have had my EGL A17 300cc for about 2 months now, ran about 6 gallons of gas through her and here's my opinion of the bike. Though the negatives number more than the positives, it is a very good bike for the woods! She was $3,999 to my door using wholesaleatv. Once you get the bugs worked out (i.e. jetting, suspension setup, alignments, etc) she is a very capable and fun bike! If you shop around, a top end can be had for around $150 which includes cylinder. Trying doing that to a CRF, YZ, or KTM! The motor has proven itself with some owners in different vehicles having hundreds of hours on a top end so I expect she will be reliable. The good: Runs first hit everytime, no fighting, no grumbling, just runs practically perfect! She comes with two additional pilot jets, two main jets, and a needle. Perfect woods power, not to little, not to much (I've owned YZ450F/WR450F/YZ250F/etc). Outstanding bottom end torque. Easily lobs the front skyward to get over limbs, logs, mud holes, etc. Not enough power to launch you into the unknown when you start getting tired Has an ultra lite battery, it feels like you are holding an empty battery case! The brake and clutch handles are unlike any I have every seen! They not only spring forward to avoid breaking, they also spring up and down for the same reason...Wow!!! The risers are solid so you do not break/bend them during wrecks which leads to a lot of extra repair money. The handlebars are fat bars and of high quality, withstanding 4 major wrecks so far without needing changing. The graphics look nice and are very durable, no issues so far. CRF250R (2016) plastics and graphics fit, also the wheel bearings, rear sprocket, etc all fit. Even the chain is a 520/116 links like the CRF. Handles very good in the woods! Excellent front braking power and modulation! It felt spongy while assembling the bike, but feels fantastic while riding. Already equipped with a cooling fan and overflow bottle. The bad: She is a top heavy track bike, not so noticeable in the woods but only when laying it over hard going through corners. She is not a good combination track/trail bike due to power. I'm 6'2" @ 235lbs and she's only pushing about 26hp-27hp at the back tire (calculated using the SSR NC250 version on a dyno at 22.5hp). The original fuel tank cap was not vented and caused the bike to die. There is a tube out of the top on the cap but it had a solid rubber gasket coving it. If you remove the gasket then there is no good sealing surface for the cap and it can slosh onto the tank while riding. The rear subframe was not aligned from the factory, off by probably 1.5". You can unbolt it and force it into alignment. The rear tire hash alignment marks are incorrect. The rear kept fish tailing to the right side and kicking hard when hitting a root. I pulled the tank and ran a wire from the front center tank bolt aligning it over the tire at the axle. It was off by about 3/8". Once aligned the fishtailing stopped but haven't ran it in the woods again. The right subframe lower bolt would not tighten while trying to align the subframe, I used a backing nut with a longer bolt (which I do not like). The rear brake is weak, but the motor is able to take care of most rear braking. The rear brake pedal is very weak, it bent severely during the first wreck. The rear shock squeaks loudly. The intention is to install a 2009 era CRF450R or CRF250R shock. The front is heavy with the original KKE forks, causing it to dip by the second whoop. I was unable to work out the issue with adjustments. It now has 2003 CRF450R forks installed but have yet to hit whoops to see if that cured the problem. The original forks were 12lbs each, the CRF forks are 9lbs each, I believe the SSR's are 15-16lbs each. Let me know if you have any questions!
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