New 2018 Hawk Prep

[kirkallen143]

Howdy fellers,

Going on 3 weeks having the Hawk and prepping everything I can think of from the vast knowledge here on the forum. This is what I've done so far (not in any particular order)
--change oil
--adjusted valve lash (cold engine) 0.002" intake and 0.003" exhaust
--stock carb mods (2 shims on needle, drilled pilot to 0.018", 110 main, A/F screw 1 1/2 turns out)
--checked most all bolts and used lock-tite
--cleaned rotors/calipers
--air box mod (with a few more 1/2" holes drilled around opening)
--K&N filter (oil-less)
--gutted catalytic converter, drilled 1/4" holes in first baffle plate in muffler(might drill into 2nd baffle plate, we'll see)
--greased both axle shafts and swingarm shaft
--added more grease to bearings in front and rear hubs
--cut/trimmed chain slider
--LED lights front and rear, blinkers also with LED flasher
--new spark plug DR8EIX #2202 with 0.028" gap
--greased both ends of the speedo cable and oiled cable
--oiled clutch cable
--checked spokes and trued rims
--added a few personal touch items like the burrito tube, machete, small shovel, large tool bag on top of rear fender, trimmed off hump on seat foam and gonna add one layer of carpet under padding on top of foam.

Off the top of my head, that's all I can think of. Still waiting on my 40T rear sprocket to come in and the bike should be ready to ride. I'll keep the 15T counter sprocket for now, if need more highway gearing, a 16T or 17T is an easy change.

I have done three 10 minute heat cycles (waiting for a complete cool-down of engine before the next) with the engine just idling, of course a few blips of the throttle, too. I will say, this is one smooth running engine, and a very quiet valve-train, sounds like a "sewing machine". Can't wait to get it on the road/dirt!

The forks will be the last to do, I know they have to be done with me weighing in at 225lbs. Looks like I will give 15W fork oil a try (I've also had good luck with 5W-20 full synthetic Mobil One motor oil on damper rod forks) and @ 25mm preload spacer in each leg. Start with stock oil levels/amounts and go from there adding/subtracting to my liking.

I have rambled on too long...I'll get some pics of the bike up here soon.

Have a good one,

Kirk

[Megadan]

Running those tighter clearances on the valve lash, just make sure to check them regularly for the first few hundred miles.

As far as your plug gap, you could go wider if you so desire. Many guys here run a pre-gapped DPR8EIX-9, which has a .9mm gap, aka .036" I run my Iridium Denso plug at .034 without any misfires or running issues.

I like your idea of starting with the 25mm preload spacers, but I would be ready to make a couple more based on what you measure your total rider sag to be. Aim for around 2.5 to 3" of sag with your weight fully on the bike. I am a bit heavier than you and started with 35mm, which wasn't quite enough for my heft, but worked very well for a friend of mine who is close to your weight, give or take 10lbs.

Just so you know, a 15 front and 40 rear pretty much gets you the same ratio as a 17 front 45 rear, so you might like it quite a lot.

[kirkallen143]

Well, it's been a fun start! Posted in another thread about "topping off" the fuel tank and not getting the gas cap to vent...While this is happening, I was getting a strong fuel vapor smell and heard like steam hissing. Come to find out I had fuel dripping from my tank onto a hot engine, GREAT!

I had only about a gallon of fuel for the initial start up of the bike, so I thought my first run would be to the fuel station to "top it off". Ran great going there (there are some vibes at upper rpm's, but not bad with the 15/40 sprockets at 55mph, and considering running on knobby tires front and rear). Still breaking it in (12 miles so far if odometer is accurate).

The worst part of all was draining all that new fuel back into a 5 gallon gas can. No matter what you do, IT'S GOING TO SPILL! Diagnosed the tank, the petcock was good, no leaks from the welds on the tank, then saw the leaky fuel sending unit. That o-ring/gasket, what ever it was looked like it had been chewed on by a dog as its toy. Completely shredded...

So gave CSC a call and ordered up a new unit from the TT250 (Megadan traded his out for this unit and said it works better/is a more accurate reading in his thread).

Got a few questions: the odometer is reading about 7 tenths more of each mile than what it should, but the mph is correct (checked it with a GPS). Anybody have anything on how that's right?

And the seat, it will get to ya after a few miles, and I added an extra 1" of foam on after I cut the hump out. I got one of those Walmart ATV seat cushions to try and let y'all know the outcome.

Front brake works great, rear is so-so. It might need a better cleaning job than what I gave it, don't know.

Shifts great, good luck finding neutral at a stop with the engine running. Found getting into neutral a lot better while still coasting the bike. I haven't figured out the clutch, it's OK, but I'll read some more on it.

Suspension: like the softness, but a good/even a small pot hole and the front forks will let you know they need some work. Next on the list for sure!

The engine pulls pretty good up hill with my modified muffler. I might drill more holes in the baffle plates inside muffler, or make a more free flowing spark arrestor.

Well that all I have of my 12 miles on a HAWK adventure for now...I'll keep the updates coming.

Kirk

[Cravin01]

I'm really happy you got the bike ,congratulations!

The reason I say this is you have really seemed to have done your homework. Looking at you join date it tells me you've been doing a lot of thinking about it. I think thats some kind of record to be around so long with only a few posts.

Glad you pulled the trigger and I would welcome you to the forums but looks like that's not really nessary in your case but a big congrats is!.......

What color did you get?

[JerryHawk250]

I'm with Cravin01 on this. You've done you homework. I too was a Hawk Stalker I lurked around for a few months before I got my Hawk and became a member. The speedometers on the hawk are way off and the odometer reads in kilometers. Yes kind of messed up ain't it? Just get the digital speedometer everyone else is using. Very accurate plus you have a tachometer. The engine will get smoother and shifting will get better after you get a few hundred miles on it.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by kirkallen143

Front brake works great, rear is so-so. It might need a better cleaning job than what I gave it, don't know.

Shifts great, good luck finding neutral at a stop with the engine running. Found getting into neutral a lot better while still coasting the bike. I haven't figured out the clutch, it's OK, but I'll read some more on it.

Suspension: like the softness, but a good/even a small pot hole and the front forks will let you know they need some work. Next on the list for sure!

Check the adjustment on the rear brake, it may be just slightly out of adjustment and dragging a tiny bit.

Neutral will get easier to find as you put more miles on it. The clutch adjustment will also play a big role in it. As the oil gets hot the clutch engagement will change as well, and I often have to re-adjust my clutch at the lever after riding for a bit.

With the right preload, fluid level, and oil weight, the forks can actually perform really well. Just a matter of finding the right combination for you.

[Dadbeck77]

Your list looks like my list. I have 15t/40t on mine. My bike came with 30mm spacers and I added 15mm more. just about right. Went on a ride today,up to 60 mph but who knows what that actually is. Noticed the gas smell from the tank also. Went to fill it up and got 1 gallon of 92oct for the 80 miles I had gone. No leaks as far as I can tell. 230 miles so far. Riding it 25 miles to work tomorrow.

[kirkallen143]

Quick update (and appreciate all responses):

Got sending unit from CSC (they don't fool around, great customer service) and their gasket is totally different from the original. Original is just an o-ring, CSC is like formed to fit the tank, and no leaks! Unit reads just under full at half a tank (better than reading full at an empty tank) on the original gauge cluster.

Rode it around yesterday, and with the Walmart ATV seat cover, BIG DIFFERENCE I tell you. The more I ride this bike the more I like it.

Also cut off the original spark arrestor in the muffler and just put a flat stainless steel mesh screen between cap and muffler. Someone on here did the same, can't remember, but kudos to him. The muffler tone is more throaty, but not obnoxiously loud (I have about 8ea. 1/4" holes drilled through both internal baffles of the muffler).

I'll start on the forks this weekend and give y'all an update...laters.

Kirk

[Dadbeck77]

I did the same to my muffler. It works great.

[kirkallen143]

Well, I could at least give y'all a pic of the bike...



Kirk

[Megadan]

I like the look of the stripped down rear muffler. The seat looks really good too with the hump removed and the extra foam. Definitely something I want to do in the future.

[kirkallen143]

Here's a couple more pics...





I went and ordered a new rear shock yesterday for the bike. This one is shorter at 280mm, with preload and rebound dampening adjustment. Didn't like the high rear of the bike, and with my short legs it will be a little easier to hop on. Soon as it comes in I'll get a pic for ya...

Kirk

[nickdowny]

What shock did you order?

[Dadbeck77]

I want to change mine also.

[kirkallen143]

If the link works, this is the one I ordered:


https://www.ebay.com/itm/11-280mm-Re...53.m2749.l2649